Top 20 2003 Subaru Forester - Page 7 Questions & Answers

1) Check all the vacuum hoses for a leak in the rubber hose or a hose that isn't connected. Vacuum leaks cause motors to shake and stumble on acceleration.
2) There's a plastic T connection on the back side of the engine behind and under the air cleaner box. That T connector joins together three air hoses of different sizes and is prone to breaking from heat stress. Only a Subaru dealer will have this part.
3) Even though the spark plug wires are new, you may have a bad one. Don't waste your money on cheap parts; they cost more in the long run.
Good luck!

take out the tweeder covers if you have tweeders or remove the triangle covers were the tweeders woud be ,then stuff a klittle foam in their,worked for me

In virtually all cars there is an emergency release mechanism located inside of the trunk. It's either a pull cord, or a means of twisting the release cable to remove the plunger from inside the fuel tank door. Look inside your trunk, pull back the liner if necessary, or feel around where the cable leads to the fuel tank door.

Once you diagnose the problem you will then know whether or not you will need to replace the release cable.

Go to www.subaruforester,org and do a search for clock. This is a chronic problem but if you're handy with a soldering gun you can fix it yourself.

It can be.
You must go to a mechanic with the diagnostic machine to check if there's something more causing that. But you can precheck by yourself, remove the battery cables for a few minutes and check if the llight is still on, this should clear the memory, if not, it means there's something more.

actually this is not only related to sensor but also to other relaying unit and offcourse it is minor electronic fault that can be worked out only at service station..........
hope you enjoy your ride

yes there is you need to locate the unit,usually fitted in the rear trim near tail light just have to look for it,put it in reverse with the key on to hear it,theres a vol control on the unit to adjust the volume

There is a little beeper that sits just behind the front grill close to the Subaru emblem. It makes the sound you hear when you press the remote to lock or unlock the doors. It sometimes whines for a while but eventually stops. I have had this for a couple of years and it does not appear to have caused any problems.

I really have to advise you to visit a dealer, whenever your airbag light comes on, it could indicate a computer problem, and can possibly be dangerous. Sometimes an airbag can deploy for no good reason, and i'm sure you know how frightening that could be. You should atleast get someone to hook it up to a diagnostic machine. Thank you, and sorry I couldn't tell you more.

This is something that is definitely worth it to leave to a professional. What would be worth it to do is to take the door apart yourself if you can and do want to do so and determine if the motor is indeed dead. There are a few screws and bolts that hold the plastic inner door shell in place and a lot of them are hidden but not that hard to find once you start looking. You can try word searches for your specific vehicle and some sites might go into specific detail as to where the screws/bolts are located. Once you have the inner door shell off everything should be easy to locate. Using a test light purchased from almost any parts place, test probe each electrical connector going to the window switches as well as the window motor. If the light comes on then you are getting power to the motor or the switch but the motor/switch itself is not working. If the light does not come on then you have a problem originating elsewhere. Make sure and test the light out elsewhere first to make sure it works and you know how to use it. Once you know the motor or switch is bad then you can purchase another (if you desire) and just pay the labor to have it done. It is well worth it. The scissor lift device on a lot of the automatic windows is under a lot of tension and you can easily break fingers/hands if not 100% certain what you are doing. This is one, I myself would pay to have done (and I have, it cost me $80 labor). Hope this helps.

Your throw out bearing is bad. If it was a problem in the transmission, it would not stop until the vehicle is no longer in motion. It would typically get louder as you accelerate.

you sould have the red and yello wire connected together is you are not using a factory wiring harness adapter this means you might have wires crosses

If the timing belt is broken or has lost some teeth then you will get no fire. Some models have an inspection port that you can see the belt through. Have someone try to start engine while you watch timing belt. If belt is stationary or moves in jumps then this is your problem.

could be the ignition key contact with accessories. all parts you mentioned are connected to the accessories.

wiggle the key and it might work again.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Sorry no the sending unit in your tank is bad replace it. If you are sure of amount of as you have and you know your average MPG you could wait till your tank is low so as not to waste much gas Give yourself a 3MPG reduction for error accountability.

I had the same problem...brought it back to the dealership (had an extended warranty) and they just made an adjustment. No problems since!

those are not codes those show that you didnt read instructions completely on the use of your scan tool those show that their are codes present depending on unit you either hit next or codes or enter rescan vehicle and continue to next page when those show up

It sounds like you over heated the engine and have damaged the head gasket. do not drive and have you car looked at more in detail to confirm the head gasket is indeed the problem

fuse 4 underhood fuse box and circuit breaker left end of dash