Top 20 2003 Subaru Forester - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Sounds like your in tank pump isn't working.....and you have no fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the engine. See if you can tell that it turns on when you turn the key on....I'm not familiar with Subarus so I don't know if you can hear them spin up or not......Most any shop can tell you if you have fuel pressure at the rail....the other way is to loosen the fuel line at the rail and turn the key to on ( not crank) and see if you have fuel leaking from the loosened connection.

Check oil level and colour in the box if black or sludgy then change if not then look to torque convertor issue

No - bleeding can be done well statically. Use a bleed tool to help get it right. After complete - check vacuum lines to master cylinder for cracks or leaks.

Start with the simple stuff: is the exhaust system fully supported? Harder stuff: check for ... * loose rear suspension components (unlikely) * prop shaft U-joint wear (also unlikely) * rear transmission support blocks

The 2007 is very similar to the 2005, which has the DRL box behind the glove compartment, at the top center. It's clearly marked DRL.

That most likely is the brake lights staying on because the brake light switch under dash is out of adjustment and the brake pedal is not touching the button to shut it off. Possibly the spring is disconnected that pulls the pedal up against the brake light switch button. Check this out.

If it can be jumped at the solenoid then I would check out the ignition switch or the actual key cylinder insert. Some key inserts have plastic tabs on the sides or end and these will wear over time

Without seeing them my experience says they are clips that have two pieces. Simply put a screwdriver in the slot and turn like u do a screw but be very careful these are very fragile. When they are almost out pull cover off

What is the problem, it just bolts down over the spark plug.

Hi to reset computer just unhook the battery leads for an hour or so, Also check your fuses again, this time with a tester. Sometimes the break in the fuse wire is so small you miss it. Also you may have a loose connection(fuse not pushes all the way in). Check your relay switches in the black box in the engine bay as well as the fuses in the same box. Hope this helps.

could be condensation leaking from a small hole. I have seen some mufflers with a hole about 1/16" just for that purpose. It would do you some good to try and pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. Also, if you are not loosing any coolant, probably nothing to worry about. For coolant to come out exhaust, in most cases, you would have to have coolant entering a cylinder and it would show up in poor performance, very white smoke out exhaust while driving, and lose of coolant.

The latch handle pivots are rusted. Getting the handle off requires: * remove the hatch inner panels. * remove the nuts that secure the outside time panel under the hatch glass. I don't recall if this is actually needed ... * remove the nuts that hold the latch handle, and disconnect the rod to the lock mechanism. You can now either clean up the latch handle or replace it with a new one.

You mention it is winter , not sure where you are , but how cold does it get ,in other words are you using the aircinditioner/heater in the vehicle, and when last was the vehicle serviced, Warming the car up is a good thing and should not use a noticible difference in the consumption. LAst if you can take the vehicle to a dealer and ask them to read the ecu codes and see if the computer is reporting any problems could be something as simple as a dirty filters or throttle body , worth a try, let me know how it goes.

Could be the catalytic converter heat shields, or the exhaust heat shields bolted to the underbody. Might also be the catalytic converter internal converter honeycomb broken loose. Unusual, but can occur if excess unburned fuel is being passed to the converter. High fuel consumption is another clue.

The CEL and Cruise blinking is the error indication. Could be any of several issues. 1. The gas cap is loose, or leaking. This is a VERY common error and is written up in the owners manual. The fuel filler neck could have a leak or rust hole. 2. A small exhaust leak on the "donut" gasket in front of the catalytic converter can cause a"cat inefficiency error", fixable by replacing the donut. For an '07, it unlike that the $200+ fuel/air O2 sensor or the cat needs replacing.

while you are at the garage , have then read the fault codes what there is on the turbo is a set of vanes in the turbine shell that redirect the exhaust gas onto the turbine wheel to give quicker response on acceleration at low rpms when running at rpms these vanes move to allow unrestricted gas flow to the turbine and to the exhaust system those vanes operate in very high temperatures and do become stuck and so don't move freely there is a vacuum operated actuator on the turbo housing that moves the lever for those vanes and that hose to the actuator gets hard and cracks or fails there is a sensor that controls that vacuum to that actuator people call different things by different names so one persons cold start is another person actuator or sensor the turbo can be repaired in an accredited turbo shop if that is the problem and that would be the only thing that could cost up to and around the price of a new turbo

Try this linkie: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f151/help-wanted-buy-used-forester-scared-common-problems-51255/

There is a good one on line , you can download

Try unplugging the MAF sensor, the check engine light will come on but the engine should run almost normally. If this is the case replace the MAF sensor. MAF's seldom set fault codes.

check fuses and relays --have car scanned for trouble code --if you tested the sensors and are good --check your wiring and connections --hubs /wheel bearings --