20 Most Recent 2006 Honda Odyssey - Page 5 Questions & Answers

You must put the exact lines from an auto parts store or the dealership. Replacing them is only part of the job. Also replace the drier/accumulator before pulling a vacuum and recharging the system. Autozone and O'Reilly auto parts usually have loaner gauges and vacuum pumps you can use to do the job. Just be sure to vacuum for a full 30 minutes after reaching 30 in. of vacuum and put the correct amount of Freon in.

Your seat is bolted down. slide the seat all the way back as far as it will go, and look at the slide rails( tracks that the seat travels on), you will see 2 bolts. going into the floor on the rails. just undo the 2 bolts, and then slide the seat forward(slowly, the front has no bolts holding it), on the back side of the rails, are 2 more bolts. Remove thise bolts, and you should be able to remove the seat. (This is a manual seat, not a power seat) hope this helps, please rate helpful or not

The hidden plastic spear point generally is aligned fore-aft and somewhat outward, so to disengage it place your prying tool at the forward edge of the lens cover and pry aftward and outward. Also, better to have two tools (taped screwdrivers or small pry tools), one to initially start the movement and the second to position next to it so to reduce the level of stress at a single pry point.

It really doesn't as long as you get all the air out By starting at the right rear & working toward the master cylinder, you use less fluid & get the air out better

calibrate? where are you on this car, there are 3000 parts state a system. like engine. the state what part of that? if it is an engine question , do tell which one you have first because we can not guess. here are our, in N.American there are others. generation 3. engine. 3.5 L V6 210 hp J35a6 OR a7 ENGINE. 3.5 L V6 244 hp (2005) 244 hp (2006) j35A6 OR a7 If touring model. 241 hp (2007-2010) other counties use. 2.4L 160 PS (118 kW; 158 hp) or 200 PS (147 kW; 197 hp) I4 totally different engines and EFI systems my guess, is your are reading in some book to adjust the engine Head valve lash adjusters if yes, its dead wrong, these engines are HLA (automatic lash adjusters) admition,, what is this word.?

the FSM covers these job, why not read that. or break lots of things and plastic, and step 1, DEFEAT AIRBAGS first or risk broken neck. (death) or login to alldata.com, very complex and many trim levels and vast more compexity as options. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2053587.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.XHonda+Odyssey+Service+Manual+2006&_nkw=Honda+Odyssey+Service+Manual+2006&_sacat=0&_from=R40 is the odometer VFD? (glow blue or green?) know what that means? vacuum Florescence display>? if yes, its NOT a lamp. i looked in the online and it only shows a dash brain, controller. in newer cars, there are no user servicable parts there. on my 08 it has all LED and VFD. (zero lamps like in olden days) i hope yours is just a lamp but i bet not. check the FSM for full facts here.

this car has 2 heating systems , one front and one rear. ill assume its front bad. (an option day1 ) one more option is (also not stated) is the fancy CLIMATE CONTROL , option. (got that?) im guessing yes. this car has this (can) very complex CC system. with a thermostat for both driver and passenger. see buttons, there? ok ,so how does that work, (read the FSM it covers ops) it must modulate the 3 ports (IIRC its 3) left , rear and right. so the left valve is dead, there is a micro damper there. if it the magic control senses (sensors) its too cold it opens this micro damper. about 3" size. and you get heat. so it can only be 3 things, the FSM on my car is even worse. the Control sensors lied. the Control failed to see input or say it and failed to send open commands to the micro damper to left side. or the micro damper is DOA> 3 possibles. Input bad output bad (controller is bad) slave is bad. just like all thing like this , same 3 rules. the fsm should cover testing each sub part, lost the FSM>?

is your mechanic brain dead, he/she is not ASE certified, or it be fixed now. Cats, (never dogs) do break up (ceramic type) just for funs and giggles, just vibration or bumps or hitting any OBJECT on the road can do that. on my 88 jeep the rear exh mount broke and it shock the cat to DEATH. just a 99cent clamp , bam. point to if you drive any car with the CEL flashing that means the CAT is melting ,diD YOU? its in the operators guide. and what to do , it says stop car, and let it cool and to go slow to nearest sevice, mine says ,drop off the trailer too. (trucks) if the engine was running in limphome with huge exhaust heat and air and fuel the cat is doomed, all cars can to that ACT. next time (if true) stop avoiding the CEL. , scan it and find the errors. so my guess, is the cat burned up and slagged on you. the ECU EFI is running rich, and most likely MISFIRING like HELL. all misfirings when ignored, kills the CAT. i guess you mech, never seen and engine MISFIRE? if not , fire him , no, run fast to the nearest ASE shop. really.