2005 Audi A3 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

if dim light its a bad earth , if blinking fast check bulbs on that side,
if not working one minute and then working the next its a flashing unit/relay check these out, hope this helps?

when you noticed the indicator being on solid, but flashing with the hazards, are you inside your car? I mean have you gotten out of your car to check if the bulbs are working when the indicator thrown and when the hazards are on. A hard on indicator usually means that you have a bulb burnt out. The hazards will still flash as normal when inside the car even if a bulb is burnt out because the hazards do not run via the Electronic Flasher Module. The EFM is what detects a burnt out bulb

my 06 A3 just started doing the exact same thing. Let me know if you find a solution out. My warrantee just ran out as i'm over 80 KM now.

on the right hand side of the dash board , you have to open the RHS door and where the door panel is shaped to meet the dash board their is a plastic cover on the dash board, it is a smooth flat plastic plate, just get your fingers under it and pull it off.

opposite side for lh drive.

Are all the fuses still ok

You have the key in the car? if so use a coat hanger to open the door, if not or you can't get the door open call AAA if you have it if not call a lock smith to get it unloked with a slim jim.

Haven't got specs on A3, but A4 says back by fuel tank & pump under car. Others may have it in engine compartment. Fittings are usually 19mm,or 22mm, & 17mm, going in & out. Should be metal casing & arrows showing fuel flow direction.

you may try replacing the cylinder head gasket. this may work

try this site
www.radio-code.co.uk

try taking off the gas cap and then retighten it.may have a vacume lock.make sure gas cap is tight.

you can get a switched ground useing a live wire to switch a rely to provide switched ground.live power to pin 85 ground to pis 86 and 30,the pin 87 will be negative whe the key is on.

Dripping condensation from a/c evaporator core is normal. If it wasn't driping from there it would be all over the passenger side floor. While it's dripping, find where the drip is coming from on the firewall and remember where the drain hose is...They often plug up and knowing where it is will help you if it does.

Could be thermostat this regulates the water flow around the engine to keep it cool sounds like it is sticking open when water gets hot!!

have you checke the fuses?

The vibration like comes from a misfiring cylinder when cold, which in turn can have many causes; bad spark plug, bad coil, bad fuel injector, leaking head gasket etc.

With such a major overhaul that you did recently I'd go back to the shop since it can be related to the repair. This is especially true if you see white smoke from the tail pipe.

Good luck!

have you checked the brake lights for operation ?
if they don't work than it is your brake light switch located on the pedal support bracket.

Does it beep when you start driving?

If so, you might have your speed warning set too low. These cars have 2 speed warnings. Speed warning 1 resets each time you turn off the ignition. Speed warning 2 is stored in the memory. It sounds like you have a problem with no.2, but it's weird because I'm pretty sure the warning has to be set to at least 3mph. Your owner's manual shows you how to set the speed warnings under "controls and equipment - driver information displays."

The temperature reading is just the ambient (outside) air temperature.

Hope this helps.

Likely a faulty diverter valve. If you have some decent mileage on the car the DV may be failing. It's a flimsy design with a plastic internal diaphragm. They're not terribly expensive (you can buy them at www.ecstuning.com or www.purems.com).

That being said, I'd still look around the turbo and intake systems for a loose, cracked, or disconnected vacuum hose - a vacuum leak should trip a check light but it may not always do so. Look for that, and if nothing is apparent, then I'd look at changing the DV.

There should be a square hole for a 3/8 ratchet or a octagon for a wrench to remove th adapter. Some had allen wrench fittings which would be a recessed octagon

Hi, had total issues with this too! Your back speakers arent going because they are amped by the factory amp in the boot. You have to provide power to the amp so that it will turn the rear speakers on. This was a white and black striped wire in my car (Audi A3 1997) The rear speakers are blue /green and brown/red (left rear) , and the LH rear is brown/red and (forgotten colour) but the wire on the bottom left under those two brown/red wires on the 20pin harness. If you wire it all up like this then your rears should be going :)