2005 Audi A3 - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Cost about the same, your going to have to replace the heads on the engine and most likely replace the piston that the valves were being hit by.
This would be a total engine tear down to repair, there are shops that say no and just run the damaged pistons which will work. But it's just a meter of time before a connecting rod or pin fail causing another engine tear down.
More economical to replace the whole engine with new internal parts. Thank you for using fixya and good luck, you can also upgrade your engine by using timing gears instead of the belt. But it will be loader, since you'll hear the gears whining.

sorry I think nobody can help uuuu

There is a fan switch,,,,sometimes called a sensor which controls the fan....usually located on the back side of the radiator....likely on the left side....about halfway between top and bottom...replace it...Must drain radiator down to that point...Joe LittleBear

Could be a fuse or a relay prob. Hopefully it's not an indicator stalk switch problem (expensive). If your hazard warning lights switch works then it's not the fuse or the relay. If your A3 is still under warranty then get your Audi dealer to fix it. If not it won't pass the 'MOT'. Get it sorted before someone rear-ends you while you're turning!

Does it keep running till the batt is flat? It could be the aircon condenser fan running - on the left as you stand in front of the car. This is a common prob with A3s of this age.
I have a '05 3.2L Quattro V6 and suffered the same prob. The batt is in the boot of the V6 and is sealed like Fort Knox so impossible to disconnect. After about 3 days with this the fan running constantly and having to put a charger on it every night I let the batt run completely flat to try and reset the complete system - no DIS lights - no starter motor clicks - DEAD. Then I jump started it and the prob disappeared completely. Everything is working perfectly ncluding the aircon. That was 4 days ago and 'touch wood' I've had no probs since. I know this won't work for everyone but it's worth a try before forking out £300+ for a new condenser fan unit. Good luck!

You should be able to cycle the key on and off a number of times to prime the fuel rail. The oil light is always on when you first crank the engine. If it doesnt shut off as soon as the engine starts...yeah, that is good cause for shutting it off and getting a mechanic to check it out.

If you can find the valve on the fuel rail you can check for pressure *(and possibly purge the air out of the rail by pushing the valve and burping off the trapped air)

Under glove box,remove plastic panel

because of the shape of the car and temperature within the under bonnet,audi/ vw use the electric fan to maintain a closer tolerance of engine temperature.for maximum economy.so your main fan will come on more often than perhaps an older car that you may have owned.as changing the thermostat has shown no change.

Yes they are on the same fuse. If changing the fuse doesn't fix the problem check the passenger footwell for dampness as water can get into the convenience control unit from a possible leaking pollen filter housing. If there is no dampness, the control unit could still cause this problem and it;s situated under the carpet in the passenger footwell.

dual mass fly wheel, sounds stupid but try it. just done it on mine.
sam

Hi,

I just wondered if you have had this repaired yet and what was causing it as my Audi A3 2005 model has exactly the same problem!!

In response to bs77bird - the two things are definatley related. When i am stationary and the bonnet light is on neither my front wipers or my windscreen wash work. when im moving, my wipers do work, but my windscreen wash still doesnt. When the light turns itself off occasionally, both the wipers and windscreen wash work when im stationary and moving.

Any help would be great as i dont want to get ripped off for something i could potentially fix myself!

your heater core has gone out, and will need to be replaced.

are you installing the thermostat correctly? the correct direction? how can the radiator be blocked if ok when the thermostat is removed?

It's difficult to find intermittent battery drains, but I can tell you from past experience the most likely things are 1. the trunk light staying on sometimes. If you can access the bulb, remove it and see what happens. 2. the hood light, same solution. 3. aftermarket alarms and car starter are often the culprit. Hope this helps. I think the window problem is unrelated. The window motor probably is bad. Sometimes you can get lucky and make it work by banging on the inside of the door near the bottom while holding the switch down. If this works, it's definetely a bad window motor.

circle with a "!" like this

first bring it in to see if it is throwing a code on the computer... the light could be caused by a malfunction in the maf,haladex system or abs system.

I just loosen the bolts of the subframe and use a bar to pull it down abit , while my lad changes the bush, or you could pull it down a bit and block it with a bit of wood, so you can change the bush safely.

The problem is in the wiper switch assembly itself. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

First you must air bleeding out from inside hydraulic clutch acting system ! On the slave cylinder you will find an aeration screwed ventil provided for air bleeding. See picture below:

Two person are necessary for this operation. One person for acting the clutch pedal and another person for air bleeding out from inside hydraulic clutch acting system by unscrewing the aeration ventil from slave cylinder. This operation is difficult, and must spend some time for successful result!

sounds like a bent tooth on a syncro gear in the trans