2005 Audi A3 - Page 10 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

i think you go to other shop foe second opinion, for allignment, sometimes be an defective tire

Yes this is normal, it should turn off when the door is opened, this feature is called delayed exit.

YOU WILL GET A HAYNES WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR AT YOUR LOCAL LIBARY...

Leave the bleed screw alone, remove the cap on the master cylinder, and wind the piston clockwise.

This will require factory VAG software to complete. Local repair facility may be able to help if not then you will have to go to the dealer.

In my experience with Audis, after any job requiring changing/draining the coolant the car ideally needs to be driven. With the coolant topped up to max drive the car, keep the revs up and shake the car with steering and over bumps where possible. Whatever you do make sure you take at least 2 litres of water/coolant with you, as as soon as the air lock goes, the level drops a lot and quickly. Also keep an eye on the temp gauge and avoid letting it go much over 90 degrees (over 90 on the gauge usually means its well into the hundreds) When you get consistant hot air through the heater, at idle, the level should of settled. If this doesnt work you may have thermostat issues or a blockage. Good luck, let me know how you get on.

Do you know if the engine timing is correct? If you get the timing a tooth out you very similar issues, has the cambelt been replaced recently - or is it over due??
Another posibility is the cam chain adjuster. This is oil pressure fed and I think controled by a solnoid, it applies a force between the chain that drives the inlet camshaft from the cambelt driven exhaust camshaft. (Making any sense? Let me know if you want me to simplify) This operating correctly advances and retards the valve timing, when faulty it can make it incorrect. Non start is a fault caused, but more often they become very noisey.
The cam chain adjuster is fed oil when the car is started, you can breifly here it before it has reached operating pressure on normal start up, sounds like a diesel knock for a second, then goes, this is normal. If it continues, its more than likely faulty.
Let me know if you want any more info. If the sensor and wiring is good you'll probably have a timing issue.

Your motor probably runs in "failsafe" mode (won't go past 3000rpm in highest gear), but in that case the ECU warning light should also come on (which might also be broken ofcourse).

Try releasing and reconnecting the battery (-connectors), which should "reset" any fault-codes in the ECU and see if the TDI power is back. Please note that the "cause" of the ECU faultcodes will probably put the motor back in "failsafe" mode within minutes ! But at least you've verified that your motor runs in "failsafe" mode due to serious faultcodes in the ECU.

You should have a dealer/expert read the ECU faultcodes using VAGCOM to determine the cause. A dealer will charge something like 50~60$ for it.

Since it's a 1.9TDI my best guess is that's it a broken N75 turbo-valve (common TDI issue, replacing the part yourself will cost less than $30 and 15 minutes). When the dealer suggests a complete replacement of the Turbo-unit (quite expensive), please have a TDI-expert do an 2nd opinion ...

HI,YOU WILL HAVE TO SEND THE CLUSTER TO A ELECTRONICS SHOP TO HAVE THE LCD SCREEN REPLACED,ANDY

HI,ON THE COOLANT HOSE RUNNING ABOVE THE GEARBOX NEXT TO THE CYLINDER HEAD IS A COOLANT SENSOR THIS IS A 4 PIN SENSOR BLUE OR GREEN,REPLACE WITH THE LATEST TYPE,USE THE OLD ONE AS A SAMPLE IF YOU MUST AND IT SHOULD SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM,LET ME KNOW,ANDY

Sounds like it could be your alternator (the part which recharges your battery while you're driving.) If it's in the process of dying, it will still give a little power back, and it will seem to be doing it's job when you're in the shop, but after some driving, you'll lose power. If it isn't that, there's also a chance it could be you have a short somewhere which is draining your battery. 
I would get your alternator checked first.
I hope that helps.
Caid.

The window regulator clips are a very common failure. I bought some on ebay which were an improved version compared to the original supplied with the car. I think they are regularly available on ebay!

Have you checked the fuse?? if the fuse is ok its possible the fuse holder

Most pollen filters on this model are fitted in the bulkhead, below a plastic trim panel at the base of your windscreen, below the tax disc. Lift the panel and you'll be able to slide the panel air filter forwards and away. Hope this helps you? Good luck

That means water/moisture is in the lubricating system. A very common reason for this is the vehicle is not driven long enough to be hot enough to evaporate naturally occurring condensation. If you don't drive the vehicle alot and/or short trips . a good solution may be to switch to synthetic oil.

There is no change interval as it is chain driven

drivers door lock needs replacing,if you have the central electronics checked it will give you a code,and i will possibley be that door,the microswitches play up in them quite a common fault

try cleaning out the jet hole with a fine needle, this cured mine.

Not even sure who makes those cars but this should hopefully help you

http://vsmus-origin.skf.com/Files/Brochures_in_PDF/457377.pdf

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