20 Most Recent 2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara - Page 7 Questions & Answers

power? you mean OD lamp? ok , you do have 12vdc power distribution failure. check the fuses for bad, rusted, or cracked.

try with 2 website and proceed according. www.aa1car.com or www.automecanico. com translate the website with your browser and fix it. God bless you

you have two options go to www. aa1car.com or www.automecanico.com and proceed according for fix it. God bless you

Here, just follow this steps:

1. Locate the tail light on the rear of your vehicle. They are located on each corner and light up when you apply your brakes or turn signal.
2. If applicable, remove any mounting screws on the outside of the tail light.

3. Open the trunk of your vehicle and locate the back of the tail light.

4. Remove the socket and bulb from the back of the tail light by turning and pulling.

5. Remove the tail light mounting screws or nuts.

6. Push the tail light out from behind.

replace egr valv and reset computer

is this your first car?I will presume the fan is running at full speed and heat max is set and the that you tried recirc lever. fresh air is less heat...Cab heat bad. right?only when moving, what?Ill guess that no heat sitting idle for 30mins. TIME MATTER.as does time of day and if first start of day and if the ambient temperature (out door temp counts, and guess what no country or stated told so i cant look it up, me fail)first off,the modern engine can take a huge long time, to heat up dead cold and not driven , that is why the op guide tells you,start car ,wait 45 seconds and drive off slowly,the warms the engine fastest , saving 90%of all engine wear.this is proven fact by Germany long ago and now with SAE.org.hard fact.now if you know the car warmed faster before.then this is possible 2 ways.1: bad thermostat. (slow)2: or the engine is running so bad, that the heat to the water jackets are weak. the cab heat will be the same as the engine water coolantif the engine is cold, so will you be. hard fact.there are no electric air heaters here...here is a frozen air page.http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/Frigid-motor-cab.html2 tests. 1: does the engine hit 180F or more and hold?2; does it do that , at the same speed, as when new?if not we trouble shoot that first. (fan works, and blows)

which engine, what country>but....1: can you save the stall with fast right foot.how many miles will it go, before the stalldoes it only stall at stop signs?cant go farther with out that. answer.but can say. the classic 3 ways.1: bad engine (lots compression hot)2: lost spark (is it a diesel? ) oops , there is no spark on diesels.3: lost fuel or too much.there are 3 simple tests to find the 3 ways to fail.

It may be worth it to get a second opinion. Most engines, regardless of the make and model will burn a little bit of oil between oil changes. While a quart and a half is low, it's not something that would cause a motor to lock up. I highly recommend taking it to another mechanic to get a second opinion. I've had a friend of mine have something VERY similar occur in their daughter's Honda (driving, shut off while driving, wouldn't restart) and it ended up being the battery. My though would be have the battery tested (for free at Autozone or Advance Auto Parts) and if the battery is dead, get another one and get a trusted mechanic do more digging to find what killed the battery (alternator?).

double posted.see prev. post.

clear the light drive 10milsok now?when you pull the battery all brains in car are reset. all.the A/t will have to re learn your driving style, so let it.you can plug in any scan tool and look to see what error is stored.for as little as $7-15 bucks. or go to the zone and ask em to...

csp = SES=CEL=MIL?your car came with an operators guide (glove box)and shows each lamp and the meaning.you must tell us what light came on, i can not guess.i have a 04 Gv, AND THERE is no CSPand google returns zero hits. on that.Ok let me do wild guess , (in the USA?) you see the car bogand the Check engine light glows (or SES) service engine soon.am i correct, and if it flashes, this means you are cooking the CAT to DEATH.we we do is use a scan tool to see what DCTs were stored.the CEL on tell , yes, the ECU sway errors and gee look here they are, post the DTC\'s first.

old postjust like all cars.with a compression gauge.but not all gauges, work , only the long hose screw in type worknever the V8 style. short, rubber tips, (fail)if how means, what is the procedure, well that is the same for all EFI cars. (and safty steps)you didnt state the engine type, size?but most suzuki run 170psi min.cold or 185 hot.the 12 steps (1.6L) http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.htmlif you want, the FSM covers this.or atalldata dot comsafety:keep in mind if you let the injector squirt fuel and spark is enabled too , you invite danger to you .A pro defeats the fuel buy killing the fuel pump.I defeat both, spark an fuel then do the compression tests.the spark can hit 100,000 volts open circuit and if it reaches outto you, that can cause Pain or worse.most GV have , COPS, Coil over plugsfues 39 IG-COIL fuse kills the COPS.and it think sill allows cranking. via engine bay fuse 2.so pull IG-coil in the cab, next to left toes, for max safety.

did it crank, that is the most important.if a car does not crank over, it can never start, (rare exception, manual trans, push started)

why did you disconnect the battery?