20 Most Recent 2000 Ford Windstar - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The FEM (Forward Electronic Module) is defective....See image #1...This necessitates a trip to the dealer in that replacement requires a Ford Diagnostic Tool...See Removal and Installation instructions below...You may find one on EBay... Front Electronic Module(FEM) Removal and Installation CAUTION: Prior to removal of the FEM, it is necessary to upload module configuration information to a diagnostic tool. This information needs to be downloaded into the new module once installed.. Disconnect the battery ground cable.. Remove the instrument panel lower steering columnopening cover. Remove the bolts. Thumbnail 1 Remove the instrument panel opening cover reinforcement. Remove the bolts. Thumbnail 2 Remove the front electronic module(FEM). Disconnect the five electrical connectors. Remove the three bolts. Thumbnail 3 CAUTION: Once the new module is installed, it is necessary to download the module configuration information from the diagnostic toolinto the new module. To install, reverse the removal procedure. IMAGE 1: Cost is high, Around $500 saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

You can't just swap out odometer or instrument cluster. You have to do a programmable module installation and then reset the PATS keys. The dealer can do this, or someone with access to a Ford scan tool.

the transponder has to be set to the ignition switch see ford manual. Note. non ford key wont work

Owners manual will give fuse locations and identification

800 RPM is not bad and is enough to run the alternator. What you need to check is the idle air speed motor.

Sometimes motor mounts cause the same vibrations when they tear.

Is the core actually what is leaking or is it maybe your lines or connections? Also, where did you get the core? If you have changed it twice i would venture to say that the original was the first change and a replacement was the second change? Maybe you just got a bad core and it is nothing you did wrong.

Open rear hatch and remove the 2 screws holding in taillight assy. Grab taillight firmly and wiggle off. Remove bulb socket and replace bulb. Reassemble in reverse

Steve, isn't that a better way just to buy a new pump on eBay and replace it DYI? It'll not be $225 - that's the price mechanic told you (included his work of 2 hours = $170)

loose wires on switch

Check the socket and make sure it has power and groun getting to it with a test light. There may be a broken wire or bad socket.

I am not exactly Positive, Did it always lock doors as soon as you put it in Drive or only after reaching 5-10 MPH? my experiences have always been with vehicles that only lock after reaching a specific MPH, Usually under 15 MPH.

the wiper motors are different so not interchangeable.

If we're talking about a pickup, then there must be a liftgate on the end of the truck bed.If the computer says that the lift is "ajar", of course the liftgate is not up and locked in place. There must be a switch somewhere on the lift. Look for the switch.Hope this helps.

check the fuses if one of the door locks is damaged or in opt. than the rest of the unit will not work until you find the issue and fix it., the fuse link is on every device and if one short open than the rest of the unit will not work. the unit in the shifter maybe also bad or in opt. the wiring is broken or open some where

have the light module checked / replaced

If the brake light in question is one of the "corner" lights (regular tail light assembly brake lights in other words, not the one in the top of your rear window) First open your back door. Look at the tail light lens, on the side towards the inside of the car, you should see 2 or 3 bolts/screws. Normally it will take a 10mm wrench/socket (note: it is much easier if you use a socket with a wratchet vs. a regular wrench). On some models the screw heads will have a star in them, this is called a "torx head", if this is what your van has you might need to purchase a set of torx tools, because when used it could be any one of three sizes. They sell multi-size torx tools at most autoparts stores and even some hardware stores. remove the 2 or 3 bolts/screws. grab the lens assembly and wiggle it until it comes off. Sometimes it will come right off, sometimes you have to give it a little pull, dont force it but be firm. once the lens is off, you will see either 2 or 3 sockets sticking in the back side of the assembly, one of these will be your brake light. the one on the bottom will be your reverse lights, you may need to have someone step on the brakes so you can look at the side that works to see which one is lighting up. Once you figure out which bulb it is, grasp the socket and twist, it will only go in one direction, a quarter turn should be enough to get it out. pop the bad bulb out and put the new one in. line up the lock tabs on the socket with the lens assembly, put it in and give a twist until its locked in place. all that is left is putting the lens back on. line up the assembly and put it back in, from here it should be just putting the screws/bolts back in and you're on your way

It sound like the solenoid and or starter

Bad coil or coil not plugged in all the way. It should not be related to you doing the heads as the spark is controlled by the brain. I would check the pins in the coil pack and the connector just to be sure they didn't get bent. The 3.8l motor is very interesting on how the head bolts get tightened.