20 Most Recent 1996 Ford Windstar Questions & Answers

Position the cylinder head on the cylinder block. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in 2 steps following the proper torque sequence. The first step is 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) and the second step is 68 ft. lbs. (92 Nm).

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. This is not something that needs torquing if you use a new gasket. Sequence is always the same criss-cross from centre out. Do three passes on the bolts 1. put the bolts in by hand using the socket and the extension, no wrench. 2. tighten them a bit more using the ratchet until resistance is felt. 3. last pass, snug them down another 45'. https://www.google.com/search?q=1996+Ford+Windstar+3.8.+Torque+specs+and+tightening+sequence+for+timing+cover You really need a Service Manual https://www.google.com/search?q=1996+ford+windstar+3.8.+service+manual ..

are you pluging in a cell phone etc. charger with the device already plugged into the cord? if so that will blow a fuse sometimes

There's contacts in the door opening, use an eraser to clean both sides and check the contact springs.

Section 13-09: Gauges, Warning Devices — Chime System 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Warning Chime Systems Three distinct sounds are used to indicate the area of concern. Seat belt warning generates 1 chime per second
key-in-ignition generates 2 chimes per second
headlight on generates 4 chimes per second.
Key-In-Ignition Warning The key-in-ignition warning will sound when the driver's front door (20125) is opened with the key in the ignition switch. It will continue to sound until the key is removed, the front door is closed, the ignition switch is turned to START or the vehicle speed is over 24 kmh (15 mph).

Safety Belt Warning When the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START from OFF or ACC, the chime will sound for six seconds or until the safety belt is buckled.

• The safety belt warning indicator lamp (10C859) will activate for 60 seconds or until the driver's safety belt is fastened. Both the chime and lamp activate at the same time.

Anytime the ignition switch is released from START and returns to RUN while the safety belt lamp or chime is activated, the safety belt warning lamp or chime will remain activated until either the timing sequence has been executed, or the safety belt is buckled.

Headlamp Switch On Warning The chime will be activated if the headlamps or parking lamps are ON, the key is not in the ignition and the driver's door is opened. The chime will sound at a rate of four per second.

30mm

Something wrong with the pickup tube on the pump.

You have to remove the engine cradle/subframe. It's not welded in.

More likely it's the body control module.

if your starter clicks it the current is going thru to the solonoid check your earthing also see if you have power on the starter motor.

You're describing the symptoms of a worn out transmission

replacing the timing cover seal( crankshaft seal) will have nothing to do with water getting into the oil water in oil from a timing cover is likely from corrosion holes behind the water pump impeller removing the engine may be the correct practice to keep labour times down however that is for them to explain as it may be an excuse to charge you more or a sign of incompetence as to possible fixes have the cooling system checked with a pressure test if there are pressure drops but no visible signs of leaks , it may well be the timing cover corrosion problem or a head gasket problem find an accredited service center for a proper diagnosis and a quote

What indications ? all indications was fuel pump went bad.?? With out doing a fuel pump pressure an flow testing , guessing is all your doing . An if the guy you took it to can't diagnose for sure he is no mechanic . If there is no fuel pressure an the fuel pump is new , the thing to do would be to find a wiring diagram an check power an grounds also the fuel pump relay inside the constant control relay module . CCRM Google it .

Over here we call it a parking brake - hardly any of our cars are autos. Parking brakes usually connect to the rear disc brake calipers but some manufacturers use a small drum brake in the disc centre for parking purposes due to the complexity of the caliper with integral parking brake. When adjusting a parking brake it is important in most designs for the cable to be adjusted only to remove any free play without moving the caliper levers from the backstops and then if the parking brake lever or pedal travel is excessive it must be because of wear or other faults. Sometimes that basic requirement must be taken with a pinch or two of "experienced" salt... Ford have a self adjusting parking brake I have experience of. A spring within the system preloads the cable eliminating all slack in the cable so the cable moves the caliper levers from the first. The main problem with the system is the preload spring is sometimes strong enough to overcome the resistance of the caliper spring and cause a binding brake. No manual adjustment was provided. In that case I find fabricating and fitting brackets to anchor additional return springs to the calipers is a must.

Why drive side bearing could be a bad other.balance yes, tie rod could be bad.