20 Most Recent 1994 Nissan King Cab Questions & Answers

What up? I got a 85 nissan 720 4x4 2.4, with Weber,never had a issue with my timing chain,got a remanufactured Jasper motor, now have 55,000 miles on it,truck has 343,000 on speedo,had it since 93.Here's a link on a repair guide for your timing chain. Repair Guides Engine Mechanical Timing Chain And Tensioner AutoZone com

94, probably have to cut it of. Tire is probably dry rotted also.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Nissan+king+cab+truck+ignition+system&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=T3CHVMrwGoK6acyzgtgD&ved=0CD4QsAQ&biw=1252&bih=590#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=yzhq3tz00BusCM%253A%3Bpo6xjjN1R5li7M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.partsbase.org%252Fmedia%252Fimages%252Fnissan%252F56%252F56ab5d24d3cc3c6f22371ee4e980c27f.png%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.partsbase.org%252Fnissan%252Fpickup-720-us-k-cab-z24i-st-f5-long-4wd-fed-engine-electrical-ignition-system%252F%3B1024%3B548 here is the google search i used it brings up the full blowup details etc you can look thru and find the details you need there is a few different configs best you check it out

you put it on when you are driving on the highway and going to go over 50 so you save fuel

I am guessing here but I am sure that the yokes on the shafts are not in phase . That is to say that the cross pieces are out of wack. check the position of the gearbox yoke and place it directly vertical . Check the position of the joint at the other end of the shaft and the cross must be exactly the same . If it is off say 45 degrees then it has not been assembled properly. Now to explain it better . the ears of the gearbox yoke ( bit that has the 'U joint bearings in it) should be on top and underneath ---Vertical plane ---. That will place the ears of the shaft in the horizontal position now go to the rear end of that shaft and the ears of the shaft must be in the same plane . IF those eras are vertical ( the same as the gearbox yoke ) then it has to be pulled apart and rotated 90 degrees to be the same as the front of the shaft. Now the second shaft ( slip joint end and the diff end get the same treatment. So the slip joint yoke has to be in the same plane as the diff yoke. It all has to do with the shaft speeding up and slowing down as it rotates through the 90 degrees and the different "u" joint s speed up and slow down at different times so that one end cancels out the other and you have a vibration frees shaft. If you are still unsure go on the web and find a site the refers to drive shaft manufacture and problems and phasing

see if you might have a bad ground on the gas tank where wires hook up to the top of gas tank. I don't know if you can reach up and move the wires around from side to side could have a bad connection. might have to let the gas tank down. have you tried to check your fuses first. if you find one for the fuel gauge pull it out look at real good make sure it is not burnt across inside by looking at the fuse what I usually do if you have another good fuse same amp is try a different fuse just to be sure.i use to work on cars a lot but had surgery on my back so from work history of 30 plus years of knowledge I hope I can help others. I hope this works let me know if this helps. you also might try to wiggle the wires around on the back of fuel gauge. you may also have a bad gas gauge but try what I said to try first. god bless

Test the Alternator and battery. You need to have both load tested. Auto Zone will test both for free.

The starter is located at the rear of the engine (you must go under the truck) where the transmission bell housing bolts to the block of the engine. It will have a large positive battery cable going to it and other smaller wires, if you remove these wires make sure you write down colors and where they bolted up to the starter terminals, this is a common mistake for do it yourselfers.

If you bought it from a car yard,take it back to get repairs.The speedo fault may be from the speed sensor head on the gearbox which will in turn set off the OBD light.It seemed to be a common problem in that year for the tacho fault.Both speedo and tacho fault can be in the instrument panel.So it may need to be tested anyway before replacing parts and wasting $$.Try squirting some powdered graphite into the lock and rattling the key and pushing it in and out.Locks that aren't used much can freeze up.You can use WD-40 but graphite lasts longer.and is preferable for all locks.
I Cant help you with specific places to go due to different country but try car dismantlers or google for places in your area.Most states,cities have there business phone books online also.
I hope this helps you with the problems and minimises your spending.

jack up the front of the truck and place on jack stands. check the ball joints for wear as well as the tye bar. try greasing all the fittings first before taking anything apart. if the tye bar is the culprit they are usually threaded and can be adjusted in and out.

these motors are quite easy to do with the V belts and if you look you will see the adjusters have a tightening bolt to pull the belts up tight but you must slacken the whloe unit first so you can use the adjuster without breaking something first like a bracket

check you oil level , then make sure the proper weight was installed.
Its also possible a faulty oil filter was installed.
Being it started after the oil change , these would be the logical
things to check first.

I recommend you get the Haynes Repair manual for your vehicle to to get these steps as they are specific and the manual shows all the special tools involved. When I had this problem on mine I actually found it simpler to replace the whole compressor.

3 solutions. If original equipment, dealership item.
or most part stores have different sizes of weatherstripping. If this was an aftermarket add-on. Possibly the manufacturer will have a replacement.

wow, seems like you got your money out of that motor and transmission, have your transmission flush and filter change. Having 175k Im sure that transmission filter is dirty and may be clog up. change filter and flush will solve some of your problems and give it a bit more life to your transmission. if that does not help, it time to rebuild it or replace one from a junk yard.

replace your headlight switch

mkimdaly: There is a product on the market called "Restore" which is an oil additive designed specifically for high mileage engines with oil consumption and smoking problems. Mind you, it will not fix evey situation, but it has resolved quite a few on cars which have come through my shop. "Mechanic in a can".
If I am not mistaken, it is designed to fill in small scratches that may be in the cylinder walls. I also has an effect on lifters and on oil seals. There is also a product put out by "Lubromoly" it is a product made in Germany and you may not find it on the shelves at normal retailers, but possibly carried at repair shops which specialize in imports. I carry this product line at my shop and have had good luck with many of their other products as well. There is a company called "Worldpac" but they only sell to repair shops. The product line I am talking about, I have to buy must be bought by the case.
I am sure there may be other comparable products on the market which you may find at "OReilley's or Autozone. You need to speak to their sales people and possibly ask to talk to one of the people who are at their wholesale desk at the back who may be even more familiar with the products. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY! The main reason many products don't seem to work well, is that they are not applied as the manufacturer had instructed in the can and/or box! A product as old as the hills and twice as dusty is "Marvel Mystery oil" I have used it on engines which had little or no compression and pulled the plugs, poured the oil in the cylinders and let it sit over night. I would spin the engine over in the morning to blow the oil out, screw the plugs back in and fire the engine back up. There have been many times than I have had engine regain compression because the oil freed up rings that had stuck to the pistons. This oil can be added to the motor oil and the GAS! As far as the type of oil to use in the engine: It really depends on how well you have taken care of your engine to begin with. If you have done frequent oil and filter changes and the engine is relatively clean inside, I would run a 20W-40 with the additive and in my shop, I happen to use Castrol. Although most premium oils will perform quite well. If you have an engine with a lot of sludge buildup inside it, the sludge is probably the only thing holding it together. WARNING!!!!! DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF ENGINE FLUSH DESIGNED TO CLEAN THE INTERNALS OF THE ENGINE! When I refer to this, I mean a product that instructs you to put it in, run the engine for a while, drain it and then replace the oil and filter. YOU WILL IN ALL LIKELY HOOD DO MORE HARM TO THE ENGINE THAN HELP!
I hope I have answered your question.
Good luck.