20 Most Recent 1999 Ford F250 Regular Cab - Page 8 Questions & Answers

if your left turn signal works the problem is not a fuse is a false contact either in the trailer or in the truck very common under rear bumper harness or trailer connector.

If you already check for vacuum leaks, change the plugs, fuel and air filters, the next step is to remove the plastic duct from the TB to expose and wipe clean the IAT sensor (screen covering TB entrance) applying Carb. Cleaner into a clean rag to wipe it clean. Do not apply Carb. Cleaner directly into TB or IAT Sensor. If problem persists, your IAC valve may be defective.

The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve adjusts the engine idle speed. The valve is located on the side of the throttle body. The valve is controlled by a duty cycle signal from the PCM and allows air to bypass the throttle plate in order to maintain the proper idle speed.

Do not attempt to clean the IAC valve. Carburetor tune-up cleaners or any type of solvent cleaners will damage the internal components of the valve.

Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa!!

The glow plug control is what the problem is. not the relay then it could be both. Have your glow plugs tested should be no more than 4 ohms each.

Do all the lights...headlights, etc.....turn on and are bright like it has a fully charged battery? If so, try tapping on the starter with a small hammer or whatever. If the starter will now turn the engine over, it is time for a starter motor replacement. 11 year old starter might have given up by now. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

This sounds like a problem with the fuel pump. I would suggest that you check the fuel pressure. it should be 60psi. If not...fuel pump most likely the problem.

Your head gasket is leaking! That sucks. Get it to a shop quick. This can lead to major problems if it isn't corrected.

Heater core is under the dash, the dash will have to be remove to replace the heater core, you will also need to have the a/c system recover, evac, and recharge if the system has freon, when this repair is done, this is about a 10 hrs. job.

most likely the pulse vaccum hub solenoid. or a vaccum leak at the hubs

most likely a 4x4 motor seized up

Sounds like the governor in the injector pump is hanging, that or your linkage has come loose. If you haven't yet, check that. On mine, the little clip on the throttle cable came off the ball on the pump linkage.

If it's not the linkage, get a can of 'Diesel Kleen' from (I think) Power Products (most auto parts stores should have it, if not then check the truck stop. If they don't have it, ask what people buy for a sticky pump) and fill the filter with it. Bleed it, Start the truck and let it run long enough to fill the pump with the Diesel Kleen (30-40 seconds) and shut it off and let it sit for a couple of hours. Fire it up and see what happens.

If nothing improves, come on back and we'll take it from there.

lp

Check the hubs on the front end. My Buddie's is notorious for destroying the locking hubs. They remove very easily. There is a lock ring around the outside to remove then pull.

take the plastic grill off the top under the screen and refit the arm ,they have a plastic bush and snow has caused it to come off thats all just clip it back on

Check in the position 17, 30AMP** Electronic Shift On The Fly Relay, Transfer Case Shift Motor and 25, 5AMP for 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Module...




Hope helps; keep us updated..

you need to get an idler wheel on a bracket to take its place or remove compressor and buy a belt made for the same engine without an A/C unit. any parts store should be able to help you out.