1983 Dodge Aries - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Here is a link to where I got this from. Top speed: (theor. without speed governor) 162 km/h / 101 mph http://www.automobile-catalog.com/performance/1983/675440/dodge_aries_se_wagon_2_2l.html

It could be a bad coil, try swapping in a known good coil. You are checking for spark on the coil high tension cable from the coil going to the top of distributor? Also just possible the coil to distributor wire is bad. If still no spark with a different coil and the wire is good, it could be a bad ECM. Or if you have the larger 2.6 Liter 4 cylinder engine, there is an Ignition Control Module for it that controls the coil. I don't see that ICM for the smaller 2.2 liter engine...

go to u tube and type in that it will show you live instructionds

check brake light switch probably stuck on

Try the under the hood skematic. There's alot of lines on that year so good luck. You can try asking a local repair shop or dealer for a print out from alldata. Worse come to worse,plug the one's that you don't know & it should run fine. Most are for emmisions only & won't affect performance.

a real real old car, when did last run good, last decade? cranks fast ,spark good, but test fuel fails or not>? (spray canned) Otto cycle engines 101 AND SAE GOOD ENGINE, (YES CAM BELT NOT SLIPPED) GOOD SPARK , WOW TEST FUEL TEST WORKS FOR 3 SECOND AND ENGINE SOUNDS GREAT,NOT LIKE (TRAIN CRASH) LAST IS GOOD FUELING WITH GAS NOT 34 YEARS OLD. WE TEST SPARK AT ALL SPARK PLUG NEVER JUST ONE. THE CAR THAT SAVED OLD CHRYSLER AND FED LOANED CASH. 3 ENGINES ALL FOR BANGERS 2.2L (135 cid) I4 (1981-1989) 2.6L (156 cid) I4 (1981-1985) 2.5L (153 cid) I4 (1986-1989) GUESS THIS. IS THIS YOURS For 1986, the biggest change was the demise of the Mitsubishi 2.6L I4, replaced by a Chrysler-built 100 hp 2.5L I4. Fuel injection made its way to both the 2.2 and 2.5 engines this year DISTRIBUTOR SURE BUT IS THIS CARB OR EFI.? ok IS EFI SAYS WIKI. used cars now are rare so this will sell for big buck now. I see used cars now sold 3times value, crazy times so good luck. the cam has a timing belt and none this old are good;. they slip and then cam timing is way off and spark timing off too. and will not run no matter how much fuel or spark you throw at it/ I have a timing light, and if spark timing is way off leave the distributor alone the cam is slipped. fix cam first or you will add more problems. next will be this piggy Mr. TB an clogged up inject. TBI it is called. throttle body injection not a carb. fuel pressure must be at spec. too.

The starter is mounted to the transmission at where the motor and transmission come together called a bell housing.

Are you referring to the cover or air injection pump below?

You can trace it down by following the biggest wire from the positive side of your battery to the flywheel between the motor & transmission,the starter is usually under the car.

check the inspection plate at bottom of bell housing

80 ft.lbs

Place key in ignition, turn to on position, and off again do this two times. Then on once more leaving it in this position. (NOTE: DO NOT CRANK ENGINE OVER... Just on off on off on...) After the 3rd on you will see a dash light begin to flash the first 2pause1 or 1pause 2 meaning it has codes for repair. So the next code after the initial 3 is going to be a problem code You need to count the flashes, up until the pause the count the following flashes. All codes consist of two numbers. If you get more than 2 code numbers there may be more than one issue. If you miss or were not positive you got the correct number of flashes. Just turn ignition off and do whole process over.

I have a same problem. need help

STARTER COULD HAVE MOUNTING BRACKET, HEAT SHIELD, OR ENGINE MOUNT IN THE WAY.

what year,engine size

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. First, try checking your fuse. It may have blown. If not, listen to see if you can hear the wiper motor working. It is usually located on the firewall or around it. If it is working, your wiper switch inside the car may be bad, have a bad wire, or may have a loose or bad connection.

3 1 on top passenger side 2 on driver side down low boy the radiator the other down low next to firewall

Just a guess

Under the plate in the distributor

you will need to check and make sure you replaced the old brass washer with the new one it goes between the line and caliper

not to sure by your description the exact issue that you are having with your battery so I will cover both problems that it could be.
if your battery is ' draining ', as in you can see fluid running out the vent hose and onto the ground then is sounds like your alternator is over charging your battery and boiling out the acid,, ( or if you are charging the battery ( on the bench ) using a battery charger and it is drain acid out then the battery charger is over charging the battery.
NOW if your batteries acid level is just going down on its own - then the problem is the battery itself,, you have a bad cell or two in the battery and the battery should be replaced with a new one. ( most batteries have a life of 5 years max ) and most fail in 4 years. if you have any concerns about the battery - you can always drop it off at a battery shop and they can charge and load test the battery to see if it is still good ( for free ).

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