20 Most Recent 1986 Chevrolet Spectrum Questions & Answers

If it is cranking, it is not the module. It could be a defective plug but you usually would atleast get a back fire. You need to make sure your fuel pump is kicking on when you turn the key. You should hear a buzzing sound for a second or two when you first turn the key on. You need to check the gas pressure. If the gas checks out, you need to check for spark in the ignition system. This is your spark plugs, wires, distributor, cap, rotor, cam sensor, crank sensor, and ecm maybe. I know it is a lot of things to check but it could be anyone. If you have a question, just write me back. I am here to help. The best way to solve this issue is by getting a code from your car if you can. It might tell you the problem. If you need anything, let me know.

Interstate, 650 cca's

hi go to your local part store and ask them for a haynes manual for your car . and some libeary have the manuals too

Marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gears. Ensure that they are positioned as required.

Hi

In some cases the thrust bearing will jam up against it if the clutch has not been fitted in line correctly. it is unlikely that the clutch plate is to tight as the flywheel allows for this.

Regards

Dan

code 23 is: intake air temp sensor out of range, signal low, this is the sensor that measures the incoming air temperature for the fuel injection system, the sensor is either located in the intake manifold or in the air duct hose to the engine from the air cleaner box or the air cleaner filter box, it has 2 wires and is a small connector, here is a picture of that sensor.

you did not specify car/truck spectrum and anything else special you may have need so I took a best guess

this is the control module for the spectrum 1.5l gasoline


or maybe you wanted this, however it is to big to download here, maybe you could let me know what you need specific for the ECM...

For 1988 Chevrolet Spectrum-Import 1.5L 2BL SOHC 4cyl the OBD Diagnostic Link Connector is located front seating area, passenger side, under dash, mounted near control module.

Engine Control Module - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
CAUTION To prevent the possibility of permanent ECM damage, the ignition switch must always be OFF when disconnecting power from or reconnecting power to the ECM. This includes unplugging the ECM connector, disconnecting the negative battery cable, removing the ECM fuse or even attempting to jump your dead battery using jumper cables.
Spectrum
(see Figures 1 and 2)

The ECM is located in the passenger compartment, above the passenger kick pad. The ECM used in the Spectrum contains a Programmable Read Only Memory (PROM) chip which contains data relevant to the specific vehicle model. If the ECM is replaced, the PROM must be switched to the new ECM.

1. Make sure the ignition is OFF , then disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Unplug the wiring harness connectors from the ECM.
3. Remove the ECM mounting hardware, then remove the ECM from the passenger compartment.
4. If the ECM is being replaced, remove the PROM access cover, then use a PROM extraction tool to carefully remove the PROM chip from the old ECM:
   1. Starting at the opposite end from the reference mark, gently work the extraction tool tan under the PROM using a slight rocking motion.
   2. Go to the reference end of the PROM and push the tang under the PROM with your thumb pressing on the tool as close to the tang end as possible.
   3. Make sure the tang end is completely under the PROM, but above the mating socket, then grasp the PROM firmly between your thumb and forefinger while pulling upward and remove the PROM from the mating socket.
   4. Position the PROM on a clean flat surface with the leads pointing downward, then carefully press the PROM inserting tool firmly over the PROM. Make sure the reference end can be seen at the tool cut out end.
   5. Compare the service number on the new ECM to the old ECM to double check it is the correct model, then remove the PROM access cover.

WARNING Any time the PROM is installed backwards and the ignition switch is turned ON, the PROM is destroyed.

1. Using the insertion tool, mate the PROM to the circuit board. Make sure the reference ends of both the RPOM and socket are aligned in the same direction. The PROM chip will not be fully seated at this point.
2. Turn the insertion tool over and using the blunt end, press the PROM down until fully seated. Check that the PROM pins are properly seated in the socket and that the PROM and socket ends are properly aligned.
3. Install the access cover.
   

1. To install, reverse Steps 1-3.
2. Turn the ignition ON and activate the self-diagnostics to check for proper ECM operation. Refer to the procedure later in this section.

Fig. 1: Remove the access cover from the ECM in order to remove the PROM chip - Spectrum




Fig. 2: The proper installation and removal tools are essential when servicing the ECM PROM - Spectrum


Hope help with this information.

I would believe, based on your description, that the plug wires may not have been fully seated in the distributor cap. There is really nothing that would have "blown" to cause this problem. Make sure you feel a "click" when you seat the plug wire boot into the cap. If you do not, adjust the plug wire terminal in the spark plug wire boot outward to give it a better hold in the cap tower. Make sure you add plug wire boot grease to prevent water / moisture penetration.
Good luck.

If you put the wire back,and the miss is still there,it is because the cylinder,and spark plug are gas fouled.

I'm not sure but I think that fuse is in the fuse box under the hood. If not it will be in the fuse panel in the driver's footwell above the Park Brake pedal. Try this web page. The fuse is marked as "FRT WPR". A 25A fuse. NOTE Only replace fuses with one of the same Amp rating. Fuses are commonly colour coded so that should help make sure it's the correct one. https://www.carfusebox.com/chevrolet-s10-1988-fuse-boxblock-circuit-breaker-diagram/

Some potential solutions: EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation): You mentioned that you cleaned the EGR, but it's still showing as a fault. The EGR system recirculates exhaust gases back into the intake manifold to reduce emissions. If the EGR valve is malfunctioning or clogged, it can affect engine performance. Here are some steps to consider: Check for Vacuum Leaks: Inspect the vacuum lines connected to the EGR valve for leaks or cracks. A vacuum leak can disrupt EGR operation. Test the EGR Valve: Use a vacuum pump to check if the EGR valve opens and closes properly. If it doesn't, consider replacing it. Clean the Intake Manifold: Sometimes carbon buildup in the intake manifold can affect EGR flow. Clean the intake manifold thoroughly. Thermostat: You've already replaced the thermostat, which is good. A faulty thermostat can cause overheating or poor engine performance. Make sure the new thermostat is functioning correctly. System Voltage Low: This could be related to the charging system (alternator, battery, or wiring). Here are some steps to troubleshoot: Check Battery Voltage: Measure the battery voltage when the engine is off and when it's running. It should be around 12.6V when off and around 13.8-14.4V when running. Inspect Alternator: Ensure the alternator is charging properly. If it's not, consider replacing it. Check Grounds and Wiring: Loose or corroded connections can cause voltage issues. Inspect battery terminals, ground connections, and wiring. Idle Issues: If the engine won't idle properly, consider the following: Idle Air Control Valve (IACV): The IACV controls idle speed. Clean or replace it if necessary. Throttle Body Cleaning: A dirty throttle body can affect idle quality. Clean it using throttle body cleaner. Vacuum Leaks: Check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold, hoses, and gaskets. Timing Chain: The B12D1 engine uses a timing chain. However, if it's stretched or worn, it can cause issues like poor performance or stalling. Consider having the timing chain inspected and replaced if needed. Remember that diagnosing engine issues can be complex, and it's often best to consult a professional mechanic or use diagnostic tools.

Tensioner pulleys are designed to be 'Self Adjusting'. These pulleys are on spring loaded arms so they automatically push against the belt keeping it tight. You use a socket or a spanner to swing the pulley arm back against this spring. *Note* This is a powerful spring so BE CAREFUL when your working on it! A lot of these tensioners have two small holes to help with installing a belt. When you swing the tensioner arm back these two holes line up with each other. You can then slide a hex key, or something similar, through both holes and it holds the arm back giving you space to get the belt on. *Caution* When your ready to release the tensioner DO NOT just pull the hex key out!! With the socket or spanner you used to swing the tensioner arm back push the arm against the spring again, carefully pull the allen key out then Carefully release the pressure on the spring so the pulley sits correctly and tensions the belt.

Help in the link. It may be a faulty switch, but you can test it. https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+Chevrolet+Orlando+open+jammed+hatch ..

check the abs system for relay and electrical problems the clicking can be from a cycling relay and the head lights flickering from the power draw for the abs away from the head lights.

You either replace the whole board as a module, or a company like RS Components, or even Amazon can sell you just the solder-on USB socket. https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+port+replacement ..