Top 20 1981 Chevrolet Corvette - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Check wiring for tach off distributor. The wires get dry and crack and now you have an open.

Hi. What you need is the 1981 corvette owner manual. Here is a link to one I found for you. http://www.bishkobooks.com/servlet/the-27078/1981-CHEVROLET-CORVETTE-Owners/Detail

Joe

your solenoid may be bad or check the coil.

Remove the switch and jump the B+ wire with any of the other two wires and see if the motor responds . If it does you have a bad switch. If it doesn't you have a defective motor.

If you have no power to anything, such as headlights
radio/wipers etc. The fusable link at the starter may
have fried. Try using a jumper wire from the battery connection on the alternator to the + post on the batt.
If you get you're power back, replace the link wire.
It's a rust colored wire on the battery con. at the solenoid.They somtimes have a yellow tag with the amp rating. This was a fairly common problem back
in the day. Also check for any shorted wires that may
have caused the link to pop, and make sure the alt.
starter and battery connections are clean and tight.
Hope this helps.

There is an inline fuse,and relay for the horn behind the center instrument panel.If the fuse is good then follow the dark green wire from the relay to the horns.You can ohm the wire to see if there is an open circuit from the relay to the horns.Hope this helps.Good luck.

If not under your hood then i would suggest getting a GM. repair manual.

Check the hall effect switch in the distributor. That will cause this problem for no spark

Check ball joints , steering linkages and tires. Doesn't take much for a defective radial tire to make this puppy pull.

I would ahve the alternator tested to see if it was bad first, if so I would replace it and see if that improves your choke situation. If the alternator is not putting out enough voltage it can affect other systems in you car including an electric choke system.

You would get the correct carburetor instead for electronic computurized controlled carbs will not work on a 1981 Corvette

because the car thinks its stolen you need to goto a garage i dont think a keyless entry was available on it so that wouldnt help

If the preload is too tight where the pittman arm attaches to the valve it will turn on it's own.It's been a long time but...I'm sure there is a screw very near the pittman arm on the valve assembly,loosen it a little at a time untill it steers normally.If you get it too loose the assist feels "sloppy" or "jerky"

Its either a short or the switch is defective. Remove switch from electrical connector and use an ohm meter to test their resistance.
If resistance is high replace switch.

Usually the blue wire from the stereo is for the remote amp and/or power antenna. If you haven't cut off the stock radio plug, I would check into getting a stereo harness adapter for the stereo. Most auto stereo shops can get them.

The relay has to get power from the key switch to operate, so either a protection fuse has blown, or the key switch is faulty.

Are you saying vehicle is running on 2 barrels?
Time for a rebuild if thats the case. Kinda strange that secondaries are not opening. Make sure likages are not binding. Thats the only time I've ever seen that linkages binded.

Thats because the older style GM blowers depended a lot on bushings for rotation, and as we all know bushings just cant outlast bearings. It looks like you'll need to replace that fan motor.

low on brake fluid

You must remove the steering cowl below the steering wheel and see what is loose, broken or worn. It more likely to be a loose bolt, in which case just tighten it and refit the cowl.
Hope that helps