2001 Mazda B-Series - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Order new door seals from the dealer then replace them both.

Most heater fans have a fuse, ballast resistor, switch and motor. Ballast resistors fail often, and are usually easy to access from under the hood.

lost of oil on master or sleeve cylinder of your clutch full up and bleed the system .2nd one of your seals worn out or cylinder wall damage .

its a egr circuit problem

Hi there,

Your Rustler has an EFI engine, and hence will also have an EFI computer.

Your EFI computer will have stored the fault codes relating to the circuit/component causing this condition.

You mentioned you have changed the fuel pump - can you confirm the pump makes a whirring sound when you turn the key to the ON position (not start)? If no whirring noise (place your ear near the pump), then you still have a problem with either the Main Relay (that powers the fuel pump) or the fuel pump itself.

If the pump does make the whirring noise, then the problem lies within your EFI system or your vehicle's computer. It is likely to be an electrical or vaccuum issue.

Checking your computer for stored codes will be the quickest way to identify the problem.

A datalink connector should be near the strut tower, under the hood (possibly labelled DIAGNOSTIC) and may look like this:



You will require a small jumper wire and LED tester or Voltmeter for this test.

1 Warm the engine and oxygen sensor (if fitted) to operating temperature then switch the engine off. 2 Connect an LED tester or Voltmeter to terminals 'A' & 'B' of the connector. 3 Using a small jumper wire (any wire will do), connect the wire between the other pins (ie 1st row, pin 3; 2nd row, pin 1)
4 Turn ignition to ON (do not start) 5 Read codes on your tester/Voltmeter as follows: • Long flashes indicate the first digit • Short flashes indicate the digit • An 8 second pause separates each trouble code, and will repeat the code/s e.g. Long, Long, Long...(short pause)...short, short = code 32
If you cannot do this yourself, have your local Mazda dealership (or approved agent) check the codes for you.


If you can post your codes on Fixya, we'll be glad to advise on the appropriate repair.

Cheers,


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Belts still could still be in need of replacing,but try this,apply axle grease,or bearing grease o the under side of all the belts,a lot of it,this is the side the pulleys come into contact with,close the hood and start the engine,the belts will not make a sound after you do this,it will last a good long time.

have code pulled from auto parts store from check engine light being on tell me what code is and ill tell you how to fix it auto pats store will pull code for free good luck

Call any locksmith, or the dealer

under the drivers chasis side

its easier to get the whole control arm and the lower one has to be pressed in. it is not and easy job if you dont have the right tools checkout rockauto.com to look at the replacement parts and to get a price on them

either the collision sensor or the bag control module failed. I advise taking it to a dealer, only because if you start messing around with the sensors, you can deploy the airbag, then you'd be worse off.

CHECK BATTERY CABLES FIRST MAKE SURE THEY ARE TIGHT AND FREE FROM CORROSSION TURN OFF RADIO FIRST TO KEEP FROM LOCKING IT OUT WHEN YOU DISCONNECT BATTERY CABLES.IF ALL IS GOOD.YOU HAVE WEAK BATTERY.HAVE IT CHARGED + CHECKED OR REPLACE BATTERY.CHECK ALTERNATOR OUT PUT.IT SHOULD BE 13.5 TO 14.5 VOLTS WITH ENGINE RUNNING.IF NOT CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND ALTERNATOR ELECTRICAL WIRES MAKE NOT LOOSE OR DAMAGED.MAKE SURE DRIVE BELT NOT LOOSE SLIPPING.

try the..grill support panel

chances are if they are squeaking they need to be replaced. you can try getting a needle tip for your grease gun and poking a hole in the boot, then fill it with grease until it runs out of the hole. that should stop the squeak

engine light on?if so obd 2 scan for fault and fix!

do u mean the speaker wires?

I'd bet that they blew the fuses that feed the starter/ignition as well - Locate the interior cab fuse box, and with the key in the "on" position. go through it with a test light (one end grounded, pointed end to each side of each of the fuses) and ensure all the fuses are good (if one side illuminates, both sides should, but not all of the fuses will be hot) - I'd also look under the hood and check the fuse links and other main fuses located there as well - -I'd bet you'll find one or more of them is bad or blown...Hope that helps...Hope you find it - Damn thieves...

Mada B series have always been excellent and trustworthy models. You can go to to the link posted below for owner reviews, pros&cons, ratings, pics, and more. (copy and paste in your browser)
From my experience, they are good trucks.

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2001-mazda-b-series-5.htm

No ...

Hello. It seems your truck's key fob/remote either has a low battery and/or is 'wearing out'. The computer/alarm becomes 'confused' and can't decide if it should 'arm' or 'disarm'. This also causes slow to no operation of your vehicle's door locks. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.