Top 20 2001 Mazda MPV Questions & Answers

Maybe the valve or distributor timing is off.

ITS LOCATED NEXT TO THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY . ITS A SIMPLE MATTER OF TAKING OUT THE OLD AND PUTTING IN THE NEW.

You either have air in the cooling system that needs to be bled out, or you have a head gasket leaking, allowing air to enter the cooling system from the cylinders. You can purchase a kit from most auto parts stores to check for exhaust gases in your coolant system.

looks like not enough fuel pressure, check the fuel filter.and the fuel pump pressure.with car running 60 psithe pump is located at the rear seat driver side you have to remove the carpet to access the cover. if the fuel pressure checked "OK" suspect defective maf sensor (sometimes defective maf sensor do not show errors codes)another way to test is disconecting the maf sensor and start the car (computer goes to limp in mode) and works little better,or check by scanner idle= low grams per seconds and increase when accelerate.

Possible faulty catalytic converter. The dealer will always be 2X as much as an outside shop. get a second opinion, but catalytic converters are expensive. (if that's the problem)

It sounds like your transmission is either not shifting down to first gear, or the lock up in the converter is not releasing. Amazon com Torque Converter Lock Up Solenoids Transmissions Parts...

we need more information like year make model of what vehicle you are talking about either repost or edit request

Your ground wire connection for the OBD2 connector is located under the dash just below and to the right of the heater controls. More likely that you dont have power to the connector. Check the 10 amp "ROOM" fuse in under dash fuse box.

You must have pulled the vehicle speed sensor wire off or damaged it in some way.

Sounds like you have either a leak in your windsheild or the frot cowl water is getting in and causing it to short your switches

AV button? flow through a VEN? read your questions, before posting. And ask a question... no question or description of what you are trying to resolve is posted.

It is not a fuse, it is a relay.

• TNS controls parking lights, tail lights and running lights.
• Not sure what TNS stands for but my guess would be "Taillight, Night Running lights and Stop light"
• Normally the TNS relay is powered by the taillight fuse and is energized when the headlight switch is turned on

Having said that I'm not sure why it would be cycling when the ignition switch is off. Could be a short to ground somewhere in the system. If you have had any work done I would have it rechecked, especially if you swapped out radios or added extra lighting somewhere. Other things you can try:

• Pull the taillight fuse. The TNS should not have power and the lights will not work.
• If the TNS is a removable type of relay pull it out and see if you still hear something clicking
• With the relay pulled check the base. The coil side should have 12vdc to ground on one side. the other side should not have continuity to ground with the headlight switch off.
• If there are other relays in the box of the same type, try swapping them out and see fir the problem follows the relay.

While these things will not fix the problem it may help diagnose the underlying problem.

If that was the only change that was made to the heating system by adding a stop leak then very probable that a part of the heater core has been plugged up with the additive. Unusual that it would affect only one of the vents but quite possible. There is not a way to change the heat level to individual ducts on that model vehicle mechanically.

Hope this helps

Dealer item. If you can fabricate it from copper, Yes it will work. It will last longer than the tube they use.

No, not the ECM. Replace the alternator. The ECM fields/grounds the alternator to work. The ECM monitors the voltage and sets the light if voltage is to low or to high. Since it puts out 16+ volts the ECM is still working. The regulator in the alternator is bad.

Best case is you accidentally left the AC switch on... Check for pinched/bent hoses near firewall of passenger side. Worst case is the heater core is clogged. In this case someone can backflush the heater core to clear it. Good luck!

W age of car..hard startn cud be a tuneup issue..bad dist cap..plug wires..fuel pressure reg or pump..git a data stream run w a factory scan tool....at a private shop only...for correctness n detail

I recently changed my brake light and all you need to do is remove two phillips screws from the brake panel light then carefully pry the corner using hard flat object to gain access to the light bulb.

The clicking you hear is the vehicle asking for the program sequence to reprogram the locking system. Apparently something threw it out of sequence, ( a battery change , jumpstart, voltage spike , etc). The programming sequence that mazda uses is really kinda crazy. I was able to locate the sequence to try. If it does not work have the dealership flash the pcm, (another word for reprogram the powertrain control module). Here is the sequence: 1) Get in MPV with ignition key, and all fobs for the vehicle. 2) Close all doors and remove ignition key if it is in ignition. 3) Open driver's door Note: Steps 4 and 5 must be completed in under thirty seconds. 4) Repeat the following three times a) Insert ignition key b)Turn ignition switch to on and then to lock c) Remove ignition key 5) Repeat the following three times a) Close driver's door b) Open driver's door Locks should all lock and then unlock within a couple of seconds--you'll hear the clicking sound 6) Press any button two times within five seconds on fob being programmed. Locks should again lock and unlock 7) Repeat step 6 for all other fobs being programmed. When done with last fob, wait a few seconds and then you should be done with the reprogramming. Each fob should now work for this vehicle.