BATTERY LIGHT STAYS ON. NEW BATTERY. ALTERNATOR CHARGING OK Ever since I replaced the battery (a couple of months ago) I have been having an intermittent problem with the battery not charging. It was more severe immediately after the battery was installed, then seemed to disappear for awhile. Here are the usual conditions when the problem occurs: -The car has not been started for awhile. -I am just pulling away from a standstill. -The battery warning light on the dash comes on, goes off if I ease off the gas, then goes on when I step on the gas, but low speeds only and eventually goes off. This past Friday I took it to a dealer and they did a diagnostic with the computer but found no problem. They did not road test it. They suggested a new alternator for over $800. When I picked up the vehicle from the dealer they had left the lights on and I had a dead battery. After a boost from one of the sales staff I got it started. No battery warning light indicator. So I drove it for awhile to get a charge on the battery. The light stayed off. Saturday morning I started it but the battery light came on and stayed on. I parked the car and road with someone else (I was working a trade show out of town). Sunday it still starts but still have battery warning light, leave it parked. Monday I was prepared to take it to a repair shop, but no battery warning light. As I started to drive it did blink on a couple of times, then stayed off and I drove the vehicle home (5 hour drive). I made stops for food and gas with no problems. I've considered bad alternator, slipping belt, bad pulley clutch, regulator, loose cable, and wiring harness as possible problems. Today I had a rebuilt alternator installed but the warning light still came on, and is staying on. The mechanic said his test equipment shows that the replacement alternator is charging. He was able to remove the ground cable from the battery while the engine was running and the engine kept running. With the battery connected and the engine running the mechanic says he only measures about 12 volts on the battery terminals. Replacing the alternator should have resolved the first four items I listed. There are no obvious loose wires or cables. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot this? Is the charging system actually working and the battery warning light is a false alarms (ie. needs repair)?
i believe your over charging ie; voltage regulator bad. should only have between 12-14.5 volts max when testing at bat with volt meter
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
fuel pump went out replaced it now car will still not start was told there is a reset switch but can't locate it
It is typically located in the rear of the vehicle in one of the side compartments. It has a red button on it. I would also check the fuel pump fuse, and relay.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
need to know what this code is, error code P0431 and how to fix it
P0431 Left Hand Warm-up Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
mazda tribute firing order. I have miss fire in the # 5 but I dont have the order.
You didn't post your engine size so please pick the applicable diagram:
2001 Mazda Tribute DX 2WD
3.0 liter DOHC V-6
2001 Mazda Tribute DX 4WD
2.0 liter DOHC L4
2wd or 4wd...it is still the same for the V6.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
I am getting a P0031, P1512, & P0421 code on my 2001 Mazda MPV mini van.
P0031 - most likely pointing to a failed O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1 is located before the catalytic converter)
P0421 - failed catalytic converter or a failed O2 sensor
P1512 - intake manifold shutter valve is stuck - may be caused by the O2 sensor, but may not
I recommend replacing your O2 sensor first and see what happens
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
serpentine belt diagram Mazda MPV
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway. You may want to Print the Diagrams for future use.
CLICK on the following LINK. It has the Belt Diagrams you will need.
If you would: Before Clicking: Let me know if this helped you, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Again my apologies...
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2001/make/mazda/model/mpv/2001_mazda_mpv_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm
Posted on Mar 06, 2010
mazda MPV 2001, code P1518 , and P1512, what is the problem?
After extensive searching and trial and error I found that the cause for the code 1518 on my mazda mpv was caused by the plastic clip that holds the linkage for the intake manifold runner had broke on the fire wall side and the linkage fell out causing the runner to stay open. It is very difficult to see. It is on the front( drivers side) of the engine below the upper intake manifold. Remove the air cleaner box and use a mirror and you can see it. Only about 6 inches long. Replace both clips while you are in there because it is a bear to get to. Check this first before you go through the other items like the egr. Inexpensive repair and my code 1518 and the one for randon miss fire went away never to return. Lots of power again. Good luck. Jim
Posted on Aug 14, 2014
I understand that dtc p1512 is very common on these mpv mazda's. In reading I also see it is sometimes but not always accompanied by a fan curcuit related error message dtc. I figured I save some time knowing I have two mpv's booked for Tuesday, one with p1512 by it's self with the second van having p1512 accompanied by a rad fame curcuit dtc, ( can't remember exact #), p0???. Freeze frame stored for rad fan code but will recheck after resetting ecm until returnig for more diagnostics.
Hi.
P1512 is stored when the Intake Manifold Runner Control shutter (IMRC ) valve is stuck closed.
The IMRC valve is opened by an actuator located behind the radiator, on top of valve cover.
The IMRC actuator is controlled by the PCM (main computer), and it is wired to
The actuator is connected to a 5-volt Black/Blue wire used to send the position switch voltage signal, and a Brown/White ground wire. When the IMRC actuator is closing the valves in the intake manifold, the switch should open, and the Black/Blue wire at the IMRC actuator should read 5 volts. If that does not happen, and you get the CEL, then the problem is the valve.
Repair is done testing and replacing faulty part, or replacing both valve and actuator.
About radiator fan problem, I do not think that they are related, first get rid of the shutter valve code that can have several side effects.
Also, as this is a very common problem I suggest calling Mazda and finding out if there is any cover on this repair.
Posted on Sep 06, 2010
NEED TO KNOW THE SPARKS WIRE DIAGRAM MAZDA MPV 2000 ENGINE 2.5
Here is a firing order diagram to help assist you, let me know if you require any further assistance.
Posted on Nov 29, 2010
P1512 of my 00 MPV, what is the solution?
DTC P1512 - VARIABLE TUMBLE CONTROL SYSTEM (VTCS), STUCK CLOSED
The air intake hose that goes from the air filter/mass airflow sensor to the throttle body they are common to crack. This air leak can cause a lean condition if that checks out ok then the issue is usually a faulty mass air flow sensor .This would need to be checked next.
Usually the actuator valve is stuck closed. These are the most common causes of the P1512 and possible causes are:
* ECT sensor malfunction.
*
MAF sensor malfunction.
* IAT sensor malfunction.
* EGR boost sensor
malfunction
* TP sensor malfunction.
* CKP sensor malfunction
* VTCS
solenoid valve malfunction.
* VTCS shutter valve stuck closed.
* VTCS
shutter valve actuator stuck closed.
* Short circuit between PCM and
VCTS solenoid valve.
* PCM malfunction.
I would start with the mass air
flow sensor this can cause all these issues. Then the cat. This would be
the next step.
I hope this helped (remember to rate and comment this answer).
Posted on Aug 15, 2011
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