Top 10 1998 Mazda 626 Questions & Answers

I had this problem a few years ago. Get it checked out right away. I didn't and I ended up having to replace my transmission.

b_bro

Check the Fuel injection system (injectors) and the intake manifold. It might also be wise to check the alternator as well as the starter coil and also the electronic distributor

the best thing you can do is go to an autoparts store and purchase a haynes repair manual for your car. cost about $18, but will show you everything you need to know, with pictures.

I have the same problem with my car I think its the torque converter clutch but you should visit a diagonestic machine just to find out

The front bearings on a mazda 626 are sealed and you must remove the entire hub assembly to have a shop or dealer install the bearings. The hardest part is you need to remove the center axel nut and it is very tight and is called a stake nut. If you do not have a fairly good amout of skill at repairs, this is one job that is safest left to the pros. Just one missed step can create more damage than you could beleive.

You will definately have to drop the tank. Remove gas cap to relieve pressure, then remove gas lines, gas straps, remove bolts, lower tank. Use only a BRASS punch and hammer and knock ring loose counter clockwise, then pump and sending unit will pull out. and you can disconnect and change your pump.

go to autzone.com and register for full free online repair manual

1993-98 626/MX-6/Probe Models

2.0L ENGINE
(see Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the fresh air duct and resonance chamber.
   

Fig. 5: To remove the starter motor, first remove any obstructing components, then loosen the upper starter motor attaching bolts



Fig. 6: Remove both upper bolts before going under the vehicle to finish the removal procedure

1. Label and disconnect the electrical connectors and remove the air cleaner assembly.
   
2. Remove the intake manifold bracket.
   

Fig. 7: Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle, then label and detach any plug-on wire connectors



Fig. 8: Using the proper size socket or wrench, remove the battery positive wire retaining nut ...



Fig. 9: ...and the wire terminal from the starter

1. Label and disconnect the wiring at the starter.
2. Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove the starter.

Fig. 10: Remove the lower starter motor mounting bolt and carefully lower the starter and remove it from the vehicle

1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the starter mounting bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (3 Nm) and the intake manifold bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).

2.5L ENGINE

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the fresh air duct. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the air cleaner assembly.
3. If equipped with automatic transaxle, proceed as follows:
   1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Drain the cooling system.
   2. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body. Label and disconnect the electrical connectors, vacuum hoses and coolant hoses from the throttle body.
   3. Remove the throttle body.
   4. Disconnect and plug the fuel supply and return lines.
   5. Disconnect the transaxle selector cable from the transaxle and remove the cable bracket.
   6. Remove the starter bracket.
      
4. Label and disconnect the wiring at the starter.
5. Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove the starter.
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the starter mounting bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).

Hope this help (remember comment and rated this help). TY for using Fixya.

you might find the fuse diagram on the inside the fuse box cover under the hood......hope this helps.....cheers

Could either be your shifting linkage needs to be adjusted or your transmission solenoids need to be replaced

code p2195, air fuel sensor b1s1 bad. Change the sensor and you will restore the power. Lack of HO2s11 means it is running lean. Change the sensor.