20 Most Recent 1994 Dodge Shadow - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Yes!

have the OBD error codes read and report back.

No adjustment.
I had a 1991 Acclaim that the same thing happened. I was able to get the thing to move to the lock position and remove the key.
I had to replace the ignition assembly.

Sobrien.

If the car is overheating, especially in cool/cold weather you have a serious problem which needs to be addressed immediately. I very much doubt that the coolant temperature gauge is giving an incorrect reading and if you drive the vehicle with this problem you are risking expensive engine damage. In any event a mechanic can easily use another water temp gauge to check if the gauge in the car is giving a faulty reading.

If the thermostat has been removed - as you say - then there is nothing mechanical isolating/blocking the full flow of coolant between the radiator and engine despite the engine operating temperature.

Removing a thermo because of a previous overheating problem is not a sensible move because it does not address the underlying cooling problem issues. An old or faulty thermo should always be replaced with a new one and the causes of the overheating investigated and fixed. The fact that the thermo has been removed suggests that there was a cooling problem previously and it is likely that it was not due to a sticking thermostat.

Overheating can be caused by and one or more of the following:

1. Low coolant level. Check the coolant and top up. All coolant hoses (including heater hoses) need to be checked for deterioration and leakage. Suspect hoses need to be replaced .

2. A sticking thermostat which impedes the flow of coolant between the radiator and the engine when the engine warms up. A new thermostat needs to be fitted.

3. Debris in the coolant which is impeding coolant flow through the engine. Coolant needs to be changed every 2 years and the system flushed to avoid this problem and to address deterioration of the coolant mix.

4. Air locks in the cooling system from the inadequate bleeding of air from the system.

5. A faulty / corroded water pump. If the water pump has never been changed or you have no record of it being changed in the last few years then it needs to be removed, checked and replaced unless in good condition. A faulty water pump cannot push coolant through the system (or flow it fast enough) and your engine will definitely overheat.

A badly tuned engine can also cause an engine overheating problem in certain circumstances but in your case I suspect the issue is definitely with the cooling system as outlined above.

We cannot test and inspect your car so it is not possible to identify the exact cause of the problem in your case. I hope this helps and please get it checked out straight away by a reputable auto shop. Otherwise you are risking expensive engine damage and having to replace the vehicle entirely.

Cheers

its in slo t #2 far left second from bottom,

It's not a switch or hoses. Make sure your fluid level is correct; it should be measured when hot (like too hot to touch the dipstick.) Assuming you have fluid of the correct sort and amount:
If it is a three-speed, the trans is bad. If it is a four-speed, the trans is almost certainly bad, but there is a slight chance of a computer malfunction - computers shift the 4-speed trannies. The 3-speeds are tougher and cheaper, but generally speaking give worse fuel economy.

if the basics have been done check the timing, i have seen a few of these cars the camshaft breaks, quick way is just do a compression check on each cylinder, check for fuel pressure and enough spark is coming out of the coil.

you will have to get a manual

where the hoses go in at the firewall. The heater core hose connection stick out for the hoses. So, Figuer the clove box will have to come out and whatever is in the way, Good Luck

Signs the fuel pump maybe getting bad you local autoparts store like autozone,advance auto parts, murrays may have a tool you can get on loan to presser check the system similar to checking the air in your tires if the gauge reads low you know your answer and it will be cheaper then a shop checking it

have ya checked the fuses?? broken or loose wire no ground for pump. the pump is in the tank right?

no it would be locked up, due to the two metals have bonded together

the throttle valve is loaded with carbon remove large rubber hose going into intake manifold and spray out with carburetor cleaner then work throttle open and closed that should do it if it doesn't replace throttle cable it is also possible transmission kick down cable if present is stuck but unlikely

the OEM battery from the dealer or a Delco

first things first...NEVER use ether in a gasoline engine! you can blow the cam and crank seals, and even the head gasket! Ether is like **** to any engine, and once you start using it, the engine becomes addicted to it, because the computer and sensors will become programmed to the excessive combustion temperatures and pressures. That is probably what has happened, one or more sensors are probably screwed up, namely the mass air flow sensor.

check to see if you have 12 volts into the coil...the coil fires based on engine RPMs (trigger), you can check for this at coil while cranking. you are looking for a test light to flash on and off quickly while cranking..if all is good check underside of cap for carbon tracking (dark thin lines in plastic)...good luck, let me know marty

I just posted about this. The ignition might be messed up when the key is on it supplies power to the 2nd column of fuses except the one closest to the floor. They decided to make a new wiring scheme when they couldn't fix this in the car I bought. WHAT A MESS. Goto a jobber parts store or junk yard pick up a ignition switch about $50 new jobber. Then you will need a T20 Torx screwdriver to get the shroud off and I think the next size smaller to get the ignition off.

That might help but before doing this jump one of the other power inputs from another column to the second column (unscrewing the fuse box from it's mounts is necessary) If the heater works you know that's the problem.

Test each pin on your fuses in the second column with a test light.
Someone put a command start in mine and and burnt the accesory power switch for when the key comes on. (in the ignition) All the fuses in that block do not get power. The heater is in there.

check your wire harness with a voltmeter and check to see if all wires have power. If that doesn't work check your ground wire's.