1992 Dodge Spirit - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check all ground wires for corrosion...clean and re-tighten.You could also use some dieelectric grease on them before re-tightening.

That really depends on your engine size. The 2.2L 4 cyl with and without turbo needs a rectangular the 3L 6 cyl needs rectangular the 2.5L 4 cyl needs round. Really need to know what engine to be able to answer your question. Semper Fi, Z

you can go to the junk yard and get another barrel assembly , but you run the risk that you will have top reprogram the immobilizer It may be cheaper to get a locksmith involved to fit a new barrel keyed to your existing key and that way the expense of programming the key to the immobilizer is avoided

probably needs the catylitic convertor replaced

Lean Fuel Mixture Defective EGR System Defective Catalytic Converter (CAT) High Engine Mileage Engine Overheating

Remove Bolts Drop Pan, Clean all serfaces, Apply Gasket sealer /Gasket replace bolts tighten to 23 IN pounds/ Add Recommended Oil, Run to Check for Leaks, Probably 1 hour will show any leaks if not done Properly

Look under the hood to see some bare cables that connect the throttle pedal to the throttle body. Turn the idle screw clockwise 1/2 revolution at a time. Start the car, let it warm up and try it. Make sure the rpms aren't above 750 RPM or you'll risk crashing into someone. All this is assuming the car is in good tune, running well, has no major issues etc. These cars were pretty cheap and cheaply made so you may be limited by the age and lack of durability

Wiring or connectors to horns are bad or disconnected, or most probably, the horns are bad from corrosion.

Could be the trasmission safety switch, that prevents engine starting in gear, and allows it on PARK and NEUTRAL...

Could be several things: if the computer is not receiving enough cooling air, it can shutdown to self protect. Another possibility, is the condition called "Vapor lock", where the engine does not receive liquid fuel because of the heat causing it to vaporize, specially if the fuel regulator has problems. Another could be the ignition coil failing when overly hot. ]without more info, it is impossible to know.

Either you installed it wrongly, or the cap is old and the carbon contact inside is too worn; or you inadvertently damaged the distributor wiring exiting from the base of the cap, since old wiring insulation gets hard and brittle.

Get a HAYNES or CHILTON manual. Is has all tghe steps and tightening torque values. The usual tightening sequence is to start at the center bolt, follow with the center one opposite to it, then follow an spiral going out until you reach the last bolt. As usual, you need to do it in three steps, with a decent torque wrench.

You need to realign the tracks. Get a HAYNES or Chilton manual, it has the complete procedure.

The electrical mechanism has a rotating arm with a wiper contact, whose objective is to prevent the wipers stopping in the middle of their travel, thus this small wiper contact continues to supply current to the wiper's motor until they reach the end position. From time to time, the wiper (or the electrical track support) rotates out of proper alignment, and just keeps the winshield wipers running. you need to disassemble the motor of the wipers, inside there is a small arm with a contact point, it need to be realigned. It is not difficult, but some dexterity is needed to be able to properly reassemble the motor.

Well the power comes from a 30amp fuse which is hot in the run position. So it originates at the key switch. The key switch may be faulty or it could be in the wiring between the switch and the fuse box.

Under the dashboard should be a fuse panel and some turn signal flashers. All of these are likely under the dash near the driver's knees. Check the fuses first. (Probably not that), then try the turn signal flasher. If your 4-way flasher is working, turn it on and take a flashlight and look up under the dash.This will not be easy. If you can locate the 4-way flasher by the clicking sound it is making, the turn signal flasher should be really near it. They are often side-by-side. If you will take it out, I hope a new one will fix it. Be blessed.

first, test the fan for operation by disconnecting it at the closest plug to the fan itself, then using a couple of loose wires as jumpers, connect the fan to a remote power source like a battery charger or another battery thats got power..it the fan works its good, if not, replace it, if it works then you need to check other things from your ac fuses to all the connections from the ac compressor, all the way to messing with the heater controls..usually if the main control is set to defrost, the override for the fan relay will kick in..mine does.. the fan relay is ocated up on the drivers side fender well in a cluster of 3 -4 relays that look identical but are internally wired different..also be sure the engines temperature sensor(s) are good,,one of these may be a multi wired unit for the fan specifically,,some models vary in the same year...check all connections as road dirt and debris does enter the engine compartment from below, look for corrosion and broken wires..in an emergency like on the hiway, usually the airflow is good enough to keep the car within operating temps..good luck..

I have experienced this myself. try turning off the ac controls because there is a function in the cycle of the ac system that raises the engine idle to run the ac compressor.as long as its on, the engine idle is raised slightly, and higher when warmed up. also, if you tap the gas momentarily it may "kick down" but takes a few seconds to slow down..now if this doesnt work, try this trick..you can remove the negative battery cable with the key in the "run" position,(motor not running), then shut the key off and re-connect the battery.. turn the key on for a few seconds...(this resets the factory presets in the on board computer and the issue may be resolved) also there is a manual reset idle screw located on the back of the t.b.i. unit that controls the basic idle speed. mine is a nut over a slotted stud that gets turned to make the adjustment with a screwdriver and once done locked back by the nut. gotta remove the aircleaner housing to see it behind where the accelerator cables hook up to the tbi unit...good luck hope your not confused by all this...my car has over 300000 miles on it..the original engine and been rebuilt totally at least twice..3 head gaskets, 4 timing belts, and on its second gas tank.pump went bad in the first one, and changing the tank was cheaper than doing the pump alone.right now my issue is that my key part of the ignition fell out of my steering column so I am left starting the car with a screwdriver(what fun!!!) and my speedometer dont work because the sensor went bad and the cruise dont work either as a result. gotta spend a day at the junkyard for parts to fix it..part of the fun of older cars....good luck..jerome

remove bolt. and two attached tubes. replace new part. reattach tubes and bolt. easy peasy.

its located under rear driver door. one bolt removes it. detach tubes. reinstall new part.