20 Most Recent 1994 Dodge Spirit Questions & Answers

How long since overall tune-up? Did you check for applicable trouble codes? You should be able to check some codes, yourself. Cycle the key, on--off, on--off, on, then the check engine lite on the dash starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit code, example, a code 24, is two quick flashes a slight pause then four flashes. If I replace an ignition coil, I usually replace spark plugs and plug wires, also. Could be other issues besides spark?

You can place a jack anywhere on the frame. Don't work underneath your car unless you also put jack stands under it in case the jack fails.

There is a door in your air intake that is thermoststicly controlledthat is to remain partially closed until tge engine warms up.Thereby letting in cold air on a cold engine, causing it to run rough.

Hi, Im AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair. I actually own a 1995 Dodge Spirit 3.0 and its not to difficult. The hardest part is removing the bracket on the transmission so you can remove the dust cover for the flywheel. (1) Drain the oil. (2) Remove the transmission bracket and the dust cover. (3) Remover all the pan bolts except one, just loosen this one so you can pry the pan off, because the pan will be stuck on. (4) Clean the engine block and the oil pan very clean. (5) Install the gasket OR sealer which ever it calls for and install the pan and fill with new oil and filter. Hope this helps and please visit my Auto-Repair-Website: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

3.3L and 3.8L Engines

1. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
2. Remove the right front wheel and inner splash shield.
3. Remove the accessory drive belt from the engine.
4. Remove the center bolt of the crankshaft pulley.
5. Using a claw-type gear puller, remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft. When using the puller, make certain that the claws are situated on the inner section of the pulley. If the claws are used on the outer section of the pulley, the pulley will be damaged.
6. Use tool C-4991 or the equivalent to remove the oil seal from the timing chain cover. Make certain not to damage the crankshaft seal surface of the cover. Fig. 10: Use a claw-type gear puller to remove the crankshaft pulley/damper — 3.3L and 3.8L engines
   Fig. 11: Use the seal remover tool C-4991 to remove the crankshaft oil seal — 3.3L and 3.8L engines
   To install:
   
7. Install the new seal by using tool C-4992 or the equivalent. Place the seal into the opening with the seal spring towards the inside of the engine. Install the seal until flush with the cover.
8. To install the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft a 5.9 in. (150mm) long bolt, a thrust bearing and washer, and plate L-4524 or equivalent.
   1. Tap the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft with a rubber or plastic mallet making sure to hit the pulley on the center portion.
   2. Once the pulley is started onto the crankshaft, install a nut the thrust bearing and washer, and the plate L-4524 onto the bolt.
   3. Thread the bolt into the end of the crankshaft and screw it in at least 2 or 3 complete turns.
   4. Tighten down on the nut on the bolt to slowly press the pulley onto the crankshaft until completely seated.
   5. Remove the bolt, nut, washer and thrust bearing, and plate L-4524 from the crankshaft. Fig. 12: Installing the crankshaft pulley — 3.3L and 3.8L engines
      
   
   
9. Install the center crankshaft pulley bolt and tighten it to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
10. Install the accessory drive belt and tighten by following the instructions in Section 1.
11. Install the splash shield and front wheel.
12. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Can be several things: Loose terminal connections to solenoid, corroded terminals or wires, bad solenoid with burned coil or pitted contacts. Lastly, a too worn out key switch. To find out, test proper (12VDC) voltage at solenoid coil terminal, check for a bad ground too. Then test wiring between key switch and starter. Some power feeds are fed from fusible link harness behind battery box. For the age of the car, there could be some corrosion on terminals or even corroded and broken fusible wires because of nearness of battery acid vapors tend to eat near wiring slowly. My two cents. Amclaussen.

Hi, by the looks of it u quite handy, try google...type in the search bar make model year and the problem. You should be able to find instructions....

You should buy an old haynes manual or pay the dealer for a diagram, should be real easy information to find. Probably not gonna get someone to know or post the info here

Without telling us WHICH contaminants did it exceed, very little can be thought! BE MORE SPECIFIC!

Bad engine and transmission mounts.

There is no pick-up line in the Spirit: the pump is articulated to swing up and down to follow the fuel level. If stuck, it could be. But another possibility is a clogged inlet mesh, so that when the fuel level drops, the pump cannot continue suctioning. One thing is for sure: one of the very few thing that the excellently reliable Spirit and Acclaim models that can be troublesome, is the fuel pump. As a general recommendation on these cars (and all of the same platform, like the Shadow and Le-Baron) is to never let the car run on the last part of the tank, try to keep it always above 1/4, because the fuel pump is sensitive to low suction conditions. The tank is removed letting it go down to the floor. Take the advantage and perform a full tank cleaning and washing (water and detergent), complete flushing with a Karcher or any other high pressure washer, and finish drying it with a hair drier blowing into each of the two large openings. After meny miles and years, the fuel pump could be replaced, and the old one kept as spare. The new one should endure for 10 more years!

It does, just fing the proper page!

Most probably, due to the age of the car, the FUSIBLE LINKS that are pieces of wire with a high temperature insulation, located at the back of the battery, corrode with the battery acid vapors, and fail. I resorted to install a 40 AMP fuse holder, like the ones used by high power stereo installers, and some fuses. It was much easier than trying to get the original fusible wire. I just cut the failed section and placed the inline fuse holder in its place. The other usual failure is on a wire connector ta that same place, that gets corroded or fatigued and fails to make a good connection. As I replaced the fusible link with the described fuse holder, I got rid othe corroded connector. I did that about three years ago on my 1991, and it has been a success.