20 Most Recent 2001 Chevrolet Monte Carlo - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Lifters tap because of low oil pressure. Or extreme amount of dirt. Either way it goes to the crank bearings. Replace the engine.

A common problem with this generation of MC's is the ISS, or intermediate steering shaft. The shaft turns with the wheels and does exactly what you describe. If it isn't too far gone, a repair shop can do a lube job on it and some more parts on your front end to fix the symptom. If it is too far gone, you will need a new ISS. There are other front end problems (power steering, wheel hubs, axles, brake rotors, etc.) that will cause similar noises and symptoms. If you aren't highly skilled and mechanically inclined, it is much better to just take the car into a repair shop for a diagnosis and/or estimate than to throw parts and labor at the general area. If somebody makes a bad judgement or two, the cost of replacing parts that do not eliminate the root cause will quickly add up to more than the cost of a proper repair. Not to mention the time involved.

Check if switch is broken with an ohm meter (unplug it first). The motor may also be blown out. If you have the confidence, open the door panel and remove these parts & test them.

You have to bleed the air out of the system. There are 1 maybe 2 bleeders on the front of the engine on the cooling system bypass pipe one near the upper hose the the othe on the drivers side of the pipe. They are brass with a small bleeder valve in the middle. Get the car up to temperature and take your time to allow all the air out. Refill cooling system after it cools. Hope you didn't do any damage running it hot.

You have a cable that goes from the shifter to the tranny it sounds like the cable is getting ready to break I would get it checked soon before you get stuck some where

Front pump in the transmission is not producing fluid pressure to operate the internal parts of the transmission. Have the fluid AND the filter in the pan replaced first. If that doesn't solve the problem, then an overhaul is in order.

try a pressure test on the radiator while it engine is running.. If your head gasket is broken the compression of the engine goes into the cooling system. If the pressure rapidy increases it would indicate a head gasket problem.

http://www.sullivantire.com/tires/tire-pressure-monitoring-system.aspx

1. Empty the radiator 2. disconnect top and lower hoses on the radiator. 3. remove plastic cowling, (should be an upper and lower half with two bolts on each side. There may be an upper plastic cowling as well that will have to be removed. 4. sometimes you can work around the fan, if not remove the fan belt and fan. Make a drawing of how the serpentine belt goes on if it has a serpentine belt. There should be a tension wheel on the belt used for removal and installation of the belt. Be very carefull of your fingers when removing and installing the belt. 5. Remove the four or six bolts that hold the radiator on and lift the radiator out. It may be easier with two people to lift the radiator out. GOOD LUCK, IT'S NOT A VERY HARD JOB AND ONCE YOU'VE DONE IT ONCE IT GOES PRETTY FAST.

I had the same problem i had a manual shut off switch installed where i could turn the fan off and on from my dash by the steering column

I have found the staff of your local Auto Zone, Napa, Auto Parts stores may know who with in their location has knowledge/back ground in such issues, and if not are usually familiar with the local repair shops that do; hence repair shops usually allocate their parts from local suppliers.

Try shutting it off with the door key . Lock and unlock the drivers door with it.

you need some Equipment out of price . have mechanic do it for you

OIL PAN Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove engine torque strut. Raise and support vehicle. Drain crankcase. Disconnect oil level sensor electrical connector. Remove oil level sensor and oil filter. Disconnect front exhaust pipe from manifold. Remove right front wheel and splash shield. 2. Disconnect oil cooler pipes. Disconnect A/C compressor electrical connector. Remove A/C compressor, and position aside. Disconnect engine mounts from frame. 3. Remove flexplate access cover. Use transmission jack at transaxle to raise engine. Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan. To install, reverse removal procedure. Install oil level sensor after oil pan is installed. Tighten retaining bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.

If the oil pan will clear the steering components without jacking up the engine then drop the pan and unbolt the oil pump. You'll need to get a new pan gasket for the oil pan too.

Is non Only on ford & mazda

passenger side panel of the dash, the cover should have number for locations of fuses and what circuit they are for, if you don't find your problem there look for the fuse panel under the hood

Check for bad fuel, but it sounds like it might be spark plugs or spark plug wires breaking down and cross firing or missing. If it is electrical you should have a rougher idle also.

might be worth starting with a wiggle test if you don't have access to any diagnostics. engine running and as suggested, careful of moving parts just go round the engine bay giving the loom/wiring a wiggle to see if you can re-create the fault. Jon

May be the dimmer switch. Also, the wiring plugs were susceptible to corrosion where they connect. You may want to check the connections