20 Most Recent 2001 Mercedes-Benz C-Class - Page 2 Questions & Answers

You may have a draw in the car. Will it jump start? Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

The first thing you do is have the engine control module scanned for fault codes. I also suggest you buy a can of spray throttle valve cleaner and clean the throttle valve and the idle speed control valve.

• B1025 Component B48 (Front Passenger Seat Occupied and Child Seat Recognition) is faulty

Hi,becouse the lot isnt working I would say at a gess mind you that it could be a brake in the wireing loom,if there is it could be where it goes from the body into the door,you will have to take the door card off and get a screwdriver with a light in it with a wire and crocadile clip,and see if the light lights up when you put it to something that should have power when switched on and working,try the window motor first,if it dosnt have power see if there is power at the switch on the wire side to the window motor the falt wont be in the when window switch is prest if there is power then like I sied before ther must be a brake in the wire loom,if there is no power try checking for power on the other side off the window switch then the falt wont be in the loom,hope this was some help,all the best

Check and see if rear brake lights are not working. If not working brake pedal switch id defective. Do Not go to dealer for repair. The will charge you over $100 for diagnostics and over $200 to replace switch. Go to reliable parts store purchase after market switch for between $16 and $35. Go to a local mechanic and have him put it in for you, labor will be about 1/2 hour or less. There is a small "door" located near the gear shift indicator on the console. It is about as large as a standard ball point pen. Using a ball point pen, insert it through the spring loaded door and gently pushing straight down while pressing on the brake pedal, you can now move gear shift lever out of part into reverse, neutral or drive. You will need to repeat this process until you replace the brake pedal switch.

Is their transmission fluid in their? Maybe a fault with the Transmission Control Board and Electronic Shift Module. may have to replace it.Sometimes the trans. leaks fluid on the module and ruins the circuits. If it's an auto transmission try If you have a late model c-class/clk and you can't shift it out of Park (P), try this... Open up the armrest/ storage compartment in the centre console, behind the gear shifter. Pull out the black liner thing at the front of the compartment. You should now see a hole in the front wall of the compartment where you just pulled the liner out. insert a suitably sized ***** driver until you feel it stop on something inside the hole. Now, grab the gear lever and pull it out of park while at the same time pushing the ***** driver against the thing that stopped it. This should activate the emergency release allowing you to drive the car but be warned, if you don't take the car to a garage to get the problem fixed then you will have to do this every time you want to drive the car.

hi, this could be either fixed on your onboard computer by switching the ESP function back on, or you will have to check your rear break sensors for possible replacement.

It is a body control module

No you need to have any key programming done by a dealer.

https://youtu.be/p02TOPwLlFc

not a faulty rear sam more likely a poor bulb holder clean the area that the bulb sits in

sounds like there might be a control module issue, might be the BCM.Alternatively, related to the same issue, it is possible your vehicle has gone into safe mode if the engine/transmission sensors have detected a potential problem it allows you only into first gear until the problem receives attention. You probably need to take it to a manufacturer's technician for electronic diagnosis I think

I doubt there is one specific place. You need to remove the air from the system by allowing it to escape from the twists and turns of the system hoses. Most vehicles have a small bleed point or 2 at a high spot where you can let out the air. Trace the water system and loosen a hose at a high point. Run at idle. Don't fit the rad cap at this stage and only run when cool or cold. If you look in the header tank you can usually see a return flow of water. When the flow is steady run the engine long enough for the thermostat to start opening and be ready to top up the header tank. The level may fall suddenly when the air is pushed out of the heater system back to the tank. When the heater blower is pushing warm air check the tank level and fit the rad cap. Go for a run up to operating temp, come home, allow to cool until rad cap is safe to release, check level and top up if necc. Don't run the system at all without anti freeze to the correct percentage, usually 30% at least, or summer coolant mix if in the lower states.

don't understand what you mean