Top 20 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport - Page 9 Questions & Answers

It is the brakes , they are locked up. To find which one when you drive it a short distance feel the wheel for heat. The hottest one in the one locked up. Be careful they can get really hot fast. Probably the brake hoses. I would replace them all. Could also be a caliper. To check for this raise the tire, take it off and release the pressure on the caliper. either the bleeder valve or brake hose. if the rotor can then be turned by hand then the caliper is ok.

105k if its not a Turbo, heres the maintenance link http://www.mitsubishicars.com/media/owners/pdf/2011_Maintenance_Schedule_Non_Turbo.pdf it says 2011 , but thats the time of printing, its for all Mitsubishi vehicles except the 4B1 motor,, which I don't know if you have or not

Hi, if you have full pressure (40-50 PSI on low pressure side with engine running A/C set to maximum and blowing) you have enough pressure, but there is air in the system which degrades the refrigerant leading to no cold air. To remedy this, you must completely discarge the system and refil with new R134a which has the compressor/system oil added to it.
To discharge the system, shut off motor, attach your filler hose to low pressure valve and allow system to drain. (squeeze handle if you have that type filler hose) Allow it to drain until no sound of escaping air is present. Be careful not to have the end of hose facing you or others, wear gloves and have some shop rags laid down, pointing nozzle toward rags, that stuff can damage paint and skin and may be cold when escaping. After system has completely drained, start the refil process with engine running, A/C on maximum, blower on full. After about 1/2 of the first can of R134a or 1 full can, your compressor should kick on. Continue refilling with 3-4 cans total (about 3 LBS total) until you have a reading of 45 or so PSI. After each can, allow refrigerent to cycle through the system about 3 minutes to obtain an accuret pressure reading. Pressure is relavent to outside temperature also, optimumly the ambient air temp. outside vehicle should be between 72 and 80 degrees F. for proper reading. That should get you blowing cold air again!
Please rate this answer! Thanks, Mike

this sounds like a loose or worn belt possibly a belt tensioner also that needs attention.sometimes if a bearing gets bad like an alternator bearing can make a noise.

Hi, the problem most likely lies in the car's central computer or ABS sensor, but it can also be from something else in the brake or electrical system.
Disconnect the positive cable from the car battery, and then hold down on the brake pedal to drain the car's electrical system. This will reset the car's central computer. Plug the positive cable back to restore the power. Even if this doesn't totally reset the light, it should stay off for up to 1 week.

Change the ABS sensor if the light comes back on. Unscrew the housing for the sensor that is mounted to the wheel hub and unplug the wire, then attach and mount a new sensor. You might need to reset the computer again as described above.

Connect an OBD code reader to your car's on-board diagnostics system to determine any other causes of the brake light. Look for codes related to the brakes that appear on the reader, indicating any parts on the brakes that need repair or replacement.

I have the same problem few days ago, and still didn't find any solution. Can any one please help?????8

hi - there is no p4056 code put if you meant P0456
that Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Very Small Leak Detected.
check all vacuum hose for cracks& evaporate canister

12 to 12.6 with engine off no more thyen 13.6 with engine running

Hi
That's the signal that your alternator is not giving or charging the battery.
Better go to your nearest auto electrician and check the battery charging, specifically the alternator.
Alternator is the one that charges your battery and giving power to the whole electrical equipment in your car, thus the check engine lights up to tell you that it has a low electric power.
Hope that helps you.
Thanks for using FixYa!

Hi, the hold light refers to the hold button on the shifter module. It means the transmission holds the lower gear revving up the rpms and won't shift to the higher gear. Seeing the light means the button has been engaged. Push it to turn it off.........

The caliper, pads needs to be removed, front one is bolted by screws, but rear disc brakes are bolted by pins.The pins needs to be removed.If the pins are rusted and hard to take out,then wd-40 spray or any other good rust lubricating spray has to be used.-------- For complete detail, with step by step diagrams.Click the link below:--- http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-replace-rear-brake-discs-on.html ----------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Its in the transmission pan area part of the valve body,this sensor just does one thing report the temperature of the transmission,If you are stuck in 3rd gear this sensor has nothing to do with gear change, it is not responsible for shifting. If you pulled this from a generic scan tool it may be a logic code that has suspended a function code, go ahead and change it , there the filter and fluid will get changed and if you get a code it will be a function code

In most cases that is what's going on with your car, if questionable, you may want to turn on your A/C to see if the problem worsen. If so, you may want to tighten up the lose belt or take it to a local shop if you're not comfortable doing it yourself.

You can use a hammer against the ratchet to get it tight. smack it a few good times. First I would take it out and apply some loctite to it. Use the non permanent type.

the one that says engine is for the motor oil,the other is for the transmission.the engine oil will look dark the transmission fluid will look red in colour.

I would venture to guess that your alternator is not working. Most auto parts store will check the output from the alternator for free. And then sell you a replacement alternator if it is not working.

Make sure that you clean your battery terminals AND your battery cables whenever you disconnect them.

TDC stands for "Top Dead Center". This is where the piston in #1 cylinder is at the very top of it's travel and it has nowhere to go but down. This actually occurs on EVERY revolution of the crankshaft. For engine timing purposes, most repair procedures also expect the valves for #1 cylinder to be completely closed. This happens on every SECOND revolution of the crankshaft. The valves are controlled by the cam shaft. The vehicle manufacturer provides marks on the crankshaft and cam sprockets and on the engine to indicate the crankshaft and camshaft position where this occurs. Please see the picture below.

Hi,

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NOTE: In order to perform a meaningful diagnosis, it is necessary to utilize either a code scanner or code reader. A test light, ohmmeter, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge and jumper wires may be required. You do not need any of the aforementioned items to inspect vacuum hoses, wiring, or disconnected plugs or adapters.

There is no such thing as one fix fixes all. Be forewarned that some repairs require ripping things apart and extensive testing, repairing or replacing items, This possibilities require a modicum of skill, patience and more. It's always best to take your vehicle to your service center.

Before undertaking any repair or diagnostic work, be sure to inspect wiring for proper connection, burned or worn/chafed spots, and cuts. The connectors to the EGV tend to corrode and the wiring breaks because of the heat.

Be sure to check hoses that are hard to see beneath the air cleaner, compressor, alternator, etc.

THE MOST IMPORTANT NOTE: Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer. For example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

All the best

Ben

1 first remove the tire only after blocking the car
2 remove the caliper and brakes
3 now you must remove the housing that holds the caliper
3 you will find two big bolts on the back side holding it on
4 look at the rotor to see if it is being held on by 1 or 2
4 phillups screws if so remove them
5 you are ready to remove the rotor some times they
5 will fight you so spray some w-d 40 or 556 lube on it
5 you might have to hit it on the back side to get it off
5 with a (SMALL) hammer they will brake its soft metal

hope this helps you
bob

use a timing gun that checks for timing of car but if you have a low idle most likely that your timing belt is off and it depends how old is your car because the older cars you could change easier then the todays cars.