Symptoms of a Bad Door Switch
If you are experiencing any of the below symptoms, there is a good chance you have a bad microwave door switch:
Your microwave doesn't start up when you close the door and press the start button
Your microwave's interior light, turntable, or fan turns on automatically when you open the door without you hitting the start button
Your microwave pauses randomly in the middle of cooking as if you had opened the door when the door is still tightly shut
To be completely safe, you should discharge the capacitor before you go poking around inside your microwave.
The capacitor is usually located at the bottom right corner of the microwave.
. How to Test For a Faulty Microwave Door Switch
The first thing you should do to test the micro switches is by opening and closing the door. You will want to first rule out the possibility the latch or hook is broken and not activating the switch.
Watch to make sure the latch activates the plunger on the top of each switch as you open and close the door. When the door opens and closes, the plunger should depress and pop back up.
For my microwave, I noticed the plunger on one of the switches stayed down when the door was opened and closed. This was the bad switch.
If all the door switches and latches appear to be working correctly visually, the next step is to test that they are working correctly internally.
You will see two or three terminals on the switch. The terminal on the bottom of the switch will usually be the common (COM) and the ones on the side will be a normally closed (NC) or a normally open (NO) terminal.
If you don't know which terminal is which, there will be a diagram on one side of the switch. Look for which marking the terminal is located next to.
Remove the wires connected to the terminals.
Using a multimeter set for continuity, touch one probe to the COM terminal.
Now if you touch the other probe to the NO terminal, it should read no continuity because that circuit is normally open. Now press down on the plunger. You might sometimes hear a 'click' and your multimeter should report there is continuity.
Testing the NC terminal is similar to testing the NO terminal. Keep one probe on the COM terminal and touch the other to the NC terminal. You should have continuity when the plunger is up because the circuit is normally closed. When you depress the plunger, the circuit should open and your multimeter will say there is no continuity.
Replacing the Faulty Micro Switch
Once you have found the bad switch, remove it from the door panel. The switches will usually be mounted on pins through the holes at the corner of the switch with brackets holding it in place.
Should you have trouble getting access to or removing the switches, they are usually all mounted on a plastic frame with screws securing it to the microwave. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull out the frame with all the switches at once.
Once you get the microwave door switch out, you could open it up and try to fix it if you are super cheap, but it will likely fail again soon after. A better long-term solution is to replace it since they are so inexpensive.
These switches are usually rated up to 100,000 operations electrically and 10,000,000 operations mechanically.
To find a replacement switch, look on your old switch for the voltage rating and the type of switch you need. It might have one terminal that is normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC). It could also have both NO and NC terminals, known as a Single Pole Double Throw or SPDT switch. My microwave had two NO switches and one NC switch.
My switch was rated for 15A - 1/2HP - 125/250 VAC, 0.6A 125 VDC or 0.3A 250 VDC.
You can order a normally open micro switch or a normally closed micro switch on Amazon for about $5 with the above rating. You can also order a SPDT micro switch with both the NO and NC terminals and only use one of the two terminals.lastly check for bad control board
Thanks for the info about the lifetime warranty, who knew? The two parts mentioned are flow control valves that get inserted at the base of the sprayhead, not the in the hose. The green one says "water care" which will restrict flow more than the white one. It's an either or scenario, not both. There is a VERY faint arrow that points up toward the top of the nozzle. Push it all the way up and reconnect the hose tightly. That's it. My replacement didn't come with a wrench, did that come with the original faucet? One more thing, if you bought a house that has this and don't qualify for the lifetime warranty, don't get stuck paying $100-$150 for this part if you just need to replace the aerator. The gray head that the water comes out twists out with a wrench revealing the aerator. The part number is 13929 or sometimes referred as 1392900, $10-15, if you can find it.
The black marks are burnt debris caused by splashing inside the oven. (Cling film usually stops this).
The waveguide cover, refered to as mica, has nothing to do with the actions of the magnetron, it is there to stop particles of food from entering the waveguide.
Wine coolers can stop cooling for six common reasons - A break in electricity, compressor problems, capacitor problems, the condenser fan stops working, a defective thermostat, or a broken evaporator. Most of these problems can be troubleshot at home, but a technician is needed for advanced issues.
Consumer fuses are normally on the rear where the power lead goes in. It is a small screw cap or a long pull out fuse with a small notch in the end. If there is an internal fuse, it will be on the main circuit board. Getting inside is normally not easy because of security screws.
https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens
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The thermal fuses and the ceramic fuse might of had blown and need to be replaced. It could also be that door switch and the door latch are not working. The plug could be bad.
The filter might need to be replaced. For the manual I would try searching on the companies official website to see if they have a manual for your microwave.
Try a power disconnect at the plug socket for 5 minutes. If that doesn't reset it, you will need a local repairer. The most likely reason is a door safety micro-switch has failed or moved out of adjustment. There are normally three on the door and hinges to prevent operation with an open door.
https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens
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Oven, broiler, convection, and fryer etc. modes specifically do not use microwaves as these modes let you use metal racks and cooking pans. It's aok with metal then. Microwave modes follow the same no metal rule. It does use an insane amount of power however. A 15amp circuit will not work, at all, for modes beyond microwave. https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-ML2-EC10SA-BS-Convection-Energy-saving/dp/B08G4Q5196?maas=maas_adg_F9D8E55C1CEC19FBA25DD2A20A23C830_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas&th=1
Could not find anyone stocking parts. Accept for this...
https://www.contoureusa.com/partsandaccessories
If you need technical help with your product please contact one of our certified CONTOURE® technicians. You can do so by calling our customer support line (888) 656-9317 and requesting "technical support."
Sure hope this helps!
