Fisher Refrigerators - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

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ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.
The cold control needs replacing. Thats the knob with the numbers that turn the Ref OFF and ON.
What I do is call my local Appliance Parts Store with my model no. They are extremely helpful .
Get freezer and ref thermometer. Ref is probably too cold.
Freezer should be 0 to 10 degrees. Ref 33 to 35
If you need more help, Go here:
http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Hello, I do not know what area you live, however there hundreds appliance service companies out there. Best thing to do is look in the better business bureau in your area, if you google them or contact them, they normally will have a list of licensed , certified bounded companies that have proven them self enough to be part of there list. Other companies that are trust worthy and pretty good is the subcontractors that Sears uses, home depot,lowers contact one of them and they have there own as well as good recommendations . The contractors they use already been screened. Stay away from cheap drains list adds, and flyers dropped off. Those are normally the ones that are not certified , licensed and bounded. I hope this helps. Mike from fixya.

Hi, Have you tryed unplugging it for 1 hour. This may reset it. If it doesn't have a repareman look at it. Good luck.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator RepairRefrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator CompressorRefrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start RelayRefrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Coldheatman101

Does it blow instantly or does it take a min or so to trip?

Has the temp control not been set too low by accident. If not it sounds like the thermostat contacts are stuck together or the sensor bulb has leaked. Unplug the fridge and try tapping the thermostat switch on the compressor lightly and see if that will make the fridge stop running. If that does not help, the thermostat will have to be replaced.

Its a temperature problem.The temp increases due to internal fan not working.The fan has to be checked.If the fan is running properly then this problem is related to circuit board.The board not controlling the temp.Also press the temp button and see if the beeping stops.Also see if the door is not getting closed.If the door is not getting properly the temperature increases do to outside air entering the refrigerator.------ But if door is getting closed properly and pressing temperature button on the panel is not helping then the fan and the circuit board.This 2 possibilities are to be checked.Any of the one is faulty and causing the problem of 4 beeps. ------------ This should help.Keep updated.Thanks.Helpmech.

We fixed the leak by putting a pipe cleaner down the hole inside the fridge, at the back. This cleared the tube as it had gunk and grime blocking it. Now the water can run freely down the tube and into the drip tray which is at the back of the fridge above the motor.

Have you tried defrosting the entire fridge yet? This is usually caused by blocked air flow which is caused by ice build up or a faulty fan. The first step would be to do a complete defrost and check to see if air is flowing inside of the fridge.
Let me know what you find.
Benjamin

hello ian..... If your fridge is more than ten years old you will definitely be better off with a new one. That said, lets get back to considering a repair. Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. Joe Thanks for choosing Fixya!

The problem for Butter warmer not working was as I suspected the internal workings of the regulator slider that adjusts the temp for the butter warmer it's self. The regulator intenals get a sort of burnt ember on them from something similar to a couple of positive and negative wires connecting causing a sorf of short. I have an electrical tech nearby who opened up the regulator to find and use a small wire brush and scraper removed the burnt on gum. It returned the warmer to working immediately upon re-installation and is still several years later, working a treat.
I am disappointed to note that in stores we have checked to upgrade our fridge all say that no models have the butter warmer anymore. Hence we are holding on to our fridge.

how long it takes to form the ice in a frost free (fisher & Paykle) refregerator ?

Hi Greg,
Before you replace Thermostat control, please try the below steps:
Things You'll Need:
Screwdriver
Volt-Ohm Multi-tester
Notebook
Pencil
Flashlight

Step 1 Check the easiest and most common potential causes first, which is the best course of action in any troubleshooting case. With a freezing refrigerator, this means checking the thermostat itself to see if it is set at the right temperature.
Sometimes, other family members may accidentally turn the dial, so just make sure that the dial is not turned to the coldest setting. If the setting is correct and you are still having your foods frozen, then you may have to troubleshoot the workings of the thermostat.
Step 2 Unplug your refrigerator. Next, locate the control panel where the thermostat is located and remove all of the items near it so you can work.
The thermostat is located directly behind the dial. You may need the flashlight to help you see inside the refrigerator.
Step 3 Remove the plastic cover that protects the controls. Some covers are screwed into place while others are held in place by plastic clips. Depending on your make and model refrigerator, you may have to first remove the dial before you can take the cover off.
Step 4 Turn the dial to the coldest setting. Remove the two leads (wires) on the thermostat.
Note: It helps to write down which lead goes where for when it's time to replace everything.
Step 5 Set the volt-ohm multimeter to RX1 and probe the terminals. By "probe," I mean touch one of the multimeter's probes to one terminal on the thermostat and the other probe to the other terminal.
You should be getting a reading of zero. If you get a zero reading, then move on to Step 6. If you do not get a zero reading, then remove the thermostat and take it to an appliance store for a replacement.
Step 6 Remove the thermostat from the refrigerator entirely. Set the dial on the thermostat to the warmest setting and place the thermostat in a working freezer for 30 minutes.
After the 30 minutes are up, reprobe the terminals and look for a reading of infinity. If you get the infinity reading, then the thermostat is fine. Simply reinstall it, plug the refrigerator back in and look for another cause of your freezing problem, like dirty coils.
If you do not get an infinity reading (sideways "eight"), you should replace the thermostat with a new one.
I also advise you to visit the below link:
http://www.ehow.com/how_2167621_troubleshoot-refrigerators-thermostat.html

Hi,
I have seen this problem on similar units and one of two problems are usually the culprit.
1- too much freon -
2- broken rod or piston on the compressor

Just thought I would share this just in case you over looked it.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

either the temperature sensor for the refrigerator is faulty or the "damper/vent door" is frozen shut or open, but with the way its changing every few days, it sounds more like the cold control in the refrigerator compartment along with the connected sensor is the problem not controlling the damper door movement to throttle cool air into the refrige compartment

There is another fan to draw air into fridge compartment- access via fridge: remove back panel (long plastic cover- just clips off). Remove control housing (again, just clips off- careful of wiring though). Fan is located up in this channel between fridge and freezer compartments. However, from what you are describing, I think you have a blockage in the freezer drain, causing a build up of ice in the freezer which blocks the air flow to fridge.  To check, remove rear panel of freezer (clips off- you need to press down two clips at top of panel, they can be tricky to get off!!). Disconnect fan motor wiring by unclipping plug connection, and remove sensor wire(white wire) so panel can be removed completely. Now have a look in the trough underneath the evaporator, and check for ice buil up- there should be no ice in this trough. If it is iced up, you need to defrost ice and then pour some water in the trough and see if it runs away. In the middle of the trough there is a small hole where the water should run down and away to collector tray at rear of fridge- if this hole is blocked, water won't run away, so builds up and freezes and blocks air flow to fridge. If hole is blocked, poke a wire down to unblock.
If in doubt, call in the experts- F+P fridges can be a bit fiddly getting apart, as everything clips together ( I worked for F+P for 10 years, and I still sometimes have problems getting panels off easily!!)
Good Luck!!