This wash machine fills to an inch below overflowing before stopping. Then when it aggitates or spins, water everywhere. The air hose is not blocked, I've blown thru it both directions. I've also checked it for leaks. None. I've also tried adjusting the pressure switch to no avail, and even changed the pressure switch. Made no difference. Since there is no air dome on this model, I'm out of ideas. Help!!!
Click below that's cause the washer to over fills;
There are 6 'Do-It-Yourselfer' stories about installing this part
What about replacing inlet valve, part replacement here
when is overfilling you have a faulty inlet valve
check also here for reference
The fact that you unplugged the machine means nothing.
Check here
How to Test the Inlet Valve
.
And remember to vote the solution if you fix it
It clicks but it does not shut off, the inlet valve it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it.
This is a typical case, there is no much else to say.
On some model the water level switch causes the problem, in this case you do not hear the click. Inlet valve and water level switch are the two faults that can cause overfilling.
I report here from repairclinic, but any basic WM troubleshooting will tell you the same:
"
It's overfilling
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve
A
defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to
shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If
this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In
time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need
to replace the valve.
Water-level switch
A
defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it
can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch
senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm
device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the
bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub
increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the
pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off
the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can
either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level
switch."
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Better have an authorized repairman to inspect and figure out which part is faulty to replace.
Its inlet valve problem
There is another control panel switch, usually located next to the
temperature switch. There is a small hose connected to this switch, and
sometimes this hose becomes loose and falls off the connection. When
this happens, the water in the tub usually overflows. To solve this
problem, cut about 1/2 inch off the end of the hose and use a push fit to reconnect it to the switch.
The
switch itself can also malfunction, resulting in tub overflow and other
water-level trouble in the tub. If you suspect this switch is faulty,
remove it by backing out the screws holding it in place. Take it to a
professional service person for testing. If the switch is faulty,
replace it with a new one of the same size and type. Connect the new
switch the same way the old one was connected.Water
leaks in a washer are often difficult to trace. There are many
possibilities to look for. The problem could be a loose connection, a
broken hose, a cracked component, or a defective seal. It could also be
a hole in the tub. If a hole in the tub is the problem, it's usually
best to replace the washer.
Most leaks can be eliminated by tightening water connections and replacing deteriorated components. To stop a leak:
1: Check the lid seal. If faulty, replace with a new gasket.
2: Check the hoses at faucet connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 3: Check the hoses at water valve connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
4: Check the drain hoses. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
5: Check the inlet nozzles. Tighten connections or replace nozzles.
6: Check the splash guard. Tighten connections or replace.
7: Check any plastic valve. Tighten connections or replace.
8: Check the outlet hose to drain. Tighten connections or replace hose.
9: Check the water pump, using the procedures that follow
Nope its the inlet valve stuck open %100 sure
If it is overfilling the problem is likely a switch that will have to be replaced. One way to determine if this is the cause is to set water level to medium or low. If it still goes way above the normal low or medium level, then you need to replace the switch. We recommend a local repair service or warranty work.
You are correct about the switch.
I still recommend trying a small load to see if it still overfills.
When pressure switches are used then the water put in the load is based on the amount of laundry put in the washer.
First, wash a load that is nearly empty.
Then wash slightly larger loads and work your way up.
If you are still spilling water on small loads then the problem is the washer.
If you are not experiencing this problem on smaller loads then it is likely that you are putting too many clothes in the washer.
Before you call a professional, make sure your bleach, fabric softner and detergent inlets are connected securely.
When this problem occured on my father's machine we fixed it by replacing a faulty bleach intake connection. please make sure that is not your problem as well.
Is your water hard or soft? sandy, silty, clean, etc.
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There is no water level selection on this model, and the pressure switch has already been replaced. Both the new and old pressure switches test good and click when you blow into the tube. Replaced the pressure switch for lack of knowing what else to do. I've also checked the inlet valve by unplugging the washer while it was filling, and the water stopped like its supposed to.
Let's try again, shall we?
Makes zero difference how many clothes in the washer. Even empty it fills to within an inch of overflowing.
City water, moderately hard. All comes through a whole house filter. No bleach intake.
Water stops filling the tub when I unplug the machine, or blow through the tube to the pressure switch. An audible click can be heard, and the water shut off completely.
How can it be the inlet valve stuck open? When power is removed, it closes as advertised. When the pressure switch "clicks", it shuts off as advertised.
For the love of.... Does anybody even bother to read what's already been posted? There is not another control panel switch, and since there is no temperature switch (that's encorperated into the timer) it can't possibly be next to it. The pressure switch hose has not fallen off, and the pressure switch has already been replaced. There were no screws holding it in place, and I didn't have to take it to a professional to test it. I have a multi-meter, and can blow into the tube. Water leaks are often difficult to trace? Did you miss the part where I said it doesn't stop filling until the water is only an inch or two from the top of the tub? And where I said it wasn't leaking, but splashes over the side of the tub when it aggitates or spins? All 9 of this person's "recommendations" are for an idiot. Like, if it doesn't work, try plugging it in and turning it on. What a bunch of B.S.
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