I got one of these drivers to replace my older driver. It clearly has more than enough torque, which is good in some cases but for some routine things around the house it is too much. Even on the lowest torque limit (#1 on the clutch), it can strip out holes in wood and plastic especially in repairs where the holes and screws may be old and fragile. My older Makita has this soft touch that comes in handy - is there any way to further reduce the torque on such DeWalt 18V drivers at which the clutch starts to slip and thus limits the torque?

Him you need to add considerably more detail to your query and repost, there is not enough information here to answer.
From the little that is here I would say that drivers need to be installed on a windows machine for the OS to recognise any new device being connected to the machine by an y means.
Clearly a driver has not been installed.
If the device being connected is an USB device you shoulg not be surprised if an older pen drive is not recognised by a newer machine or a newer pen/flash drive recognised by an older machine
Anyway, please add rather more detail and submit the query again

Remove the bobbin case clear cover. For the older Designer 1 and Designer SE series you pull the plate toward you and it will come out. There is a slot at the back of the plate that you can insert a small screw driver tip to push it forward by twisting the screw driver. If it is a Diamond, Sapphire, Ruby, or Topaz, you lift up on the plate from the front, inserting the tip of a small screw driver in the front.

All you can do is replace the chuck. Any good hardware store will have a replacement.

The inlet air valve the trigger operates. Revisit the vanes. Look for cracked or chipped corners. The spring behind the vane can be weak too. The overall depth of the vane can be worn enough that the vane leans in the groove allowing air to escape lowering the power applied to the vanes.

Your question leaves out an important issue: Is it your display not clear in other programs, Desktop, Word, other Applications etc or only when you go on the INTERNET ?

I'll take it case by case:
1) Try another know GooD Computer on the Same Internet Connection if its the same than Change Modem and/or Router, check Wiring and Phone Connection ....Best to Calll your DSL or other Internet Provider and let them diagnose that with you.

2) If it is not clear with any programs: your "desktop", M.S. Word. other Applications etc, is not clear etc than it can be either internal Video Card in the Notebook which is probably integrated into the Mother Board and you would have to change the entire board to fix the problem. OR your Display Monoitor Module is failing. You can test that by using a REMOTE MONITOR (plugged into the vga port on the side). If that display is not clear its the Video Card. If that display IS Clear than its your Monitor Module which can be replaced..Instructions come with the module usually

2) If JUST the INTERNET is not clear than it is most likely the NETWORK DRIVER which you can download from the Toshiba Site (go to toshiba.com and look for DRIVERS ...download both the VIDEO DRIVER and the NETWORK DRIVER and RUN THEM, install both.

Hail Mary: If all that doesnt work than save your data and use your RESTORE DISKS to Restore your Computer to FACTORY CONDITION . It will wipe out everything and reinstall all software, Internet Explorer and all Drivers.

iF ITS IS THE MOTHERBOARD BEST TO REPLACE NOTEBOOK ENTIRELY, NOT WORTH THE EFFORT OR $$ TO REPLACE MOTHERBOARD ...If you were able to do this; you would not be asking your question LOL :)

Good Luck !

Hello, W/D here.

A very good question......A drill holds a bit and rotates it at a given speed. This speed can be variable, allowing the speed of the drill bit to be better matched to the material being drilled. The output from the drill motor goes directly to the chuck, and the power is directly applied to the drill bit. Some drills can generate a tremendous amount of direct torque, due to the nature of their gearing. Most of the better drills have planetary gears in them.
A driver rotates like a drill, but is designed to apply torque to a driving bit, and cause a fastener to be placed by the driver. The main difference between a drill and a driver is that a driver has an adjustable clutch, allowing the amount of torque being applied to a fitting to be preset. A good example of this would be for driving wood screws. You would dial in the torque setting that you want the driver to quit driving the screw. You don't want to drive the screw to China, you want to drive it flush. A maximum torque setting "locks" the clutch, and the fitting will be driven as far as it can go (This is about as close to being called a drill as a driver will ever get). A clutch setting midway might be just right for driving the same fitting into oak, and a setting at less than that might be just right for pine. The torque clutch effectively sets a kick out torque for the driver. When the torque applied matches the torque set on the driver, the clutch "slips", and no further driving action can occur.
Most modern battery powered drills incorporate a torque clutch between the motor and the chuck so that the tool can be operated as a drill (with the torque setting at "max") or as a driver (with the torque setting at less than max) some electric tools are configured as both, but usually they are different. For the money, a good battery powered drill/driver with a clutch offers more versatility, in my opinion.
Best regards, --W/D--

I thought all '87 FWD corolla's were 1.6l 4ac engines like mine. SOHC 2bbl Carb. Well in any case, I just did this with mine. You do have to drop the ball joint on the driverside to get the short shaft out, and then the tranny. the Passenger side cv shaft can stay put. You can then pull the engine out the top. Not enough clearance to pull just the engine or to pull both cause of the driverside manual tranny mount sticking out of the fender over the tranny. The easiest way is to drop both out of the bottom together, but the car needs to be high enough off the ground. Can't pull just the engine with a manual because of the shaft that goes in the clutch. if it were an auto sure, just unbolt the torque converter, sepereate the tranny, and pull the motor straight up. Watch out for the water pump pulley.

in drill mode slips will not tork

I believe if you go to HP.com and do their auto-select printer routine it should delete the old driver for you.

hello..maybe the driver routines you have is too old..try windows live update or search for new routines from the manufacturer of your printer...in worst case you must use windows xp or 98 to make it work..i.e. buy a new printer.....worst case...good luck...Ron