Fault code 00111 110 = 62. 1-2 inches of water in tub. Advance to spin and hit start. Gets a small vibrate sound, multiple times (10-15), then fc62, then beeps until I powered it off. Drain pump test makes a similar vibrate sound but does not turn on drain pump. Water valve tests work. Could not find fc62 in my doc. Drain Pump?

sounds like a programmer issue, a repairman should diagnose the machine. When washing machines begin to behave eratically there is usually a fault with this above mentioned part. If there is one issue it may ne attributable to other components but the brain of the machine is the programmer and where there are multiple issues it indicates that this part is at fault

The washer tub bearing may be defective, but that is the only thing that I can think of. Are you noticing this on all loads or just heavy items like bath towels and jeans? Are you redistributing the clothes before the final spin, try that. Also do not overload the washer, wash to medium loads instead of one full to the top load. Wastes water but saves on repairs.

I did some research on F-11 codes and Vibration-- See if this helps:

The F11 fault is actually described in the tech sheet as a "Serial Communication Fault" involving the MCU (the washers computer) and the DC Drive assembly that runs the motor. If you are not familiar with a DC drive, it is simply a controller for the motor that varies the voltage to the motor to change speeds.My research showed many people solving this problem with a replacement of the control unit or the relays inside of it.
The problem with the engineering and design of these washing machines was that they all vibrate excessively unless they are sitting on a floor constructed of a ton or more of solid concrete.

The vibration eventually makes either the motor serial/tach connector (or possibly one of the five relays in the control unit) intermittent, and the machine begins to throw error codes

I have found a good whack on the side of the machine seems to work. No kidding. Here's what happens: Stupid F11 flashes. I hit the pause/cancel button. It flashes the remaining time on the cycle. I hit the start button. Sometimes that just does it. If it doesn't I give it a whack on the left side of the machine, (if you're facing it), in the middle, about 6 to 8 inches above where the drawer is.

Let us know if we can help more--

Mack B

Hello the LD code simply means "Long Drain"
Is there water in the bottom of the tub? If yes then open back of washer and remove drain pump (on left side) and pull off of tub and clear whatever is blocking its impeller.
If the water is all gone and drained but pump stays on for several minutes and then gives "LD" fault then open back and check the small clear tube that is attached to the tub. Make sure is not blocked with debris and check tube and tub for anything that could block the small clear tube. If these are ok then remove 3 screws in back of the control panel, pull open control panel and check the clear tub all the way up from the tub to the washer controller board (computer) make sure it is not kinked or disconnected. If not then the problem is most likely the pressure sensor on the (computer). This unit will have to be replaced.
You can test the sensor by doing the following: 1. When the "LD" fault comes on start by pressing the pause button. then pull the clear tube off of the computer board. Then attach a tight fitting drinking straw over the sensor. Press the start button and wait for 60 seconds - If the washer does not start the spin cycle on its own after the 60 seconds then **** on the drinking straw that you attached to the pressure sensor earlier. The sucking action should reset the sensor thus telling the computer that the water is drained and it will start the spin cycle. Just remember if you have to do this to get the washer to spin - that means the sensor is damaged most likely from moisture traveling up the tube over time. The computer board will need to be replaced. I believe it costs $205 without shipping.

Thanks

Easy fix, no parts needed mate. Simply look for a loose hose going to the water level switch. The small vacuum hose from tub to switch vibrates off from time to time OR sediment gets into the tube where it attaches at the base of the tub. Remove the hose at the switch in the control console and blow through it to clear any blockage and reattach firmly. Remove the water and retry. With any luck the washer will resume normal duty's. Good Day!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It is probably the bearings on the rear of the wash tub. There have been multiple issues with the bearings. Try rplacing the bearings and the drive belt. I also have a 417 that I've had for almost 10 years.. I've not have a problem yet but it is slightly louder on spinning than it was when it was new. I did some research and found out about the bearings.

It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump 
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

• If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.



• If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

mostly its faulty motor problem or drain problem. It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump 
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

• If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.



• If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

First, make sure that you do not overload the machine.
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

• If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.



• If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

• It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.



• It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

Tub bearing and other related parts are bad. That's a major repair.