I want a 100 watt electric stove with oven to put in my bunkhouse so I don't have to add 220. I don't even know if there is such a thing.

What is the age factor on the stove? You may want to get someone to come in and check it out, as it puts out some very high current. Stoves run on 220--240 volts, and the oven jacks up the Amps, which is a hazard if you make contact on them.

You can get a voltmeter and test the wall outlet for the power being put out. Sometimes if the wiring in the house has a bad line, it can't get enough to work.

Also, if you have a breaker box, you can test it to see if it has a dual electrical breaker for the 220-240 line.

If the stove is getting the proper power supply, then it could need fuses/breakers in the stove itself. How does the cooking plates on top work? The oven may have some elements that need replaced, but it may be cheaper to purchase another stove.

The pop was a shorted wire.
The short drew sudden over-amp at breaker.
Amps = heat.
Breaker senses heat and trips before wire to oven is damaged, and before the arcing short can cause a fire.
Was the short at the element?
I don't know, but sounds like the circuit board was damaged.
Of course they are putting electronics inside all appliances today instead of old mechanical dial, because it's cheaper or so much prettier... but new appliances more vulnerable to surge, and other electrical failures. Which is true for all 240V appliances not protected by whole house surge protector.
To test element.
Remove element.
Use a continuity tester across the element connections.
If there is continuity, then the element is probably functional.
Use a multimeter across same element, set multimeter to read ohms.
240 Volt, 3500 watt element should be about 16 ohms.
4500 watt about 12-13 ohms
Volts squared divided by watts = ohms
57,600 divided by 4500 watt = 12.8 ohms
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ohm-reading-for-emements.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

I would guess that the short fried the circuit board, but there is a also a shorted wire somewhere that is still bare and dangerous while power is ON and you are touching oven or stove, unless 240V breaker is GFCI or arc fault, which probably not. Especially dangerous if you are moving stuff around trying to find problem while power is ON.
Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The first thing to do is check the amounf of voltage at the recepticle. It must be at least 220 volts across the two outside connectors. Then there should be 120 from each outside post to the center line. If the electricity meets those standards then it's ok and the problem is in the oven itself.

Its probably not a bad idea. Thats alot for a 100A panel to handle, a range needs a 50A, a water heater needs 30A, and the heat will need a 50A or a 60A breaker... Plus whatever else is in the house will be a bit more than the 100A service can handle. But if you don't have the money it will do for a while because for the most part they won't all be pulling at the same time. Word to the wise get at least a 30 space panel when you upgrade, I always install a 40 space panel because for the cost difference its well worth it for future needs because you'll fill it up quicker than you think and you'll have space for anything else you may want to add later on. Hope I helped

Hello,

Simple to test a bake element or range top burner element.

First, visually see if the element has molten gobs on the tubular-looking element, and/or is cracked. It will be obvious.

And if you do not see anything obvious, you should still test the element with a voltmeter. Many elements are set up so you can unscrew a screw where the element gets attached at the inside rear of the oven, and then pull the element into the stove a couple inches, enough to unhook the wires and then be able to put a voltmeter tester on each end of the element (set to the OHMS setting) to see if the element has continuity.

IF the element is good, then...

...You can also then make sure the wires are not contacting metal(BE SURE OF THIS),... and then plug the stove back in and test the wires to see if you have 220 volts. If not see, which of the two wires has 110. Then if you know which one does not have the 110, then you UNPLUG THE STOVE again and then access the rear of the stove and trace that dead wire from the element plug-in back in the range. You will physically be able to trace that wire.

When working with 220 elements in anything...please realize that usually one leg wire of the 220 volts (in other words, 110 volts) is always 'hot' even though the switch to it is off!! Always remember that!

> (I think it is 50 watts or volts??)
Most electric ranges are supplied with 220 volts - this is, especially at 60 Hz, deadly. You were lucky this time.
If the wires are not welded onto the element contacts, they might be so-called 'quick-disconnects' that pull straight off of blades that are part of the elelment.  
You probably haven't hurt the range with the momentary short circuit since the chassis of the range is connected to neutral or ground so you just gave your breaker a workout. BTW, I have had to replace late breakers after they tripped. They wouldn't stay reset any more even after the problem was removed from the circuit. Don't be surprised if yours doesn't stay reset; it may not be a fault causing it. 

All oven elements are 115/130 VAC. Stoves use 220/240 so that you can use both the burners and Oven at the same time. Since the burners are Gas, then 220/240 VAC isn't needed.

(Note: 220 is simply dual 110 hot leads with a common ground)

make of stove .. digital or standard controls .. may not even be the oven ovens are 220 volts 110 works stove top other 110 works oven

First thing I would check is see if you are getting 220 volts to the stove.  Must be a constant 220.  Let me know what you find.