I cut mostly hard woods, oak, hickory etc. I just

sure will , most saws have different angle cuts to teeth on blade this "angle" needs to be maintained as the "rake" teeth that are behind the cut teeth are set to provide a good way to wipe out cut debris (cut,rake,cut,etc.) this is how chain cuts thru wood , if one changes the cut angle on teeth the rake teeth might not do there job correct and saw bogs and "files" thru wood rather than chips thru wood ,takes longer ,more fuel, more effort , a look at saw cuttings tells the tale , more tiny file sawdust = dull chain --- large Chips and less dust = sharp chain

What type of wood are using. I use mesquite - Oak - mapel - hickory Charcoal For the fire not all at the same time. After the fire is going need to buy Oak or Hickory or Mesquite wood large chips soak them in water for about 30 minutes. throw some into the fire about every 20 30 min.

White smoke is usually associated with burning antifreeze in an automobile engine, but in this case, trying to cut wet wood might be suspect. The chain must be properly sharpened and the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run of chain. When the chain is properly adjusted, it should not droop from the lower edge of the bar, but no so tight that you can't turn it by hand. Forcing a poor cutting chain into the kerf will overheat the chain and cause it to become loose quickly. Hope this helps!

It may sound oversimplified but....is your chain sharp? Is the chain on backwards?

When cutting you should be getting nice big chips from the cut. If you are getting more "dust" than chips the chain is dull and needs to be resharpened.

There is no set "time" to sharpen a chain,but you will only get a few hours of cutting before the chain dulls. In soft wood like pine you can go longer. In hardwood like oak or locust you may get an hours worth of cutting. If the bar digs into the ground or hits a rock it's time to sharpen right then because the chain will be dull.

I always carry an extra chain or two just for emergencies like hitting a rock or some wire in a tree.

Available power and the amount of oil may both be a limiting factors. Your oiler has a 3 position adjustment (as do most intermediate level Huskies) with 20" being the longest recommended. My 359 is virtually the same and I run a 24" Carlton bar on mine with no problem. If you opt for a longer bar let the saw determine cutting speed. Come on over, my bar and chain will fit your saw, try it before you buy it. If you have an acquaintance with a 24" small mount Husky bar that is probably a good idea. I would likely not recommend a 24" bar if regularly cutting Oak or a hard wood, I do a lot of Fir.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

This could be a problem with chain sharpening technique. Use of the correct size file, filing angles, and filing depth will all affect cutting performance. If the bar and chain are worn, you may be experiencing chain 'roll-over' which hinders the way the teeth cut into the wood. Try turning the bar over and tighten the chain a little more than usual, but still be able to turn it by hand. If the outer edges of the bar groove area have a 'flared-out surface, take a file to those edges (cut about 45 degrees) which may be catching on the 'kerf' of the cut. Make sure the teeth are cutting toward you on the bottom run. Hope this helps!

a lot of people have this problem with a chain saw and cant get a strate cut, most of the time its down to them trying to force the saw through the wood and in doing this the saw cuts around corners as there pull is not square to the cut,, let the saw do the work, not you, if your pulling on the saw to make it cut well then it has a very dull or blunt blade,,,is there any side to side "rock" on the chain in this new bar? how have you sharpend it? dose the chain have the same pitch on both side's? are all the teeth cutting at the same depth? if its cutting around corners it could still be the chain pitch worn out, if so the chain is past its best as well, but most of the time its all down to how hard and how squarely your pulling on the blade when cutting,,,the first thing in logging to lurn is to cut squarely no easy task that! just dont force the saw to cut!! it will cut just as fast or faster without forseing it,, if all this still dont get you cutting right change the chain for a new one,,,the only hard work with a chain saw is holding it up to the tree and humping it around not cutting with it, thats the blade's job to do so the faster you try to make it cut the more out of true the cut go's as all your doing is bending the bar out of alinement,,all in all, its two hands for the job and a very gentle pressure on the saw, start the cut with the blade spinning and dont stop the blade in the wood, cut right through

It's hard to say. 41CCs should handle a 16" chain reasonably well.

1. What are you cutting? Hard woods oak and maple are more difficult than pine.
2. Are you digging in the dogs and trying to force the saw through the wood? Let the saw determine how fast it wants to cut, I rarely engage the dogs on my 359, I let the weight of the saw work for me.
3. How sharp is your chain? Have the rakers been filed to low?
4. Is the saw bogging down at speed before contacting the wood?
5. Your saw was set extremely lean to meet EPA requirements. It is fitted with adjustment limiters also mandated by the EPA. To lean can impact how it performs.

All of these and few not coming to mind effect how fast the saw cuts. This isn't the answer you wanted but it is honest. We would have to see you cut and examine your saw to provide anything better. HTH
Lou

Hi

Before other checking change the spring of the clutch(2).

best regards savumihai71