Heater/fan issues I have a Honeywell - Year Round Fan with 1500W Heater that shuts off within five minutes if the fan is not running too. I don't have the oners manual and can't find one online. I have read several reviews that say the same thing. The heat does do much good when the fan above it is blowing cold air. Any ideas?

Are the brushes worn down too far? As they wear the springs tension gets weaker. The brushes can also get stuck inside the channel they slide in. Could also be a buildup of dust etc inside and around the internal fan or commutator, etc.

hi.

without the key, your options are very limited.

apart from destructive drilling, or expensive locksmith charges there may be one chance.

place a fan heater, or similar heater in front of the safe for 3-4 hours until the safe is warm to touch.
be careful not to cause a fire risk around the safe, or to overheat the safe. DO NOT leave unattended.

it will take this time for the heat to be slowly transferred to the battery compartment on th einside of the door, but when the batteries warm up, you may find they have a slight boost from the heat, and actually have enough power to open the safe.
there are no guarantees that this technique will work on your safe, as it is very dependent on the amout of life left in the batteries, but is worth a try as a last attempt before expensive drilling or locksmith charges.

good luck

I have a model Bissell Proheat Platinum II Model 1699 that was not spraying. It looks to be very similar to your model. From reading other posts, this is what I did:

Frst make sure it isn't the pump. Try spraying with your accessory. The accessory does not use the heater. If you get spray with your accessory, your pump is okay. If you don't get spray, check the belt to the pump. If it isn't the belt, you may need a new pump.

Luckily, I got spray with my accessory, so now you need to check your tubing from and to your heater. As stated in other posts, the heater is located within the lower half of the handle where the POWER HEATER switches are. There are quite a few screws. It's easy to miss the one at the very top of the handle. First remove the accessory caddy and then remove one half of the upper handle. The other half of the upper handle lifts straight up allowing you to split the lower part fo the handle into a "V". It pivots at the bottom around the wheels. It took me a while to figure out that I needed to LIFT that part of the handle straight up.

Once you split the lower half, you will see the heater (aluminum box). There are two ports on the heater where the two lines connect to the heater (in and out). Use pliers to loosen the spring clip where the tubing connects to the heater to remove each line. My lines were okay. One of the ports on my heater was plugged. I used a 1/16" drill bit and hand reamed out the crud. You don't need to use a drill -- use your hand - it's safer. After you cleaned out the ports and your tubing (if needed), suggest you try it out after reconnecting the lines to the heater but before you put the handle back together. You may find that the lines or port needs more cleaning. Make sure you have water in both the water and cleaning solution vessels. As you know, no water will spray if EITHER one is dry. Turn it on and then press the little spring that's still in the handle. Hopefully you will get a water spray.

When you put the handle back together, be careful that you don't crimp the tubing. Tuck them back in the notches in the handle.

Hope this helps . Good luck.

No solenoid. Try opening up the heater, check the inlet and outlet with a toothpick or something like that. be sure to not lose any of the tiny rubber o rings. The heater always gets clogged with mineral deposit. The thing that prevents these from distributing the water most often however, is the air tube on the pump. it is fed from the motor fan. If you are running your machine, and you can hear a distinct sucking sound, like there is an air leak, then your air tube is not installed properly at the motor opening. Also, you must have a taught belt on your pump pulley. The pump is run by the belt system off the brush roller.Hope this helps. Let me know! Thanks, Rene (the Vacuum Doctor)

It's a known problem. I bought my vx550 last year in July and it stopped working this year in May. On for 5 minutes, shut down, can't run for a few hours, runs for another five minutes, etc. I called the Nutone customer service department and they exchanged the unit for a new one, cross shipped, via UPS. Mine was still under warranty though. It has to do with some defective thermostat or controller in the electronics of the vacuum.

Good luck

http://www.geeksquad.fixya.com/ThreadView.aspx?prdid=113651&thid=541998
Electrolux aptitude upright
Posted by inoubliable on Apr 24, 2008
My Electrolux is about 3 years old. Never had any problems with it until recently, it is LOUD. It doesn't seem to make a 'normal' running noise unless it butts up against a wall, furniture, etc. trying to vacuum is like being on a jet runway. Is something clogged? Does it just have issues from not being used for about a year? (Last house had no carpet).


Hello,
I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR VACUUM before beginning any service procedure.
It sounds to me that you have a broken fan, in every vacuum I have seen with the loud noise such as you described, it has been a broken fan or fan blade and is in need of replacement. You can try to do it yourself but I suggest going to your local vacuum cleaner dealer for service with the problem. Remember, a suggested belt change if the belt is flat would be 4 to 6 months and If you have a geared belt the belt change would be one year or better depending on wear factor. So, if you need further assistance, please feel free to contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions.
http://electrolux.com Customer Service
Electrolux Home Care Products – North America
PO Box 3900 Peoria, IL 61612
1-800-896-9756
Thanks, Don – The Vac Man
Go Ahead. Use Us.

I had exactly the same problem with my five-year old my Bissell 7920, and it's probably a broken pump belt.  See page 19 of your instruction manual for how to replace.  The Bissel ProHeat belt accessory pack costs $3.99 and you get a pump belt and a brush belt.  Since you have to first remove the brush belt to get to the pump belt, you might as well replace both. The first time I did this it took me 15 minutes, but now that I know the drill, doing a belt replacement would take about 3 minutes.

I'm assuming the belts are OK.... Your heater is clogged. Unplug the machine and let it sit for 30 minutes. Take the handle apart, there will be a 4 inch by 8 inch metal box inside. This is the heater. Remember I said to let the machine sit for 30 minutes? If you didn't, the heater may be EXTREMELY hot!! Disconnect the two hoses going into it, and clean the metal pieces out (that the hoses connected to) with a needle or very small drill bit. You may want to remove the 6 or 8 screws holeding the heater together and remove the cover to clean it out. Reassemble and fill both tanks with VERY hot water ONLY and run the machine to rinse the entire system.

To prevent future reoccurences... use only Bissell extraction shampoos. Never put anything in the detergent tank except shampoo. (And only water in the water tank) Mixing chemicals with anything else turns the water/detergent mix to sludge. Also, when finished shampooing, put ONLY water in both tanks, and run the machine until one of the tanks run out of solution. Doing this rinses the hose lines out and prevents hardening of the solution in the heater ports.

I've fixed these machine for years. No dispensing is almost always the heater clogged.