Changed out blower motor on elect furnace.the old motor had three wires one fed the compaster.new motor is revirsable has purple wire,red,blue,black.hooked up purple 1st phase,red for high 2nd phase. is this correct ?

resistor gives you the fan speeds
if you by pass the blower will be full blast all the time
you need to find the 12 volt and earth for the motor to by pass

Make sure the capacitor matches with the new motor

purple goes to the transfornerthere is a double terminal and that is where it goes

Maybe there is a blockage in the air conditioning coil above the furnace? This happens when people have pets, or dont use filters. Single phase 120-240 volt motors won't run backwards if you reverse the wiring that's dc or three phase, you have to check the rotation of the wheel, the right rotation is usually marked on the blower case. Some motors will allow you to change the rotation but you have to check the wiring diagram. Also use new capacitors when they go bad the motor can run backward. God luck

If you pulled the 10 amp fuse in the I/P fuse block and the blower still worked than the the blower motor module is most likely the problem. It is fed by a 30 amp fus4e in the fuse block under the rear seat. That fuse is always hot and always supply power to the blower motor module. If you pull that fuse and the blower stops than it's pretty likely the blower module is the problem.

The blower module is located near the blower motor. It is usually held in place with 2 screws and will have four or five wires at the connector.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Here's my best shot.
Check the temperature settings for the fan switch.
The low OFF setting should be about 100 degrees.
The ON setting should be around 150 degrees and this is the setting that "makes" the ON contacts.
The HIGH LIMIT setting should be about 180 degrees.
If these are set, can you use a meter to see if the FAN ON contacts are closed?
Lastly, it appears that one hot line should go to one side of the blower and the other hot line should go to the bottom FAN terminal with the other side of the blower being fed by wiring from the top FAN terminal.
Good Luck. Gary

Hi, the new motor takes its own capacitor to run it. This is what the 2- brown wires are for, one will have a white stripe. You will need to but a seperate run capacitor for this motor, a 5 uf, 7.5, or what ever it calls for. they should have told you when you bought the motor. It will have to spade connectors on it where the brown wires connect alone. Use the dual capacitor if that is what you have for the other 220 volt wires.Black and purple will be your 2 hot wires.You can connect either one to the old capacitor on the fan terminal and the other to the load side of the contactor, so when the contactor closes it will energize the motor.Or, take both the black and the purple wires and to the load side ( outlet side ) of the contactor, connect one to one side and the other to the other side. The line side is where your 2 hot wires that connect to the contactor from the incoming wires from the electrical box, you want to be on the other end. I would connect the black to the contactor load side and purple to the old capacitor as long as the old wiring is still on it as it has to be fed by a hot wire from the contactor. Each wire, blk, and purple has to have 120 volts to each one and you can get this a couple of ways. The contactor has several terminals that are not used and if you wire them on the outlet side, they will only be energized when the contactor is closed on a call from the stat, very easy to do. You will have to get a coulple of crimp on connectors to put on the ends of the wires, but the brown ones should already have them for this capacitor. Do not try to put the brown wires on the old run capacitor as you will burn out the new motor! Go get the small run cap for these 2 wires for about $10. I know that you can do this wiring change just remember the blk is hot 120, and purple is hot 120, = 240.volts. If you have removed all of the wires from the old capacitor, then use the contactor to connect to. The compressor wires must stay on the old run cap on the hermetic side and this old cap. must be fed by a hot wire from the contactor to the common terminal, that is marked with a C..If you look at the new motor diagram, it will show you also. Please dont forget to rate me as I know you will be kind, and I will check in on you to see how you are doing. Get this capacitor and it will run. This is a must!! Please keep me posted.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

Unless you list a model number with your request, you aren't likely to get an answer worth anything.

Hello Travis.
If yours is dual zone, I believe the resistor (blower control module) is a solid state. Did you check it using the fan speed selector and test the voltage output on the purple wire?
The gray black wire going into the resistor is a variable voltage output from the heater control panel. This signal is amplified by the resistor/blower control module.
The black wire out of the resistor also needs proper good ground.
There is a fuse in the underhood relay/fuse panel that feedback from the resistor output to the blower (purple wire) is also fed back to the heater control panel. Verify this fuse is good.

When blower motors go bad they will often absorb a lot of electrical current. This current has to go through the blower control/resistor and will often burn them out due to the heat developed from the high current load.
These resistors are also mounted in the airflow out of the fan motor to help cool them so if the fan is still drawing current and not blowing the resistor overloads and burns it out.
Not sure how you tested the resistor but I suspect yours is faulty.
If you would like more advise let me know.

KL