I need a contact point at the overloads to interlock a different

What is year--make--model?
Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections are all good. If your saying starter motor won't crank, check voltage and ground at the starter motor. Usually two voltage circuits at the starter, one comes from the battery, hot all the time. The other circuit goes hot with key in the crank position and in your case, I suppose wired through the starter relay. The relay has two circuits, the load side and control side of relay. The control side of relay needs voltage and ground to energize the relay. The load side of relay, in a diagram shows a line with arrowhead, when relay is energized, that arrowhead line moves to other terminal and that circuit carries voltage to starter. The voltage for load side of relay is usually hot all the time. I can't rule out neutral or clutch switch. The starter motor usually grounds through the engine block. If all voltage and ground circuit for the starter are good, I'd have to make sure the engine isn't seized.
Any testing at the starter, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and functional parking brake is set.

Here are some things to try... First, make suire all battery and starter connections are secure; then if it won't crank, at the starter solenoid (on top of starter) there are two wires, the fat one providing the actual voltage that operates the motor, and the smaller wire that carries the starter actuation control voltage, when the key is turned to "Start". being very careful not to touch grounded metal, use an insulated pair of pliers or screwdriver to connect these two posts together, delivering the always present 12 volts direct from battery to the solenoid. If the starter is good, this should make it crank, indicating a problem further upstream in the crank circuit. If it doesn't crank, you have a bad starter... You can also check this with an inexpensive 12 V test light... ground the clip lead and hold the probe tip to the smaller terminal while having a helper turn the key... If the crank impulse is reaching the starter, the light will come on, and if the light is on but no cranking it is the starter.

If the crank impulse is not reaching the starter, it could be caused by any of the things in the start circuit. The voltage that is supposed to trigger the starter originates from the under dash fuse panel and goes through a kind of self resetting circuit breaker that can be tripped by excessive current heating a short length of resistance wire sufficiently to cause a bi-metal contact strip to curl away from its mating contact and breaking the start circuit... If your problem was heat related, I would suspect the breaker. From there the voltage goes through the ignition switch, and from the ignition switch it goes through a safety interlock circuit which is different for automatic and manual transmissions.

Automatics have "neutral safety" switches that break the circuit if the car is not in park or neutral, and this switch can either be under the shifter cover or built into the transmission. You can try jiggling the shifter while trying to crank; an intermittently faulty switch will usually show some effort to crank (possibly briefly) while doing this.

Manual Trannys have a switch that breaks the start circuit if the clutch pedal is not fully depressed, mounted under the dash in contact with the clutch pedal arm. Working the clutch pedal while holding the key in crank position might produce intermittent start efforts if this is the problem.

If you can locate whichever of these switches you have, you can also use the test light to (1) see if the start signal is coming out of the ignition switch and (2) going through the interlock switch.

You can also temporarily bypass these switches by shorting together or jumpering the two connectors on the switch.

I had a similar problem with my 1991 Prelude that ended up being the starter, and it was HUMIDITY related, of all things! I had driven through some high water by necessity, high enough that the starter was submerged, and then experienced your exact same symptoms... Showed up especially in humid, cold, or rainy weather, The water had washed dirt/sand into the solenoid engagement mechanism and had eroded lubricant, causing the solenoid to bind and not fully engage. Starter replacement solved the problem!

Hope this helps you get it fixed, but don't hesitate to post a comment or question if you need more help, and best of luck!

Control: L1-SS-P-O-OL-OL-M-L2 In series, L1 is line 1, SS is start/stop switch, P is pressure switch, O is oil switch, OL is overload contact, M is magnetic coil (solenoid), L2 is line 2.
The voltage of M must be rated for the control voltage, across the line voltage (240V) or of a control transformer voltage, e.g. 240v/24v. A control voltage would be wired across the line, to L1 and L2.
Power: L1-T1-OL-M1, L2-T2-OL-M2. Line one to Line 1 on contactor, T1 on contactor jumpered to OL (overload heater) and out the overload heater terminal M1 to the motor terminal 1. Same for line 2, Line 2 to L2 on contactor, T2 on contactor jumpered to OL (overload heater) and out the heater overload terminal to M2 motor terminal.
The heater overload relays needs to be chosen by the motor full load current, a chart is given with a motor starter on selecting heater size. If no chart is available, go 115% of the motor FLA (full load amps) to select a heater size. E.G. 25 FLA motor at 115% is 28.75a. Sorry, no schematic available now, draw your own from this info. If using 3 phase, add the third line as duplicating one other line1 or line 2

You need to do a starter draw test as the starter sounds like it is drawing too much current. Also make sure your battery connections are clean and tight. You might also have your battery load tested. Harley AGM battery is a very good battery BUT even if new may be a weak/bad battery so test it also. Final stop after testing the battery and starter would be, but if it is easier to get done first do a ground voltage drop test to be sure you have a good clean secure starter to ground connection. WHAT IS YOUR BATTERY SURFACE VOLTAGE WHEN YOU START TRYING TO START YOUR BIKE??
VOLTAGE STATE OF CHARGE of AGM Battery
12.7 V = 100%
12.6 V = 75%
12.3 V = 50%
12.0 V = 25%
11.8 V = 0%

If the circuit had a ground resistance all voltage/potential would not be able to be used up because all amperage would not be able to be pushed through the circuit.

The negative or ground circuit can be checked as well to see if there is high resistance at the ground point of a circuit after all of the positive circuitry right up to the point where the electrical current will go to ground. To test the ground circuit place/connect the voltmeter negative lead (BLACK) to the most negative part of the circuit which will almost always be the negative battery post because there is never anything more negative than the negative post of the battery. THEN place/connect the positive lead (RED) to the ground you wish to
check. For example the starter mounting bolt or the starter frame case or the frame in some cases and THEN activate the circuit i.e. turn on the lights, activate the horn, push the start button etc. WHICH will allow you to read the
potential difference or voltage dropped on the negative or ground circuit. This technique is very effective for identifying poor grounds due to hidden corrosion, powdered paint points etc. It is much better than an ohmmeter because even the slightest connection may cause an ohmmeter to give a good reading even though the resistance would not allow a greater sufficient/required current to pass through corrosion or a powdered paint point etc. which will cause a voltage
drop or potential difference in the ground circuit. Since you are going from the negative post of the battery back to the positive post of the battery through the frame there should be a reading of ZERO for a good circuit i.e. no resistance/no voltage loss and again if there is a voltage reading this would be showing voltage/potential lost or dropped

Remember that in a circuit in which electric current will be flowing through a circuit from the battery positive to the ground through the end component, in this case the starter, you need full voltage or potential at the starter post to push electric current through the starter windings to ground to operate the starter which in the circuits we are discussing is/are designed to use twelve volts to do this job. Voltage drop testing tests the voltage applied to the component because it is testing the circuit up to the end component and not the health and serviceability of the end component itself because the entire voltage /potential will be used up or dropped through the starter windings (end component) before the circuit completes and meets the ground. Therefore you could not do a voltage drop test from the positive battery post to ground at the starter mounting bolts because all you would be doing would be bypassing the end component and merely measuring battery voltage. If you wanted to measure resistance or voltage drop in the starter ground circuit you would measure from the most positive point of the ground circuit which would be the starter grounding point, mounting bolts for example, to the most negative point in the negative circuit which would be the negative battery post. If the ground for the starter is good i.e. no resistance the starter circuit would be complete and all of the voltage/potential would be used up pushing the current (amperage) flow through the circuit.





If the circuit had a ground resistance all voltage/potential would not be able to be used up because all amperage would not be able to be pushed through the circuit.

Sounds like the solenoid rebuilding is deficient.

Where are you jump starting to, the starter side of the solenoid or the battery side?? If the solenoid is no good jumping to the battery side would do no good as the current would still have to go through the solenoid large contacts but if you bypass the solenoid the pull in and hold in windings will also be bypassed so the starter would not engage but this would tell you if the starter will spin.

Best to voltage drop test to determine if there is a problem before or in the starter, solenoid etc. If the solenoid clicks you know the relay is working. If the solenoid clicks once it indicates that the pull in and the hold in windings are activating and working. If the starter does nothing it indicates that there may be too little voltage and current to operate the starter or there is possibly a bad ground at the starter base or the starter is defective.

First off check the battery visually, do a voltage and a load test and check all connections at the battery and the starter to ensure that the system is operational.

If the starter clicks a lot the battery is likely low on charge or simply no good. Charge it and check it.

If the battery is good and has proper voltage and the starter relay clicks but the starter does nothing or turns slowly or stalls do a starter circuit voltage drop test.

VOLTAGE DROP Testing checks the integrity of all wiring, switches, circuit breakers, fuses and connectors between the source and destination while under load by measuring the difference in voltage/potential (the actual voltage dropped between the source and destination). In this starter test because we are assuming that the starter relay clicks which shows that it is working it will simply be a test of the circuitry between the battery, starter and ground. If the relay was/is the problem you would have battery voltage at the battery cable stud on the solenoid but you would not get any current through the solenoid to the starter terminal.

The benefits of this manner of testing are great. The readings are not very sensitive to battery whatever actual battery voltage is and the readings show the actual voltage dropped not that voltage is present. It is quicker and easier and more foolproof and more accurate than other means of circuit testing such as resistance testing with an ohmmeter and it tests the circuit as it is actually used and it will show up otherwise hard or very hard to find poor connections (high resistance) etc.

This system of voltage drop testing can be used on starter circuits, lighting circuits, ignition circuits, and etc. Always start from most positive point which is most likely always going to be the battery positive post and go to most negative point which is the point at the end of or through or after the electric current will have gone through most or all of the circuit to be tested I.e. the destination point or the destination component, for example the starter relay terminal at the starter or the starter connection after the solenoid of you want to check resistance all the way through the system including the solenoid contacts.

First do a voltage reading on the battery and note what it is.

Using a voltmeter attach the red meter lead to the most positive part of the circuit, which would be the positive post of the battery and attach the black meter lead to the final destination or component in the circuit (if testing a starter circuit this would be the terminal on the starter, not the solenoid). THEN try to activate the starter and observe the meter reading. The meter will read the voltage dropped or the difference in potential between the source and the destination. An ideal circuit voltage drop reading would be 1 volt or less. If there is an open in the circuit (i.e. NO electricity is reaching the terminal) the voltmeter should read source voltage volts which means all the voltage was dropped. A normal good starter circuit should not show more than a one volt drop. If more than 1 volt is dropped there is a problem somewhere in the circuitry before the starter terminal. In this case leaving the red voltmeter lead on the battery positive post, move the negative voltmeter lead to the solenoid stud where the battery cable attaches and activate the starter circuit again. If the voltage reading is now 1 volt or less clean, repair, tighten the starter solenoid to starter terminal stud connections and test again and if no change clean/repair the internal solenoid contacts or replace the solenoid with a new/good one. If there is still a voltage drop greater than 1 volt move the negative voltmeter lead from the solenoid terminal stud to the actual battery cable terminal end at the solenoid terminal stud and again activate the starter circuit. If there is a 1 volt or less reading the battery cable terminal end and/or solenoid terminal stud and/or the connection between the two is faulty, loose, corroded or etc. Clean and tighten and retest. If there is still more than a 1 volt reading on the voltmeter the problem is a loose or corroded or otherwise bad connection between the battery cable terminal end and the battery positive post or the battery cable itself is bad. Clean and tighten the battery cable terminal and battery positive post and test again. If there is still more than a one volt reading on the voltmeter the battery cable is bad and will need to be replaced.

If there is less than a 1 volt reading when the test is done at the starter terminal the circuit up to that point is good so the next step will be to do a negative or ground circuit voltage drop test by connecting the negative or black voltmeter lead to the most negative point which is normally the negative battery post (or the closest thing thereto if, like some Sportsters, the battery post is hard or impossible to get to) and then connect the positive or red voltmeter lead to the starter mounting studs. Then activate the starter circuit again and if the voltage reading is greater than 1 volt clean the battery negative cable ends and battery post and negative cable to motorcycle frame or other grounding point, tighten same and similarly the starter mounting points and studs because there is a problem with the starter ground (could be looseness, corrosion, powder coat/paint problems etc). If the voltage reading is 1 volt or less than 1 volt in this test the ground circuit is okay and it will be necessary to perform a starter current draw test on the vehicle (and/or a starter current free draw test on the bench). If the results are within the specifications for the starter in these tests remove the spark plugs, raise the rear wheel so it can spin unimpeded, put the transmission in 5th gear and rotate the rear wheel to check for engine, transmission, primary and/or crankshaft resistance/bind. If the results are not within the amperage specifications for the particular starter replace or repair the starter motor to bring within the system amperage specifications.

What is wrong????????? That would be a guess on anyones part here ! Testing the electrical circuits involved would be the proper way to diagnose this no start problem ! Using a volt meter an wiring diagram to check voltage at different point's in the starter circuit . voltage drop testing ! Plus knowing how the starter system works !
Starter Circuit Operation
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse , voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the park/neutral position switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G102 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (RED) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.


Starter Voltage Drop

How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

Starters don't send signals

The Solenoid on it gets battery voltage to
it's coil & then pulls in the contacts to power
the starter motor.

Your asking about the solenoid control circuit
Need a wiring diagram to start any testing of that
circuit

If that isn't the problem, then check for fuel pressure,
spark or injector pulse & the ignition switch & such

Need wiring diagrams at some point to understand
what you working on

HI.... I'm a tech AND guitar player. Tubes may light but not work.
Take it to a amp repair guy that has a tube tester
Otherwise you could spend BIG $$ on lots of tubes

CHARGING SYSTEM
The charging system is an integral part of the battery and starter systems. Since all of these systems work together, any diagnosis and testing should be done in conjunction.

The charging system is protected by a 12 gauge fusible link located in the A11 circuit. This fusible link is between the generator and the starter.

The generator ground is provided through a case ground in the generator to its attaching bracket. This generator uses a voltage regulator internal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

When the vehicle is running, battery voltage is applied to the generator field terminal through the A142 circuit. This circuit is the output from the contact side of the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay. The ground, or voltage regulated side, of the generator field is controlled by the K20 circuit which connects to cavity 4 of the PCM connector.

When there is current present in the field, and the rotor is turning, the stator in the generator produces a B+ voltage that is supplied to the battery through the A11 and A0 circuits. The A11 circuit is connected to the output terminal of the generator and connects to the engine starter motor battery feed terminal. The A0 circuit is a direct feed line from the battery and connects to the engine starter motor.

Grounding for the system is accomplished at the battery negative terminal. These grounds connect to the engine and body.

HELPFUL INFORMATION
Inspect for a blown fusible link in the A11 circuit between the generator and the starter motor.
other Fusible link goes from the starter to the alternator. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

You havent indicated what voltage of phase. Is it single phase or 3 phase. 120V or 480V? Bacically you need some type of fuseable disconnect (breaker or fuses) a motor starter (contactor with overloads) and something to control the starter (either manual starter or coil energized starter controlled remotly. A good source of info is: www. Mikeholt.com