I have power to the gas solenoid on my millermatic 211. however no gas to the tip. tank 3/4 full. have gas to flare fitting that attaches to unit. do you think bad solenoid?

Code po443 is for EVAP purge solenoid malfunction which will cause the car to stall. Also over filling gas also causes the EVAP canister to choke with excess gas.
Please perform the following test the component failure:-
Tests/Procedures: 1. Monitor the purge solenoid for having 12v Key On Engine Running (KOER).

2. Using a voltmeter attached to the White wire, monitor for 12v to come and go.

3. Check the purge solenoid for clicking at idle. Tech Tips: If the voltage is alternating from 12-0 volts, that indicates that the ECM is trying to trigger the solenoid. If there is no clicking, the solenoid is faulty.

Just a rough explanation. First gear is the low clutch engaged by power to the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids, second gear applies a band by power to The 1-2 solenoid turned off. Third gear, however, both solenoids have no power. If you are showing power to any solenoids, there is an electrical issue. If the solenoids shut off, the direct clutch is worn and I must say this is very, very common for this clutch to fail.

Replace the sending unit. It is attached to the pump in the fuel tank. Your better off replacing both together, since you will need to drop the tank. Run it near empty first so the tank is lighter.(TIP: only buy the pump from a Chevy Dealer, after market pumps don't last as long. So it's cheaper to buy ONE that costs a little more, than TWO that cost almost as much.) If you take it to a Mechanic or the dealer, bring in the neighborhood of $700.00. If you do it yourself it will take you a day to do the job.

sounds like a fuel sending unit issue from your description.
see if this fits the bill.

Link Here!!

that is for the

2001 - 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 Fuel Tank Sending Unit for V8 8.1L

good luck.

by the way the issue may be one or more things to be honest. the fuel in the tank may be moving around and as it shushes from side to side the electrical resistance in the variable potentiometer of the fuel sending unit will either increase or decrease.

an example would be a full tank of gas will cause a floater attached to a lever to float to the top of the gas tank. now as the gas gets lower the level wil drop and so will the float. now remember it's attached to a pot so as it moves it's electrical value decreases. and the gas gauge reads the value as a fuel level.

if the gauge dose not move when the vehicle is idle then id say it;s just the gas moving around within the tank. it's worth a shot to test this before spending any money on it.

good luck.

There r ways around that if u follow the brake line u could cut the broken one right before the gas tank then flare it n connect a new line n run it on the side of the gas tank with wire ties . Also u can put a compression fitting on the line u cut after the gas tank that's Wat I did two years ago n they r still working fine .if u can get the flare kit do it that way cuz I belive they can fail u for the compression fitting

sounds like you have a restriction in the fuel inlet pipe,( maybe air locking) also your tank sender unit neads replacing to fix you gauge fault, or it maybe that it has something that is not alowingf it to move freely inside the tank, have a good look inside when low on fuel. through the hole where the sender is fitted.

Take a pair of cutters and cut the rusted line on both sides of the gas tank and at the fitting for the rubber hose going to the axle. Pull the line out from behind the tank (it is in plastic retainers so it may be hard but just pull, it will come). There should be a union near the front somewhere, cut the line there also. Use a roll of new bulk steel line and a DOUBLE flaring tool and the necessary fittings. Put the fitting for the rear on the line and flare it, tape the fitting to the line so it doesn't move while installing. Now roll some line out straight and fish it through between the tank and frame making any bends you need as you go. Bend line as needed and attach rear fitting to axle hose. Then cut, install fitting and flare front of line where needed. Attach front of line and bleed the system.

find out what size the fuel line is then purchase two union fittings for that size, aquire a tubing flare tool in order to flare the ends of the 1 ft. length of tubing you will need to buy for the repair,cut out the damaged length with a tubing cutter making sure you have a clean oil drain pan handy because the gas may continue to flow from tank after the breach of the line,make sure there is an almost empty tank before attempting this job if possible, then take the nut and slide it over the cars cut fuel line that is to be repaired then choose the appropriate hole size on the flaring tool clamp it over the fuel line with about an 1/8 of an inch sticking out, then apply the flare making certain the nut is slid over the fuel line before flaring and it is facing the correct direction, after flaring remove the flaring tool and repeat as neccessary on the replacement section of tubing and on the other side of the fuel line to be repaired tighten up unions with two line wrenches at the same time and check for leaks.

i just went through that problem

Evap canister / close solenoid and air filter $211- 230.00 in parts

$675- $71.00 at dealships for this small 30 minute task

If no check engine light Evap canister and air filter - fixxes problem 100 %
note:you may be able to get by just replacing air filter- works
rarely

if have check engine- close solenoid and purge solenoid may need replace- you local autozone- like autozone will pull check codes for free

the how to:

Jack car up in rear - behind right rear tire - canister -canister close solenoid & air filter are located in a plastic box with metal strap and one bolt.

Unscrew bolt everything drops down the EVAP CANISTER is held to plastic box by wirer tie . Remove wire tie and solenoid connection.
There is a small metal wire clip the holds the solenoid electrical connection together with a flat screw driver pry up the wire clip , off is okay too , ....it will go back on.

Once you have done all that you have full access there are i believe from memory 3 rubber hoses with clips ......Mark hose connects very important mark the hoses way the going on evap canister with color tape .

Next, remove whole assembly- the solenoid and air filter will come with the evap canister.

Now that have the whole assembly move to your work bench
look to see how the soleniod hook up to the canister and the air filter - now, disconnect the hose to black solenoid and remove the air filter which hook to solenoid and solenoid at same to ......

Next seperate the the solenoid and air filter- you should be air to put your mouth on solenoid and blew air in one hole and out the other- this solenoid is noramlly open- if air dosen't go threw is stuck closed and must be replaced.

same with air filter- this air filter are know for get plugged and should be replaced every 30,000 miles.

Also note: over fill you gas tank , at fill up - can cause the Evap to get liquid gas inside which cause the chorcoal in the filter to swell up and plyug the system up.------ you should when fill up stop pump gas after the auto pump click off on normal work tank and not try to top off you tank.

note: check with your deal for exact wieghts
weigh the evap canister - six pound - replace it- new one is about 4-4.5 pounds - it is just best to replace .The evap holds gas fumes then send to engine so that dosn't vent to

All parts are dealships only -

This is easy fix and normal, for gas fill problems

canister Evap 161.00
canister close solenoid 43.00 may or may not be used
air filter 7.00

not used in this fix- check engine fix use these parts
sensor price ?
purge valve 39.00
canister close solenoid 43.00

There 2 filters on your car:

1. By either the left or right suspension strut tower (gold colored canister)
2. By the gas tank

I suggest you replace both.

The one by the gas tank is like a prefilter and I will start with that one first:

Jack up car and put on axle stands or ramps then locate filter on the fuel line. Disconnect hose clamp from gas tank hose side FIRST (inlet) and use a spare bolt to block off the line otherwise fuel will spill all over the place.

Disconnect other side (outlet) then replace in opposite order.

You will need to use the grip part (not the cutting part) of a pair of pliers to GENTLY twist the hoses to break the seal on the rubber hose has made on the pipes as after years of clamping pressure they are bound to be tightly sealed on there. Remember to do it gently as you run the risk of crimping the pipes (not good!)

Also the filter should come with an arrow stamped on the body of it. Be sure to install the new filter with the arrow pointing towards the front of the car (this is very important as they are designed to flow only one way)

Sometimes these filters dont attach with hose clamps. In this case you will need a flare nut spanner (see below for explanation)

Now for the one in the engine bay:

It might pay to disconnect the battery to avoid the risk of fire.

I'll warn you that the fittings on this one are pretty tight so you will probably need a big bar with a socket to crack them.

The top fitting is what is known as a banjo fitting whereby a big bolt goes through a ring that is connected to the pipe.

Below this ring will be a hex (like a nut as part of the body of the filter). Attach an appropriately sized spanner on the hex then attach the bar with socket to the nut.

The spanner on the hex part is used to stop the filter from twisting while you apply pressure to the bolt to undo it (you may need someone to help hold the spanner). Only undo it untill the boolt has 'cracked' then leave it.

The other fitting (inlet) will either be on the bottom of the filter or at the top by the outlet but either way directions are the same:

You will need whats called a flare nut spanner (also called a pipe spanner) the right size for the nut fitting. It's like a ring spanner but with a cutout in it to slip over the pipe and over the nut fitting.

You also have a hex type fitting on this side too so attach appropriate sized spanner, attach the flare nut spanner and loosen as you did the other fitting (using the spanner to stop the filter twisting).

Take both pipes off but be careful with the banjo fitting side as there are copper sealing washers and you want to remember where they go (replacement washers should come with the new filter)

Replace washers and fit pipes in reverse order, attach battery, start up and enjoy :)

Hope this helps :)