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Re: . Burners will not work unless the down draft fan is...
Call Jenn-Aire to have a technician troubleshoot your cook top on site. You will save time and aggravation whether your cook top is gas or electric, possibly wired improperly, etc,etc,etc.
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have an accredited electrician check the unit for a problem in the current usage when all burners are running ( elements shorting out through failing insulation, excessive resistance etc)
The circuit breaker should have sufficient capacity for all burners on at full heat but if one is shorting out through a developing fault , that may be exceeding the breaker capacity
I had the same problem. Mine was caused by liquid seeping into the
infinite switch (the switch that gets rotated by the knob to set burner
temperature). This caused one of the live wires to short to ground
within the switch. Bad Design IMHO. Replacing the switch fixed the
problem (you can get replacement parts at Searspartsdirect.com - search
using the cooktop model number). You first need to remove the unit from its installation. Start by disconnecting the exhaust fan from the ductwork. Then push the cooktop up. To get at the switch you need to
remove the top by taking off only the top row of screws all around the
unit and also in the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is)
1) turn off power at the breaker.
2) remove hold down screws
3) pop up cooktop out of counter top
4) remove knobs and downdraft grille
5) remove ceramic top (screws around outside and also in side grille opening)
6) unplug burners replace with new burner
I had the same problem. Mine was caused by liquid seeping into the infinite switch (the switch that gets rotated by the knob to set burner temperature). This caused one of the live wires to short to ground within the switch. Bad Design IMHO. Replacing the switch fixed the problem (you can get replacement parts at Searspartsdirect.com - search using the cooktop model number). You first need to remove the unit from its installation. Start by disconnecting the exhaust fan from the ductwork. Then push the cooktop up. To get at the switch you need to remove the top by taking off only the top row of screws all around the unit and also in the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is)
Turn off the circuit breaker to the cooktop. Verify by making sure the burners/fan do not come on. Disconnect the exhaust fan (underneath the cooktop) from the ductwork by removing the tape that joins it. While you are underneath the cooktop, open the junction box. Label the four wires that are joined so that you will be able to connect them later. Then disconnect the four wires. Remove the metal sheating that connects to the junction box (there is a nut on the inside of the junction box that you loosen. Pull out all the supply wires (from the mains) from the junction box. Then push the cooktop up and out and lay it flat on a table with the flat side down. Take off only the top row of screws all around the unit. Rotate the unit so that you can get to the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is). Remove the two center screws. Then pull the black top off.
For an exploded view of the unit check out http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47639&diagram_id=681565#d681565
if it is an old stove i would say have it serviced/checked over. if it is a newer stove i am guessing the circuit breaker predates it and is rated for the old stove therefore you will need to have a larger circuit breaker installed (by a licenced electrician)
Sounds like breaker tripped so no 220 to unit. Reset breaker. The burner switch you first turned on probably blew out and needs replacing, so don't turn it on again. If all else works ok, then that is it. Unless you are handy you may want to call the repair man.
you may have lost a leg of your 240V service. make sure you have 240 to the appliance and then start chasing down where you lost it. there is no onboard trip or reset on this unit
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