Fisher Paykel diverter valve malfunction? or control module issue

- Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 1:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

3 - Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 3:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

9 - Size setting fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 9:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Reset machine size as per service manual instructions. If fault repeats replace Motor control module.

10 - Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 10:
Primary Source: Thermistor.
Action: Replace Thermistor.

11 - Pressure Sensor Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 11:
Primary Source: Pressure Tube.
Action: 1 - Empty all water from the machine. Remove pressure tube from pressure sensor, clear pressure tube of any water and reconnect tube (blow down the tube is necessary). 2 - If fault repeats, replace Motor Control Module.

12 - Flood Protection Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 12:
Primary Source: Water Valves.
Action: If the water valves are on continuously, check that the water valves turn off mechanically by disconnecting power to the machine.
Secondary Source: Pump System.
Action: Check pump for blockage and drain hose for correct height(end not immersed in water) or kinked.
Tertiary Source: motor control module.
Action: If water valves are been driven on electrically, replace motor control module.

36 - Water Leak Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 36:
Motor control module has needed to top up the water level more than 4 times during wash/rinse cycle. Most likely cause is waster siphoning out or the machine has developed a leak.
Primary Source: Drainage system.
Action: Check that the hose is not less than 850mm from the ground
Secondary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Make sure the pressure tube is fitted correctly and doesnt have any holes.

37 - Blocked pump:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 37:
Primary Source: Drain System.
Action:
1. Check that the drain hose has not been kinked.
2. Check the length of the hose. 1m is maximum extension.
3. Check drain pump winding for open circuit.(Note: Pumps are fitted with a thermal cut out and will reset after cooling)
4. Check for physical blockage to pump and hoses.

38 - Pressure Sensor Fault(empty reading during wash cycle):
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 38:
Primary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Check if tube is fitted correctly, check for blockages or holes in the pressure tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module
Action: Replace the module.

39 - Pressure Tube Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 39:
Same as fault 38.

40 - Bowl Dis-engage Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 40:
Primary Source: Mechanical.
Action:
1. Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing the clutch from re-engaging. Excessive suds can also stop the bowl rotating.
2. Check the clutch splines for physical damage.
3. Check that the pressure tube has not come off, kinked or blocked(blow down the tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Board.
Action: Change Board.

43 - Out Of Balance Switch Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 43:
Motor control module has found that signal returning from the out of balance switch indicates that the switch is permanently on or the harness to it is disconnected.
Action:
1. Check the level of the machine.
2. Check wiring to the switch.
3. Check switch for continuity and corrosion.

44 - Water in Bowl During Spin:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 44:
Primary Source: Drain system.
Action: Check for blockages/kinks in drain hose and function of the drain pump.

48 - Hot and Cold Inlet Valve Incorrect Signal:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 48:
Primary Source: Wiring.
Action: Check the wiring.
Secondary Source: Inlet Valves.
Action: Check the resistance of the coils.
Tertiary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Change Module.

49 - Cold Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 49:
Action: See fault 48.

50 - Hot Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 50:
Action: See fault 48.

51 - Diverter Valve Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 51:
Primary Source: Blocked diverter valve.
Action: Check for foreign objects in the valve.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module & Diverter Valve
Action: Plug the machine into the power point but off at the control panel. Check voltage on the plugs at the diverter valve. If voltage around 230V, change diverter valve and motor control module

Is the valve installed the right way.
When diverter valve is powered will pump water over bowl.
Your motor controller board may be faulty,
And need diverter driver parts replaced.
Set you machine to Traditional wash only to bypass
Eco active filling that users diverter valve.

51.(00110011) Diverter Valve Fault
The motor controller has registered a drop in water level in the recirculation phase of the wash cycle. Water is being drained instead of recirculated.
Primary Source:
Action:
Diverter valve.
Remove the diverter valve and check for blockages as well as checking that the hinge mechanism on the valve hasn't broken. Remove the hinge from the solenoid and check that the flap is free to move. Check that water hasn't been sprayed onto the valve from an external source and caused the solenoid to blow.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Turn the power off at the machine but leave the power on at the wall,
then measure the voltage across the terminals of the wax actuator. If a reading of 110/230V is achieved, the motor controller has failed due to a valve fault and both will need to be replaced.

You have got the valve in back to to front.
you would get fault code 51 soon having it like that.
(00110011) Diverter Valve Fault
The motor controller has registered a drop in water level in the recirculation phase of the wash cycle. Water is being drained instead of recirculated.
Primary Source:
Action:
Diverter valve.
Remove the diverter valve and check for blockages as well as checking that the hinge mechanism on the valve hasn't broken. Remove the hinge from the solenoid and check that the flap is free to move. Check that water hasn't been sprayed onto the valve from an external source and caused the solenoid to blow.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Turn the power off at the machine but leave the power on at the wall,
then measure the voltage across the terminals of the wax actuator. If a reading of 230V is achieved, the motor controller has failed due to a valve fault and both will need to be replaced.

This is error code 51
51. (00110011) Phase 5 and 6 Eco - Diverter Valve Fault
Primary: The motor controller has registered a drop in water level in the
recirculation phase of the wash cycle, water is being drained instead of recirculated.
Or water has been sprayed onto the Valve from an external source and caused the
solenoid to blow.
Action:
Turn the power off at the machine but leave the power on at the wall, then measure
the voltage across the terminals of the wax actuator, if a reading of 230V is
achieved the motor controller has failed due to the valve and both will need to be
replaced.
Secondary: Check for blockage in the valve itself or a broken hinge mechanism.

Error code 51 usually means a faulty diverter valve. Try and run a wash cycle, and observe the drain hose. If water comes out, the diverter valve should be fine, if no water comes out you should take your diverter valve out and check for debris, or continue to read through the following possibilities of why your washing machine is acting up, and the actions to take.

1. Diverter valve
Action - Check diverter valve continuity. If open circuit, replace diverter valve.

2. Motor Controller Board (drive circuitry blown).
Action - Replace Motor Controller Board
3. Diverter valve harness/connectors.
Action - Replace wiring harness

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

if no lights r on your display then your control module is proberly faulty. why did u change diverter valve and drain pump? please reply 4 more help.

First scoop out the water or run the pump in diagnostics mode and use a pitcher to bail out the water as it flows from the recirculation hose. Next, tip the machine back enough so that you can set something like a gallon paint can or other sturdy object under the front left corner of the machine to keep it propped up while you work under it. These machines are actually very lightweight. You do not remove the tub to service the diverter. There is a single 3/8" hex head bolt (which also is recessed with a phillips head) that secures the diverter to the base via a white nylon band. Remove the bolt, then remove the band, which is actually wrapped around the drain hose . Now remove the two wires, and the three hose clamps and all three hoses. Pop the valve out and take a close look at that diverter, if it is broken at the tab, this will be obvious.

The diverter is part number 426862P. You can order one here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/category.php?category_id=54

Hi. I work on these machines every day.
The problem with your model 10 is that the diverter valve is not in the DRAIN position, so when the pump runs, it is sending the water right back into the tub. The issue is one of two things-
Either the tab on the diverter valve has physically broken off and the machine needs a new diverter valve, or there is a short in the machine's controller and it is sending a constant signal to that valve, causing it to never be in the DRAIN position. When the diverter is NOT energized, the flap is at rest and the water will go out the drain. When the valve IS energized, the water is supposed to go thru the recirculation hose.
You want to check that diverter valve first and formost. That's going to tell you what you need to know. Look closely at it and you'll see if the little tab that goes from the wax motor to the flapper lever is broken off. The diverter valve is located down underneath the tub in the right rear, it has three hoses attached to it and two wires. It's grey in color and the little wax motor is brown.

If you would like to obtain a service manual, you can get them from http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net

The pump itself is supposed to run during the fill portion of the REGULAR cycle. It is supposed to be mixing the incoming fresh water with your laundry detergent and pouring the solution on your clothes as the tub rotates slowly. If the water is draining out of the machine, then there has been some sort of issue with the DIVERTER VALVE. It either has a broken lever on it or an object has become wedged in it, holding it open all the time. If you try the PERMA PRESS cycle, you will probably find that cycle will work, as it does not use the recirculate function.

I would check the diverter valve first. You can tip the washer back and remove the hose clamps with no tools and shine a light up inside and look for an object. You also can inspect the lever and will clearly see if it is broken.

If the washer needs a diverter valve, the part number is a 426862P and is easy to change. You can get them from Fisher Paykel Parts:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/111-4/Diverter-Valve-GWL10-11-15.php

They also have downloadable service manuals (but I have pretty much told you what you need here)
Here is the GWL10 manual:

http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/115-15/GWL10US-Service-Manual.php