I need to replace my battery meter. The LED's on the left side went out. Where can I get a replacement?

If one half of the screen on a Samsung LED TV goes black and then the other side but one side always works, then it most likely means that there is an issue with the LCD panel or internal hardware of the TV. It is recommended to contact Samsung support and schedule a service appointment to have a technician check the TV for any potential repairs that may need to be done.

no info generic answer the led most likely causing problems

In a car that has been around for a while there is always the possibility of corrosion, or vibration created failures in the wiring or insulation. A test light or volt ohm meter would be helpful to determine that the voltage is reaching the led or light bulbs. If not then jumper the voltage from battery to light. It should illuminate. If it does not then the ground side is open. You will need to trace the wiring to the car frame. If the jumper voltage lights the lamp then trace the wiring back from the bulb to the fuse block to the firewall plug to the on off switch with the test light or volt meter. All along the way look for loose or corroded connections. Hope that is helpful.

if you have a replacement meter bulb and solder skills , the bulb is in the side of the meter attached inside a rubber grommet.

Well you need to get out the DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an check for battery voltage at the fuel pump relay ! if you replaced it you saw the holes it plugs into in the relay / fuse box ? Put you volt meter on the 20 volt scale , hook the black lead to the battery negative or a good engine ground an take the red lead an touch - don't stick it in an spread the terminals . Two of the holes should have battery voltage ,if not check the EEC power relay ! If you find voltage at two holes change the meter to ohms , leave the black connector on a good ground an touch the red to the two holes left , one should be open or OL on the meter , this is the control side from the engine computer . the last hole should show a few ohms resistance , this is down through the wiring to an through the fuel pump to ground . You have two different wiring circuits , control an load side , load side being power to the fuel pump an control side is power an the engine computer supplying a ground energizing the relay closing the contacts in the relay sending battery voltage to the fuel pump. Test don't guess !

Hello. Install amp meter on the battery main feed. One the amp meter is coupled by direct or induced coupling. Start remove the fuses and watch the amp meter and when the amp meter indicator drops that one of the circuit that have some shorted or running. Now they can be more than one circuit that is operating when it shouldn't.

First thing with the amp meter connect disconnect the alternator. Do get wrong here. It a percaution if you happen to concur a large short. Also, when disconnecting the alternator look at the amp meter to see if there is a drop in current being used.

An alternator is a three phase AC generator. There are 6 to 8 high current diodes hook up where it turn the three phase AC voltage to DC voltage half wave + side of the AC. Then this DC voltage being combined voltages goes to a regulator which smooth out the voltage to 13.8 volts approx. The 13.8 DC voltage is need to recharge the battery. Because the vehicle operates on 12 voltage system it uses the battery for the constant voltages of 12 volts and a story house of current. stewbison

You guessed exactly what I was going to say. Even a new battery is not fully charged when you install it in your bike. Between your riding and then leaving your key on, the battery died. It was going to happen sooner or later whether you left your key on or not. This way at least you were not stuck on the side of the highway. Man, I hate that.


You need to check the charging system. To do this you need to fully charge the battery and you'll need a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter. Using the meter's function selector switch, set it to DC VOLTS with a range of 20 volts or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the positive battery post and the black meter lead to the negative battery post. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute or so, your meter should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. Any lower than 14 volts, your battery will not be charged.

If you don't have the minimum voltage at the battery in the previous test, you need to check the alternator to see if it's generating sufficient voltage. You'll have to follow the wires from your voltage regulator going to the lower left front of your engine until you come to a plug. Unplug the plug and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts in the rubber plug. This is where you are going to test the voltage from your alternator. Since you'll be testing AC voltage, it makes no difference which meter lead goes into which contact, just one lead into each contact. Set your meter's function selector switch to AC VOLTS with a 50 volt or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert one meter lead into each of the metal contacts. Do not let the leads touch each other or the engine case or ground. Your meter should read at least 30 volts.

If you do not have the 30 volts from the alternator, your stator is bad and must be replaced. If you have 30 volts or more but not the 14 volt minimum at the battery, your voltage regulator is probably bad. Make sure you voltage regulator is properly grounded. Check the condition of the wire coming from the regulator going to the battery. This wire is usually larger in diameter than the other two going to the alternator.

There is something on ... batteries do die naturally ... about 1 to 2% a month if left alone, but not in three days. Put a volt meter between the + cable and the + post (remove the cable). Observe the amp draw. Remove the fuses one at a time until the reading toes to zero.

If no change ... consider the alternator ... umplug it from the circuit. You could have a fault in the diode bridge.

The first thing you can do is check the fuses, the fuse box is either under the seat or behind the cover on the left side as you are sitting on the bike, if all is good then remove the speedo cluster and connect it to your battery directly, Here is the procedure from the manual

CHECKING THE LEDs

The following procedure applies to all of

the LEDs.

1. Check:

LED (for proper operation)

a. Disconnect the meter assembly coupler

(meter assembly side).

b. Connect two jumper leads 1 from the

battery terminals to the respective coupler

terminals as shown.

WAWRNARINNGING

• A wire that is used as a jumper lead must

have at least the same capacity of the

battery lead, otherwise the jumper lead

may burn.

• This check is likely to produce sparks,

therefore make sure that no flammable

gas or fluid is in the vicinity.

c. When the jumper leads are connected to

the terminals the respective LED should

illuminate.

Does not light ® Replace the meter

assembly.

This will tell you if it is the meter, If the meter is good then you will need to follow the wires connected to it till you find the problem. I hope this is a big help to you.

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