I have a 1996 sea doo xp model jetski, i have rebuilt the carbs and replaced all the fuel lines. i also removed the gas tank and thouroughly cleaned the whole fuel system .. it is still bogging a bit when i give it full throttle at take off, i am thinking the carbs need to be adjusted so my question is WHAT IS THE FACTORY settings for tuning the carb on the dual carb 787 1996 sea doo xp model ???

SOURCE: Rebuilt carbs. flooding rear cylinder

My bike started doing the same thing. I pulled the carbs put new kits in them and it still does the same thing. It does not seem like a spark issue because the fuel consumption would not be this bad, but the floats looked good. The needle valves and seats are new. I am not sure what to think at this point. I even replaced the intake manifolds and flushed my fuel system. It starts good initially. It is almost like the fuel pump is pushing to much pressure and over coming the needle valve. Has anyone seen this before?
Thanks,

SOURCE: RM85 w/ 105 kit bogs down with rapid throttle onset rate

hi buddy set the needle clip to its normal condition and also on the carb is the mixture screw you need to turn this all the way in and out 1 turns and try this you will always get a bog if you rev fully too quick i had this problem with my kx85 and it was just this hope this helped mate i will send the pic in a mo

Testimonial: "Appreciate the help. I've been all over w/ the air mixture screw. Still smokey and bogging down."

SOURCE: echo shred n vac starts,idles, runs to about half power then bogs

Check the grommet that sits on top of tank where lines from go carb. Grommet may be rotten and crack. Try that. Have you ever replace the carb repair kit? The diaphram may be torn, defoam or have holes in them. Carb kit cost arount $10, but don't mess with the welch plug or screen in carb.

SOURCE: My 2002 V-Star 1100 Classic

G'day.
I can't solve this(there are litaraly hundreds of things it could be) BUT I can give you a way to narrow it down a bit.
I'm thinking it may not be running on all cylinders and an easy way to check is to start the bike from cold(do this test in the first few seconds after starting from cold DONT BURN YOURELF),put a bit of spit on your fingers and quickly touch each exhaust header in turn, to see that they are all warming up equally together.This will narrow down if your problem is related to one or more cylinders.
If one or more of the pipes is cold/er than the others then you know which cylinders are causing the problem.
If you find that this is the case- one or more of the headers are cold then.
Remove the spark plugs-Keep in order.Examine the plugs-used plugs tell a story.How do they look?clean?black & sooty?Are they all the same colour?
Re-fit plugs to caps,sit plugs on metal of rocker cover,press starter - cheack for spark on all plugs.DO NOT HOLD OR TOUCH PLUG/CAPS WHILST CRANKING-WARNING - HIGH VOLTAGE- CAN KILL.
I can also suggest a few common problems that bothered the v-stars/viragos.
They were notorious for open circuiting their spark plug caps on either cylinder.Having the coils tested will confirm this. If you have a multi meter let me know & i'll guide you through testing them.

Air leaking at the inlet manifolds-where they bolt to the cylinder-test this by spraying with wd type spray with engine running-if engine revs change-has air leaks(sucking in wd & affecting mixture.)
They even pop the carbies out at the front some times & **** air there.
The inlet manifolds also have hoses & plugs on them(for checking the carbie balance/vacume fuel tap)Check all these for splits & tears-common depending on the condition of the bike/milage/fuel used.
This will not solve your problem but may help you to isolate where your issue lies.


I hope this is somewhat helpful & I'm happy to help if you need after following these suggestions
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli











I hope that this is in some way helpfull.

Testimonial: "Thanks very much for that information. I plan to continue working on it this weekend, and I'll definitely use these ideas. Take care...Danny O."

SOURCE: Model 345 won't start. New

There is a vent in the tank, it is situated on the right hand side of the tank, close to where the fuel hose exits the tank, the early vent looks like a round white pellet, the later vent is a white plug with a nipple on the top, the later vent will just pull out with long nose pliers, the early vent has to be extracted useing a self tapping screw, this of course will destroy the vent.