Mitsubishi WD-73827 73" HDTV DLP TV Logo
Anonymous Posted on May 27, 2013

Keep blowing the main fuse.

Hi, I have this tv for like 4 years. and a few days back when i power on the tv, I noticed that the pedestal room fan lose power. 2 days later when watching a movie sound like a small explosion and the tv shutdown. the next day i opened the back of the tv and found the principal fuse blown, i replaced and when tried to powered on again it blew the fuse again. What could be the problem, the ballast, the light bulb or the power supply? any help will be appreciated.

1 Answer

The Knight

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  • Mitsubishi Master 76,851 Answers
  • Posted on May 28, 2013
The Knight
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To which circuit section did you replaced the fuse? Main power retulator? Just understand, the fuses are used to protect the circuit and TV from any short circuit or over voltage. Without any one of these, no fuse will blow up. If it was due to over voltage, the set should work after a fuse replacement. But here, the fuse blow up again, means, there is some thing shorted component/s. Check which component is shorted, and replace it, before replacing an other fuse. One more thing to say is, never insert a fuse other than specified. The voltage and ampere specification to fuse, will be marked at the circuit board, very near to the fuse clamp. Insert a fuse of same rating only. Using other fuse, rated higher ampere rating, might make things worse.

Testimonial: "hi, i unplug all connections from the power board and replaced the fuse and started powering the tv one connection at the time and when i connected the connector that goes to the ballast the fuse blew. without the ballast the the apparently powers on, all fan start to spin and have audio sound and in the front panel the indication blinks green. I think that the problem is the ballast. Do you think that this problem with the ballast could blew the bulb too?. thank and hope to hear from you soon."

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1030 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 08, 2008

SOURCE: TV suddenly shuts off and lamp light comes on, but lamp is OK

did you reset the lamp timer? just a guess

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Anonymous

  • 927 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 28, 2008

SOURCE: Red light came on tv , replaced lamp and still no picture

Good Day;

Bad news this TV has multi problems, check these:

1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116002). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116002) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See Service Tip VS-78A 9. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002) check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22, and C8F27 (16V 1000 UFD 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). Good Luck, big IRISH.
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Anonymous

  • 41 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 19, 2009

SOURCE: Mitsubishi 52725 52525 Red Light turns on

the problem might be the thermal sensor on the light engine. with all the work you have done on this i would suggest taking a look at the thermal sensor. these are known to go out.

Slinteriors

Sonny Berry

  • 8617 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 30, 2009

SOURCE: New bulb/TV still shuts down

Its far more likely the result of the power pwb capacitors that have failed. As the 34 code will appear if the capacitors fail on the Power PWB. You can get the V26 DLP Power repair kit at the following link.with free instructions
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/mitsubishi-v26-dlp-power-pwb-repair-kit/cName/repair-kits

freetek

Steve Allison

  • 5569 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 19, 2009

SOURCE: No power on 2002 Mitsubishi VS-60609

You've mad the right decison; fuses can fail due to metal fatigue as they flex a little each time current flows through them of ceases but a 2nd fuse is unlikely to fail instantly. This indicates a true problem.
If you found the fuse, it was probably located on the main power supply board and this item has likely failed.
Look for an assembly number on that board and call a Mitsu service company and inquire about repair or replacement cost. Either one can range from ~$75 to $150.
It would be interesting to know if the fuse blew as soon as the unit was plugged back in or only when you tried to turn it on with the remote or power button on the set.
If it blew only by plugging it in, that power board is the culprit. If it blew as you tried to turn it on, it could be a failed 2nd power supply for the CRTs that is often located separate from the main supply where the fuse was.
About any E-tech could ferret out the which of the two is at fault so you might consider having a pro do the repair but if you know the failure sequence you might choose to gamble on making the decision yourself.
Good luck-

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