20 Most Recent Hayward 250kbtu Ng Pool Heater - Inground - Page 3 Questions & Answers

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LO can mean several things: pressure switch fault or one of a few limit switch faults. All of these switches are found in the safety circuit. Your electronic unit does not have a pilot to light. If you are able, you will need to use a digital multimeter or analog meter to trouble shoot the circuit and identify which one of the switches is open and either fix the situation causing it to open or replace the switch if it is faulty. I would start with the pressure switch since it is the most common part to open and/or fail. The easiest first step would be to thoroughly clean your pump and filter system and see if the heater resumes operating normally. If not, check the pressure switch itself by jumping the two wires attached to it and see if the heater runs. BE SURE THE PUMP IS ON WHEN YOU DO THIS! If the pressure switch is ok inspect the three limit switches next. If you need a copy of the manual please contact me thru our site at www.arrowpools.net.

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John

There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the header. This is common on most of Hayward's in-ground pool heaters. Since you did not give your model Number, I can't say 100%. You can also check Hayward's website for the manual and look under "winterization". you should be able to find your product manual here: http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/products/manuals.cfm#HeatersGas_Heaters Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

Make sure you have no soot build up on your ignitor. It will conduct elect so you can hear a buzz instead of a clear spark. Without a clean spark it wont fire and for safty it shuts down to keep gas from building up in the cabnit.

I have the same heater and have been struggling with it since we purchased our house 6 years ago. I am very familiar with the "tapping" method and just this year learned that I could jump the TH connections to consistently get it to light. Finally that too became unreliable as the heater would shut off shortly after I jumped it. I used a voltmeter to test the millivoltage coming from the pilot generator (assembly) and found that it was only around 300mv, whereas supposedly 500mv is required to open the gas valve. Before investing $70-$100 on a replacement pilot assembly I decided to take it apart and see if it needed cleaning. There was a bit of buildup on the thermocouple that I removed with 150 grit sandpaper. I re-installed the pilot assembly, lit it, and retested the mv. I was disappointed to see that the millivoltage was still only around 300, but as I watched it began to rise until it eventually reached 500. I then turned the thermostat on and adjusted it until it was higher than the temp of water and the heater instantly turned on. So far so good....

Other than the drain you'll need to remove the pressure switch from its feeder tube and leave it hanging by its wires for the winter. Be sure the heater is level or tilted towards the header to allow all the water to drain out. More than a few people have lost a heat exchanger to freeze damage after draining it because the heater wasn't level and water remained in the low end of the tubes.

John

You need to find out what is bad in the string. The first thing to check is the pressure switch. Not so much the switch but clean the filter and baskets and check the impeller for a clog. These will let the pre sw shut the heater down. The second thing to check is the roll out switch. This is in the bottom of the cabinet on the fire wall just above the burners. It looks like a black sleeve on the wire that crosses the cabinet. It's a wax switch that melts and shuts the heater down if the fire rolls out the front of the heater. If this has gone bad you will need to find the reason it did and fix that or it will just do it again.
The other things on the string you just need to jump past and check, then replace the bad component. Good luck.

The thermistor is a variable resistance component, much like a volume control on a radio. It is not an on/off switch and can therefore not be bridged out as this will cause a shortcircuit. It is not recommended that you attempt to bypass the unit.
If you still want to try, bear in mind that damage to the control unit can occur which is an expensive replacement part. Use a potentiometer(from your local tv repairman or electronics shop) with a rating of 3 watt/1 kilo ohm. Connect the 2 red wires to the outer tabs of the pot and the black to the middle tab. Do not turn the pot to the full-on left or right position as this will cause a shortcircuit.

Temp sensor failure. The temp sensor should be screwed into the header near the plumbing and is wired in to the control panel ( where you raise or lower pool temp) Almost positive the wire is blk/red

If you unscrew the temp sensor and its corroded ( green) try cleaning it with a wire brush, if it still doesnt work, replace the sensor. Worst case, the new sensor doesnt work, that means the old sensor was fine and its the board that its plugged into thats bad. Not likely, but always possible... sensor is much cheaper then a board so go that route first.

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Could be a dirty or faulty ignition sensor. This is the sensor that tells the heater that there is a flame burning normally. If that sensor gets dirty or fails, the heater thinks there's no flame even though there is and cuts the gas as a safety measure. Cut the power, remove the cover, and check all the wire connections to be sure the leads are clean and dry and snug. The ignition sensor is near the bottom. If that doesn't work, then the sensor might be faulty rather than dirty. Call a tech to replace it.

Error code refers to communication error between the ingnition board and the display board. This can happen if, believe it or not, the unit gets wet - usually after a heavy rain. Cut the power at the breaker, remove the cover, and use a hairdryer to make sure the board and spaces behind the display panel are all dry. Ten minutes with the hairdryer should do it. Replace the cover, restore power. The error should be gone. If not, then possible that one of the boards is defective, in which case you'll need to call a tech.

Well, if you post the problem I might be able to help

The Pool Tech

CE= Communication Error between Control Module
and Display Interface Assembly
1. Disconnect and then reconnect power to heater.
2. Check for faulty wiring or connection.
Inspect Display Interface Wiring. Ensure Display Interface Plug is securely attached to Control Module. .
3. Control Module and/or Display Interface Assembly
are defective.Replace Control Module and/or Display Interface Assembly.
Here is a linkt oH aywardmanuals:
http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/products/manuals.cfm

more that likely,,, it wont do it any good,,,with nearly every thing being transistors,,it is very important that the polarity is right or the transistors burn out a shorted out wire will do the same thing,,,

I doubt it has a battery. . This unit generates the mv current necessary for temperature on off control with a thermopile. It looks like a typical thermocouple on any gas burner, but the probe connects to a little box with wires. IT is located WAY up inside. This supplies voltage to operate the main gas valve which is then controlled by the thermostat. The lighter included is just like a gas grill lighter. I suppose it could be converted to one with a battery. You can buy that grill lighter complete at Home Depot. These units are very difficult to reach to light the pilot light if the igniter isn't working. And you must hold the gas valve down quite some time for it to remain lit.

Temperature sensor failure code.Check the wiring on the sensor or might be a bad sensor. Here is the link for the heater manuals. This is a general code depending on Make and Model...

I would check voltage to the transformer and from the transformer. Either 120 or 240 VAC to the transformer and 24 VAC from the transformer. The co ntrol panel runs on the 24 VAC. The transformer should be located in the junction box on the heater where the external power is connected.

http://www.haywardnet.com/products/Manuals/pdfs/Manual285.pdf

this is the owners manual for the product your describing a problem with the wiring this includes an exploded view and labeling so you know what exactly each wire and part is doing what thereby finding exactly which component is causing the issue if you end up needing any assistance finding parts for this model we can also help with that


hope this helps
Robb

Sounds to me like you have an issue witht the thermostatic switch. There is a switch inside the unit that when the burner gets hot enough it will turn on the blower, it could also be something else, purhaps a thermostat wired wrong (if you have one) a bad relay, or something of that sort. It doesn't sound like a major deal if its firing up

Maybe, but unlikely. The amount of gas that is released to the pilot is pretty small. I assume the heater is outside, where the slightest breeze would blow the gas away. I also assume you are having trouble lighting the pilot and you are wondering if maybe there is no gas, since you can't smell it? It may take a few minutes of holding the button down before the pilot will light, and once it does, you may not be able to see the flame in the light of day. If you wait until dark (or at least dusk) you should be able to see the flame of the pilot more easily. And don't forget to hold the button down for a minute or two after it lights to be sure the thermocouple has had time to heat up. If you release the button and the pilot goes out, you probably didn't wait long enough, but it will re-light easily. I hope you find this helpful. Good luck.