20 Most Recent Jandy Lx Pool & Spa Heater - Electronic Dual Ignition - Lonox - 400,000 Btu - Natural Gas - Lx400n Questions & Answers

flame sensor, air flow restriction or blower not producing enough pressure. clean the flame sensor to start. inspect venting, etc

That will usually be when to much air comes into the chimney that results in the flame going out, or, the blower assembly is not good anymore which will result in less air flowing thru the boiler.

I solved the chimney issue with raising the chimney above my outside wall (if it isn

1) check the fuse on the transformer. You will get "low pressure" if the fuse is blown.
1a) remove front panel with flat head screw driver turning both big screws 1/4 turn clockwise
1b) look up under the 1 remaining front piece for 2 screws (one on each side). remove them and the 1 small panel slides down
1c) transform is directly in the center of this compartment
1d) red wire on transform has a black fuse case - twist open and check fuse (with an ohm meter it should read a dead short if it is working).
1e) if not working - replace with standard 250v 2a bus fuse.
2) it really is low pressure
2a) backwash pool or at least make sure pressure in filter take is not too high (high filter tank pressure == low water pressure in heater)
2b) if you have a bypass valve make sure it is not in bypass mode so most all pressure from the pump is going tothe heater
2c) right next to the transformer is the pressure switch. It has a small copper tube attached to the back and 2 wires in the front. Put an ohm meter across the two leads on this device. With the filter off it should be open, with the filter on it should be closed (short). If not either the copper tubing is clogged, the switch is faulty, or there is not enough water going through the heater. The amount of water that goes into the heater is adjustable and the water pressure switch is also adjustable. The owners manual explains how to adjust both but neither should need adjustment unless you have a special configuration (explained in the manual).

That would mean the high limit switch. Check it and see if you can reset it. It may have gone bad. Check first and if needed find a replacement part. Good luck...Lee

Usually under $100 and easy to replace. Comes with instructions. The tricky part is knowing which wires to connect so make a good diagram of the original to match up with the new in case the wire colors are different.

check strainer and skimmer for excess debris that will cause low flow to heater thus not engaging pressure switch.make sure filter is clean.if all of these check out ,take continuity reading on pressure switch.if no continuity,try to adjust pressure switch if it wont adjust ,its faulty.take extreme caution when adjusting make htr will shut down when pump goes off

The fuse link is a device that will open when over heated. If the exhaust temp is to high it will open and is a one time device. It can not be reset it must be replaced with a high temp fuse link made for the exhaust location. It will have a red mark on it indicating high temp. Low gas pressure can cause a lean fuel condition that may cause the exhaust temp to rise enough to trip the link. I would also check for scale inside the heat exchanger. Scale inside the heat exchanger will not allow for proper heat transfer to the water, this will cause excess heat to be present in the exhaust. Proper water balance and flow are very important.

If you have checked the circuit breakers and they appear to be functioning properly, here are a few other things you can try:

1. Check the GFCI outlet: If the AquaLink RS is plugged into a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlet, make sure the outlet hasn't tripped. You can do this by pressing the "reset" button on the outlet.
2. Check the transformer: The AquaLink RS requires 24 volts AC power to operate. If the transformer that converts your home's AC power to the 24 volts required by the AquaLink RS is faulty, it can cause the system to fail. Use a multimeter to test the transformer to ensure it's supplying the proper voltage.
3. Check the power supply: If the transformer is supplying the proper voltage but the AquaLink RS is still not receiving power, the power supply board may be faulty. Check the power supply board for any obvious signs of damage, such as bulging or leaking capacitors.
4. Check the wiring: It's possible that a wire has become loose or disconnected, preventing the AquaLink RS from receiving power. Check all of the wiring connections to make sure they're secure and tight.

If you're still unable to get power to the AquaLink RS, it may be time to call a professional pool technician to diagnose and repair the issue.

1. Check the air sensor: The first step is to locate the air sensor and check for any visible issues. Make sure it is properly connected and not damaged.
2. Check the wiring: If the air sensor appears to be in good condition, the problem may be with the wiring. Check the wiring for any loose connections or damaged wires. If you find any issues, you may need to repair or replace the wiring.
3. Check the control board: The control board is responsible for managing the various functions of the pool heater. If the control board is malfunctioning, it can cause the air sensor to short out. You can check the control board by testing it with a multimeter. If you suspect the control board is the problem, you may need to replace it.
4. Check the air intake: If the air intake is blocked or restricted, it can cause the air sensor to short out. Make sure the air intake is clear and unobstructed.

go into system set up and turn on on remote

see if hooked up with 4 wire from heater to aqualink if so try checking wires for one loose or off if ok try to use the firemans swith to pins 1 and 2 then heater button will work

bad display board

replace water sensor that goes from board to header

check the air switch hose make sure not pinched or hole in it then if ok make sure fan running correct speed

check with your local dealer . we have no clue

WERE I YOU I WOULD ASK THE HEATER COMPANY OR THE JANDY

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