Haier HLP23E Top Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check drive belt if ok possible cogs under agitator need to be replaced

Sounds like you have a bad timer.

if its an unbalance fault make sure the machine is level and not wobbly,if all good then you may need to fit a new set of suspension roads,P.S alot of machines have this problem on small loads

the water pump on a washing machine is nothing more that a water stirrer as the vanes are straight out the pump is full all the time and passes water if the hose is laid on the floor. the fact that it is not pumping indicates that it is not getting power at the right time. or the motor of the pump has malfunctioned O new pump) The over flowing machine indicates that the hose to the pressure switch ( what you turn for the water amount ) is blocked or has a hole in it With both problems combined it may be a faulty control board so have a washer machine mechanic have a look at it.

I would replace the pump impeller first!

Hi Lina, accordin to the Haier website, E4 stands for "water inlet problem. Water can not inlet or cannot reach the selected level in a proper time.". Unless the ingoing water pressure is really low, I think you need to service the machine. Anyway, hope this helps!

tub rubber is torn or cracked can be replaced but for cost u might buy a new washer

most of these machines have the sensor fitted either on the heater or just close to it remember the sensor is not very big and they are quite reliable check the heater hope this helps

You need to level it again. (the knobs on the bottom of it are threaded so you can adjust them to make them level, it can be time consuming, so it is best to start with the one that is shortest.

the belt may be broken for the spin moter

Had the same problem w/the water inlet w/initial installation. When the water inlet was hooked to the faucet and into the washer, water leaked on the washer end. The manual tells you to put a new "flat" washer (provided) in the washer machine water inlet, but water still leaked. It's actually the not flat washer, it's more of an "U" shape washer that goes into the washer machine water inlet and fits right over the filter in the water inlet valve. Leak was solved, but faucet was on and water was not filling in the drum. Turn power on, select cycle, water level, and press start and water should start filling the drum.

This E4 Phenomena means "no water":No or slow water fill (notreaching the full level in 15 min),therby computer sends display message "E4"Reasons:1) The house water tap is not open, or2) This is the most common E4 reason- The water inlet valve (that the hose is connected to) is blocked.3) The water pressure is too low and the flow is too weak.Solutions;1) Open the water tap, then push the START/PAUSE button again.2) Clean the water inlet valve. Shut off house water supply on the wall then, unscrew (lefty loosy) each hose from the house and the machine and look for a screen and clean the junk away from the screens. You may have 1 or 2 screens depending on the hose there may be 1 screen where the hose connects to the house and another screen inside the machine valve. Then, return hoses and turn on the water pressure again, Then push the START/PAUSE button again.3) Wait for the normal water pressure to return to the house before use.

Here's what I did that seemed to fix it. You know that plastic attachment you screwed onto the bottom? I'm pretty sure the noise is made by the bottom of the machine spinning against it. I thought the noise sounded sort of plastic-y, so I removed the bottom and sure enough, there were circular scratch marks on it. I haven't heard that annoying rattling yet.

maybe the pump motor is clogged check that pls.

Here's the user's manual: http://service.haieramerica.com/documents/User%20Manual%20XQBM22-C.pdfHere's the service tec manual: http://service.haieramerica.com/documents/WD-8888-72.pdf

Hey rosedunn i have the same problem :( ... So what you do with yours???thansk

Hi

It is a symptom of bad or faulty control panel. Unplug the machine for one minute and plug it back in.If it does the same thing you need to replace the control panel.Since the washer is new as you said,it is suggested to take it to the dealer as it is within warranty period.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept this "particular"suggestion. Thanks for contacting fixya.com

If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.

Check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
- If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
- If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Other issue, if your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
- The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. - The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. - A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) - The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. - The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. - The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. - The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Keep us updated.

Hi

You'll need to check for the water inlet hose, the water inlet valve and the pressure/water level switch assembly. Inspect the inlet hose coming to the washer for any blockages. If the hose is not clogged then check the water inlet valve for any clogs, if the water will not even fill for few seconds then certainly the water inlet valve is bad and should be replaced. You can also use a multimeter to check continuity on inlet valve. If you don't get any value on the multimeter then you'll need to replace the water inlet valve assembly. However, if the valve is fine then the pressure/water level switch assembly should be replaced. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.

Daniel

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(try following these checks!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
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If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C