GE refrigerators are usually very durable units. Since the light come on and there is a whirring noise inside the cabinet it is safe to assume that the unit has proper supply of power. The fridge not cooling can be as a result of 2 things the first being a bad control panel while the second being shortage of gas in the compressor. The control panel controls the units functions and when it goes bad depending on what is wrong with it the unit will stop cooling completely it acts as the brain of the unit and basically controls all that the unit does. The compressor on the other hand is the main engine of the fridges which turns gas around and freezes the inner compartments. When the quantity of gas inside the compressor is low then it will not be able to circulate gas properly therefore the unit would not get cold. Best get an expert to check the gas level in the compressor before ordering a replacement control panel if the gas is not the problem. Hope this solution has been helpful?
Usally when the water dispenser does not work but the ice maker does the problem is caused by a defective=> WR57X10032 Water Inlet Valve There are some things to test as seen in the Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Testing Video I will be here should you have questions, Thanks Sea Breeze
The first thing to check is the overall internal refrigerator temperature The proper temperature should be between 35 and 42 degrees. Here are some things to try:
If your refrigerator temperature is closer to 35 degrees, try turning the temperature up slightly. If you find that the temperature varies a lot from the top shelf to the bottom (where it is coldest), try putting produce and other sensitive products on a higher shelf.
If the temperature is too low and you can't make it warmer by adjusting the thermostat, you probably have a defective thermostat. If so, you need to replace it, because they cannot be repaired. You may test the defrost thermostat using the instructions below.
Test the Defrost Thermostat
Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer.
The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel.
The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced.
Other possible problems are a leak in the sealed (refrigerant) system, cold air migration (in side-by-side models) or a defective air damper. These problems can be quite difficult to locate and correct, we recommend you contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
