20 Most Recent Jenn-Air W30400P Stainless Steel Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

Four years ago I had this problem (display goes dim, then goes out altogether) and fixed it per this post: The circuit board for the display/touch panel is mounted on the back of the display panel itself and connected to the other circuit boards by two multipin connectors. When you remove the display panel (3 screws on top, 4 on the bottom) you will be able to GENTLY detach those connectors. They are low voltage and may be handled safety even when the oven is powered, but I agree that turning off the oven circuit breaker is good practice. To remove the circuit board, GENTLY release the two black plastic tabs; the solder pads are underneath. I too used a 100 mf capacitor because no local supplier had a 68 mf hi-temp. Observe polarity; the (-) lead goes towards the center of the board (away from the edge connector.) You must use a high-temperature capacitor (105 degrees C, I think) or the problem will recur. If your oven isn't put together the way mine is, this solution won't work - and I'm sorry to have taken your time.

I think that must be a design flaw with that model. I have one, and it does the same thing.

99% likelihood of a bad clock, part # 71001799. This is unfortunately very common with this model. Hope this helps!

There is a replacement display assembly, i think its around $150-$200. Its pretty easy to change if you are at all mechanically inclined. Good Luck!

Assume it is the round glass cover.
It is quite robust so use more pressure. Even tal with a piece of wood.

Hi,

Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go into the self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!!

This could a bad temperature sensor or a bad clock.(ERC).
Disconnect the power.
Remove the rear panel.
Unhook the temperature sensor wire and test the temp sensor with a volt/ohm meter set for ohms.
A plus/minus reading of 1100 ohms is good.
If temp sensor reads good replace the ERC(clock).

Here in this link you can find all the parts layout of your oven
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=45139&diagram_id=656588#d656588

The problem is with you main control board, this is the usual culprit, and this is why you have had no difference when you replaced the keypad, as it is NOT that but the Board that the KP, interfaces too. usually happens after a Power Outage.
http://www.apwagner.com/index.php?main_page=model_lookup&model_num=W30400W&model_id=33849&manufacturer=Jenn-Air
Please go here, to the link above, it has a wiring diagram, you may be able to sort you problem out using that.
http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Jenn-Air_W30400W
At above link are helpful documents to help repair.
To really do a proper job you really need a Service manual, however i was unable to find any free ones. This manual is essential for any repair.

many times this is a symptom of a bad oven sensor.its located on the back wall looks like a rod held on by two screws.if your lucky you can remove it into the oven sometimes you need to disconect the wires from the back.otherwise you may have a problem with the main board.try the sensor first.good luck! If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

HI, You will need to check the oven sensor wires that link the actual sensor to the main control board. Make sure that the contacts are connected properly, and not loose, or corroded. If all the wiring checks out, test the sensor for the correct resistance readings.(you will need a multimeter for this test)

The most common oven sensor should be approximately, 1100 ohms when at room temperature. The others may be close to as follows:

100°F - 1143 ohms
200°F - 1350 ohms
300°F - 1553 ohms
350°F - 1654 ohms
400°F - 1753 ohms
500°F - 1949 ohms

If the sensor test is adequate, and the wiring is Ok at the control, this will lead to a failed control board. replace the control in this case.

Sensor location

The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit.

Do you mean the service engineer replaced the hinges?
If so call him again and tell him he didn't fix it. The service engineer should come again and fix it for free if there's any justice in this world.

Double check the ground and bond wiring. Watch yourself because if the ground wires ARE faulty then you'll be the ground! This could be a very dangerous situation so if in doubt call in a real electrician.