Top 20 Whirlpool GS5SHGXKQ 25.3 Cu. Ft. Gold Side By Side Refrigerator, White (GS 5SHGXKQ, GS-5SHGXKQ) Questions & Answers

My water dispensor INSIDE the door froze up.... GE I payed a repair guy $75 to use MY BLOWDRYER to "thaw" the frozen water line INSIDE the freezer door (below the water dispenser). He said anytime the frozen food extends over the freezer shelf and touches the freezer door for a long enough period of time, the water line inside the door FREEZES!!PREVENTION: "Keep some airspace between the door and frozen food."

HI,IF THE ICE MAKER IS LEAKING WATER HAVE TO BE REPLACE IF YOU CAN REPLACED ICE MAKER AND THE SELENOIDE WATER VALVE TO REPAIR PROBLEMS..

you may have two water filters, one in the back of your refrigerator tied in between the house line and

your refrigerator, you may have this if you have hard water and no water softner. but there is also one

on the refrigerator itself, it has a base water cartridge either located behind the grille, or may have a slot

in the grille. located below the freezer compartment door. if it is thru the grill rotate counter clockwise

and pull out, some water will spill, it should have a number on it, just remember when getting

any kind of parts, you will need make and model number, serial number and part number, if you do not

have the part number, so long as you have the rest and take the part with you, they can match it up.

if you need more info you can go to appliance pros.com and you can download a parts diaghram

for your appliance and any instructions. they will also carry the part you need. good luck!

The E1- F5 error is a door lock error.

The control (TIMER) has likely failed in this instance - BUT...

Sometimes when you disconnect power to a range and reconnect it the electronic range control gets confused.
You should disconnect power again for 15 seconds and reconnect and see if that helps.

If it doesn't cure the E1- F5 error hold the bake button in until E0- F2 appears in the display.
This is the error for a stuck button on the keypad and is the way to clear the memory of the electronic range control.

Sometimes these work, but if the control has failed it won't make any difference.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.D@#$

Hi,
Here are some basic tips for ice maker troubleshooting...

Ice Maker Problems and Ice Maker Troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3876071-ice_maker_problems_ice_maker

heatman101

With ice makers it is almost always one of two things. The ice maker itself, or the water valve (valve is located on the backside of the frig, bottom right hand side almost 100% of the time). Figuring out which one is easy, and I will help explain.

First thing is the frig has to be cold enough for the ice maker to even start working. I'm assuming we have the cold part taken care of. Next, the machine will start a cycle and ask for water. Here is where the valve comes in. The ice maker energizes the valve and it opens allowing water to rush up the back of the frig and into the ice maker. After the ice freezes the ice maker goes into harvest and dumps the ice.

In conclusion, you either have an ice maker that stalled at some point during that cycle (in which case you need a new ice maker). Or the water valve is not opening, thus no water enters the ice maker and you get zero ice.

Quick facts: If you have ice in the ice maker and it is not dumping, you need a new ice maker. If it is empty, you have to either wait for it to ask for water or manually advance the ice maker into cycle so you do not have to wait.

At this point you will hear the water valve energize or not. If it never energizes, the ice maker is not working right, if it energizes and you get squat, the valve needs to be replaced.

If you have experience with a multimeter you could detach the harness going to the ice maker and simply hook up your leads. When the ice maker asks for water, you should get 110v reading on the meter. If you do, the valve is bad and needs to be replaced.

If I can be of any further assistance please let me know. good luck!

Oh, and the valve probably sells for between $50 and $100 depending on where you buy it. The ice maker should run between $100 and $180.

you can buy a little pressure pump similar to what r.v.'s use but 110 volt a.c. instead of 12 volt d.c. for about 80 bucks.

This may not be the problem now but by the sound of the overworked electronics, it could be in the future. The start device on some models of refridgerator for maytag and whirlpool have been recalled. If your appliance was manufactured in the last 5-10 years you may be having an issue with this component. Mine recently caught on fire at this device that is located near the compressor. If you would like to be a part of the petition for a recall on this appliance contact me at [email protected]

Hello

In the freezer section. Behind the lower rear wall is the coils and just below that is a drain. If you will remove any ice and use a coat hanger or screw driver to push down through that hole you should be able to get it unclogged. Take a small cup of water to verify that you have it unstopped and your done.

#225 in the drawing.
I hope this helps.

Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3876071-ice_maker_problems_ice_maker

heatman101

Change out your evaporator fan motor in the freezer, and while you're at it, toss out any frozen zombie heads you might have stored in your freezer, just to play it safe.

Sounds like you have a blocked water filter.
Try replacing it.

cleaning it. something keeps water from running down wich freezes in the hose

chenge your valve. its leaking

msure da coils on back is not dirty

The likely culprit is the door switch on fridges in general. This because it is basically the only moving part in the circuit. Depending on it's location, it may be subjected to condensation, extremes of temperatures or even spilled liquids that dry and become sticky - resulting in the switch not popping out when the door is opened. Also inspect the light bulb socket itself for dampness or white, flaky dust-like particles. Do NOT attempt to clean the socket while the fridge is plugged in. These last two possibilities should be checked first, as the others are a little more involved.

If the door switch pops out with the door open - it means the internal workings of the switch are probably bad, or may be something else entirely. Locating the problem will require disconnecting the power cord and disassembling parts of the fridge in order to gain access to the switch terminals and related wiring. In the case of dampness or other debris in the light socket, it can be wiped clean now that the fridge is unplugged. Try a new bulb in the socket and plugging the fridge back in before proceeding. A meter and understanding of electrical test equipment along with the fridge's service manual will be needed to continue from here with the fridge unplugged again.

Even without a meter (and the rest of the items listed above) you could simply remove and replace the switch if it is suspect - and hope that it was the cause of the failure. Pay attention to orientation of the switch, any clips, screws or fasteners holding the switch in place. Disconnect wiring only after sketching or photographing the switch and the wires that are connected to each of the terminals. Remove and replace the switch and wiring. Plug back in and test the light.

Good luck - I hope this was helpful!

Hi, Under normal operation the middle bar will be quite warm and under heavy load or higher ambient temperature's sometimes hot, yes it is normal. It is most noticeable following a defrost cycle, new "thawed" item's being placed in the freezer section ( or following someone standing there with the door opened for a lomg time trying to figure out what they want...i.e. my son. lol) and also very hot summer day's.(depending on your geography obvioisly). It is a means in which the manufacturer's has designed to prevent condensation from building in the area commonly referred to as a "perimeter heater/loop". Hope that help's and if so please rate the answer you received from me here at fixya. Thank you andgood luck. macmarkus :)

Has it stopped completely or just slowed to a trickle. If a trickle you need to replace the filter. If stopped either the feed line to the fridge has been pinched/shut off or the internal line has frozen, or the valve is no longer functional.

Either the inlet valve is stuck or the icemaker solenoid is shored.

Most likely the second one.


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You have a defrost timer that has possibly slowed down because it is defective. I need you to time the defrost timer or turn the defrost timer inside the fresh food compartment until the refrigerator compressor stops running. It should remain off for about 20 minutes. If a lot longer and the refrigerator does not defrost regularly about 3 times a day then it needs to be replaced. Yes there could be something other than the timer, but if you need my help I'm here let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze

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