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Lfx25971 will not dispense water
My water dispensor INSIDE the door froze up.... GE
I payed a repair guy $75 to use MY BLOWDRYER to "thaw" the frozen water line INSIDE the freezer door (below the water dispenser).
He said anytime the frozen food extends over the freezer shelf and touches the freezer door for a long enough period of time, the water line inside the door FREEZES!!
PREVENTION: "Keep some airspace between the door and frozen food."
on Jun 08, 2012
Our water and ice taste terrible, what should we
you may have two water filters, one in the back of your refrigerator tied in between the house line and
your refrigerator, you may have this if you have hard water and no water softner. but there is also one
on the refrigerator itself, it has a base water cartridge either located behind the grille, or may have a slot
in the grille. located below the freezer compartment door. if it is thru the grill rotate counter clockwise
and pull out, some water will spill, it should have a number on it, just remember when getting
any kind of parts, you will need make and model number, serial number and part number, if you do not
have the part number, so long as you have the rest and take the part with you, they can match it up.
if you need more info you can go to appliance pros.com and you can download a parts diaghram
for your appliance and any instructions. they will also carry the part you need. good luck!
on Apr 09, 2011
No water hook-up
you can buy a little pressure pump similar to what r.v.'s use but 110 volt a.c. instead of 12 volt d.c. for about 80 bucks.
on Oct 24, 2010
Activated the self-clean function. When it was
The E1- F5 error is a door lock error.
The control (TIMER) has likely failed in this instance - BUT...
Sometimes when you disconnect power to a range and reconnect it the electronic range control gets confused.
You should disconnect power again for 15 seconds and reconnect and see if that helps.
If it doesn't cure the E1- F5 error hold the bake button in until E0- F2 appears in the display.
This is the error for a stuck button on the keypad and is the way to clear the memory of the electronic range control.
Sometimes these work, but if the control has failed it won't make any difference.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.D@#$
on Oct 01, 2010
Food in refrigerator is freezing
This may not be the problem now but by the sound of the overworked electronics, it could be in the future. The start device on some models of refridgerator for maytag and whirlpool have been recalled. If your appliance was manufactured in the last 5-10 years you may be having an issue with this component. Mine recently caught on fire at this device that is located near the compressor. If you would like to be a part of the petition for a recall on this appliance contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org
on Jun 10, 2010
Ice maker stopped making ice...no water coming
With ice makers it is almost always one of two things. The ice maker itself, or the water valve (valve is located on the backside of the frig, bottom right hand side almost 100% of the time). Figuring out which one is easy, and I will help explain.
First thing is the frig has to be cold enough for the ice maker to even start working. I'm assuming we have the cold part taken care of. Next, the machine will start a cycle and ask for water. Here is where the valve comes in. The ice maker energizes the valve and it opens allowing water to rush up the back of the frig and into the ice maker. After the ice freezes the ice maker goes into harvest and dumps the ice.
In conclusion, you either have an ice maker that stalled at some point during that cycle (in which case you need a new ice maker). Or the water valve is not opening, thus no water enters the ice maker and you get zero ice.
Quick facts: If you have ice in the ice maker and it is not dumping, you need a new ice maker. If it is empty, you have to either wait for it to ask for water or manually advance the ice maker into cycle so you do not have to wait.
At this point you will hear the water valve energize or not. If it never energizes, the ice maker is not working right, if it energizes and you get squat, the valve needs to be replaced.
If you have experience with a multimeter you could detach the harness going to the ice maker and simply hook up your leads. When the ice maker asks for water, you should get 110v reading on the meter. If you do, the valve is bad and needs to be replaced.
If I can be of any further assistance please let me know. good luck!
Oh, and the valve probably sells for between $50 and $100 depending on where you buy it. The ice maker should run between $100 and $180.
on May 30, 2010
Whirlpool side by side refrigerator laeking form
In the freezer section.
Behind the lower rear wall is the coils and just below that is a drain.
If you will remove any ice and use a coat hanger or screw driver to push
down through that hole you should be able to get it unclogged. Take a
small cup of water to verify that you have it unstopped and your done.
in the drawing.
I hope this helps.
on May 29, 2010
Inside refrigirator light stopped work. Bulb is
The likely culprit is the door switch on fridges in general. This because it is basically the only moving part in the circuit. Depending on it's location, it may be subjected to condensation, extremes of temperatures or even spilled liquids that dry and become sticky - resulting in the switch not popping out when the door is opened. Also inspect the light bulb socket itself for dampness or white, flaky dust-like particles. Do NOT attempt to clean the socket while the fridge is plugged in. These last two possibilities should be checked first, as the others are a little more involved.
If the door switch pops out with the door open - it means the internal workings of the switch are probably bad, or may be something else entirely. Locating the problem will require disconnecting the power cord and disassembling parts of the fridge in order to gain access to the switch terminals and related wiring. In the case of dampness or other debris in the light socket, it can be wiped clean now that the fridge is unplugged. Try a new bulb in the socket and plugging the fridge back in before proceeding. A meter and understanding of electrical test equipment along with the fridge's service manual will be needed to continue from here with the fridge unplugged again.
Even without a meter (and the rest of the items listed above) you could simply remove and replace the switch if it is suspect - and hope that it was the cause of the failure. Pay attention to orientation of the switch, any clips, screws or fasteners holding the switch in place. Disconnect wiring only after sketching or photographing the switch and the wires that are connected to each of the terminals. Remove and replace the switch and wiring. Plug back in and test the light.
Good luck - I hope this was helpful!
on Dec 23, 2009
Middle bar hot
Under normal operation the middle bar will be quite warm and under heavy load or higher ambient temperature's sometimes hot, yes it is normal. It is most noticeable following a defrost cycle, new "thawed" item's being placed in the freezer section ( or following someone standing there with the door opened for a lomg time trying to figure out what they want...i.e. my son. lol) and also very hot summer day's.(depending on your geography obvioisly).
It is a means in which the manufacturer's has designed to prevent condensation from building in the area commonly referred to as a "perimeter heater/loop".
Hope that help's and if so please rate the answer you received from me here at fixya.
Thank you andgood luck.
on Dec 07, 2009
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