20 Most Recent Amana ACF4225AS Electric Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

Elaine, Not usually unless you have a loose connection there. Unplug the power cord and check to make sure your connections are tight. While you have it unplugged, look and feel around the bake element to see if it is smooth all the way around the element. If you find anyplace where it looks or feels like it has bubbled out, you have a bad element and it needs replaced. Also, if that checks out okay and you have access to a multimeter and know how to use it, you can check continuity on your element to see if it is bad. Hope this helps!

The hot indicator light will stay on until the burners cool down. If they are cool and the light has not shut off, there is a short in the light or the main circuit board.

Although I am not an appliance repairman, I have an extensive background in repairing a variety of electrical/electronic equipment.It helps to understand the physics at work in the oven...heat. The heating element gets very hot, turning to a red glow during the cooking process. Metal, such as copper wiring, expands when heated. Screw terminations near the heating element would work loose (due to the heating and cooling cycles) over time and begin to arc, which would eventually destroy the connection. Therefore, the wiring is probably crimped on to the heating element.There are two probably solutions. One- cut the wires at the heating element and attach the new element with crimp sleeves rated for the oven heat. Two- follow the wires to their termination point in the back of the unit and disconnect them. This will probably be screw connections. This requires a new heating element with the corresponding wires.CAUTION: UNPLUG THE RANGE UNIT OR TURN OFF THE POWER AT THE BREAKER PANEL PRIOR TO MAKING CONTACT WITH ANY ELECTRICAL COMPONENT.

Hi there,
Most likely the door for your kitchen range has a sensor that is not allowing it to heat up because it detects that the door is not closed.
I would suggest you consult help from a certified technician by the manufacturer of your Kitchen range that way they would also be able to check other possible faults on your kitchen range and replacement parts would be 100% compatible.

You can also check the services that these guys offer:
http://www.stoverepairnearyou.com/ml2/?v=1640662349&u=08E0B192DFA88BAA0210818080F80718DDA9032090DEAEEC8F8CA8CFC401

Hope this helps!

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Hi,

Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...

Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..

Self Cleaning Oven Problem

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have usedthe self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks


ff

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you to understand what is happening there...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

This is for a Whirlpool F1 code, but that code means the same on virtually all brands. Try this:
You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad. Here is the procedure for determining your problem.

1. Disconnect power to stove
2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire apx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
5. Turn power back on to stove.
6. Watch for codes and listen for the beep.
7. If you get a code and beep, replace the ERC.
8. If after apx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
   NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part.

your bake element should get red during the preheat time and also if you leave the door open after it has preheated.
if it is not that will cause your oven to not heat right.
even if it looks ok, it could still be bad.
unplug the oven and remove the bake element, then take it to your local parts house and they can check it for you.
this is the most common problem, but it could be a problem with your oven control. try the element first.

For the model range you have this question listed under, it uses a 40 watt clear applaince bulb that you can purchase at any hardware store. If you wish to order on line, you can purchase a bThe part number is 8009 if you wish to order on line

http://www.applianceaid.com/fault_codes.html

Either the element or the control panel is most likely faulty. If it is the panel, you may just want to get another oven. You can get the parts and manual from repairclinic.com

Can you please give some more detail to assist you better

U wud certainly taste it if that happend. Plastic not toxic if eaten..only if burned and emits fumes

i would first try the breaker it sounds like you only have half the power coming to unit and the light and clock will work but the heating componets will not as they require the full 220-245 volts
it sounds very odd that everything as far as burners and elements are out but you have a clock display and light... you have lost one of the legs of power somehow...either the double breaker is not fully on and may require turning off oven breaker and resetting or half the breaker has failed... a sure way of testing would be to pull out and with a volt meter test to see that you have 220-245 volts coming to oven,,, hope this helps out repost if anymore questions...

bad ignitor