Top 20 Maytag MMV4205 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Here's a link where I found this manual. http://www.manualslib.com/manual/294915/Maytag-Mmv4205.html#manual

try e spares on the internet

I would open it up and look at the connections to see if any can be replaced. Look for any darkened or burned looking connectors related to the display panel. Hopefully you won't need to replace the display panel circuit board but if you do. I would look for the cheapest replacement starting with ebay parts, and search engines for that specific part. Sometimes there are microwaves of different models with the same parts too!

We would need to know the full model number from the tag in the cooking cavity or elsewhere on the microwave, such as the door frame, controller frame, etc.Please post a new help request with that and more detailed symptoms, such as when it occurs.

check to see if the power from the wall socket is there. Plug in a lamp or somthing. If it works, then the microwave burned out an internal fuse, or curcuit board.

If the oven is dead - no display, no beeps when you press a pad on the keypad, and no inside light when you open the door - then I would suggest that you very the outlet is okay under load.A hair dryer or toaster are the best ways the average DIYer can test the outlet under load.If that's good, then your microwave may be dead due to a blown fuse, magnetron thermostat, or oven cavity thermostat.There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. If the fuse and magnetron thermostat are good, then you will have to take the oven down from the wall to get to and test the oven thermostat.You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

It is more than likely the magnetron is fried, to replace fuse! unplug microwave oven, remove top, "several screws" look to the right to the keypad control board, look down to a printed circuit board, clipped fuse should be near by, pop it out and replace with same current rating, assemble before testing, "lethal voltages present"

You can find handy exploded views and order parts by model number here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

It's usually a weak VFD tube, but in some cases it may be that the rear of the display window and front of the display glass are very dusty. Sometimes you can clean it inside to brighten it up a bit. At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. Then you can detach the keypad connector (as per photo below) then remove the control panel screws. Be careful not to crack the glass display when handling it, or it's a goner. Then you can use a soft cloth (not a paper towel) and a mild cleaner (not ammonia-based) to clean the front surface of the VFD display glass and the rear side of the clear bezel (display window) that's attached to the keypad. Direct spraying of cleaners on the controls or keypad (and steam from the cooktop) can damage the controls. I always recommend that you spray non-ammonia cleaner on a soft cloth (not a paper towel which can scratch) and gently wipe the keypad. Some connectors have a lock. If that cleaning didn't help, then you have a weak VFD. On this model, the VFD is not available separately, so you would have to order a new control circuit board for it. You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts here. I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

I understand based on your initial post you have Maytag MMV4205 microwave you want to access the location of the fuse, correct ? I don't know if you know or if it matters, but this unit is built by Samsung...as many Maytag electronics/appliances are.

Most microwave's also have several types of fuses aside from being in the different location's (depending on if it is a "line" fuse, a "thermal" fuse etc). On this unit there are 2 fuses on what is called a "filter board" or "noise supression board" as shown here.

example:



As you can see there are two fuses, but the one you should focus amd check is the one NOT identified as HVT fuse...but the other just indentifies as 250V fuse 20A, that is the line "in" fuse.

The unit in question will indeed need to be removed from your cabinets so please be cautious and unplug the unit before removal and the cover of the microwave remove to access this component unfortunately.

I've posted three separate links below that hopefully will help in identifying the parts of your microwave and what's what, the second link is the part supplier...one of many, the thirs is the later option of just the fuse.

I would shop around as I alluded to since the fuse itself can be had for a couple of dollars or so separately and it should be all you need. Just be sure it is rated at 250v - 20Amp. and is of the slow blow type shown.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Microwave-Parts/Model-MMV4205BAB14/3048/0123370?searchedModel=MMV4205&blt=11

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/samsung-assy-item-number-ap4237587.aspx?pn_=DE96-00400B

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Line-Fuse/14QBP20CSB/757868

Let me know how you make out and good luck. I'll wait for you reply and then help in any manner I can going forward if necessary.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

The one thing you have not mentioned is the high voltage capacitor that is part of the high voltage section, this part does fail and in some cases causes a load on the supply line making the microwave buzz or blow the line fuse killing the power to the oven.

The loud noise and no heat means that the magnetron has failed. It the part that generates the microwaves that heat the food. When it fails it shorts out, causing the transformer to heat up. That is what was causing the burning smell. The cost of a replacement magnetron is around $130-150 range so it may not make sense to have it fixed.

did it come into contact with water at anytime, if yes than this is probably the reason ask an electrician to come and have a check or if it is working fine you can continue using but make sure that no liquid will spill over inside

The word --SE-- means systems error, caused by a short in the keypad membrane. The solution is replace the keypad to resume normal operation.

Hi, am afraid it sounds like the power control module is bad. The new module retails for about $155, APP has it for $129. You can try replacing the module, or purchase a new microwave. Over the range microwaves start at about $280-$350 and can go up to $1000 depending on brand/features. Microwave installation is typically $35-$50.

Hi,

Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

Basic Microwave Oven Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

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The handles run about $25-35 here.

Here are the part numbers & descriptions:

W10279351 Black handle
W10279353 White handle
W10279355 Bisque handle

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

It sounds like the magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT

This is a job for a professional but if you are safety clued up, here's instruction.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 or moving coil meter on high resistance range for short circuit, (DVM's won't show the fault!), the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

Load test.

A simple safety test.
Place 1/2 litre of water in a glass container. Measure the temperature of the water.
Place in microwave and heat on full power for 1minute.
Measure the temperature after it has stood for 1minute.
If the temperature difference is more than 9 degrees Celcuis the magnetron is working and producing about 700Watts of heat.
If your microwave is labelled with 900 or 1000Watts. That is about right.
If the temperature is less then the magnetron is not working properly and may need replacing.

This a only a rough guide and any doubts you should consult an authorised service agent.

Hi,

Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

Basic Microwave Oven Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

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Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

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