20 Most Recent
Whirlpool GBD307PR Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers
Why is display blank?
You may need new capacitors on your display board, if it is expensive you can have it rebuilt
4/22/2016 3:54:42 PM •
Whirlpool...
•
Answered
on Apr 22, 2016
Auto clean problem
You say you checked the thermal fuse but did you check the broil element for continuity. Most ovens use the broil element for the clean function. The thermal fuse will shut off both the bake and the broil element.
3/2/2014 4:29:22 PM •
Whirlpool...
•
Answered
on Mar 02, 2014
Received E6 and F2 code. repair man replaced the
Hello & Welcome to FixYa
F2-E6 error code indicates an open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the temp.sensor needs replacement. If you want to be sure then before replacing the sensor you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then 1120 ohms then it needs replacement however, if the reading is between 1080-1120 ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. However, after reading your problem it seems that the sensor is causing this and replacing it is recommended repair. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
Kevin
3/20/2013 7:22:09 PM •
Whirlpool...
•
Answered
on Mar 20, 2013
I have a Whirlpool double
Strange, I would have thought it was the thermostat (temp sensor as you call it).... It may be the actual electric portion of the control panel itself malfunctioning... There is not much behind the control panel that could buzz aside from the control panel itself.
Check out the part I believe you need here, this site is really handy for this type of thing:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5132068&diagram_id=930365#d930365
It is number 6 on that list there... the CNTRL-ELEC they call it. You sound very capable so I would say try and replace that, I bet it'll fix it right up!
Tim
10/1/2010 4:40:42 AM •
Whirlpool...
•
Answered
on Oct 01, 2010
Hotpoint BS22 oven.
My guess is it is the element gone again, to be certain , you need have it tested with a meter, if it is o/k, then it could be the thermostat, or perhaps a bad connection.
Please rate my solution.
Thanks.
11/11/2009 3:48:26 PM •
Whirlpool...
•
Answered
on Nov 11, 2009
Whirlpool YWFE710H0BS0 oven no longer heats up.
Check the elements for continuity with a multimeter. Sometimes the connectors draw too much current and can burn out as well. Both are easy tests. A runaway temperature can make elements fail because there is no thermostatic control, they just glow bright yellow..
What does E1 F2 code means?
Greetings,
This might indicate a bad keypad or that the cable connecting the keypad to the chip board within your whirlpool has come loose. You might need to work with whirlpool to see if they keypad needs replacing or if the internal chip board itself is faulty.
Thank you.
I Have a whirlpool gold accurate system microwave /oven combo
Self cleaning and broiler is not working . Regular oven works . There are no error messages . What is causing this
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.
Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
Not finding what you are looking for?